Typically the removal and disposal of that type of asbestos containing material is not regulated by EPA (even commercially) if it is in good condition. If the material can be taken up with no significant breakage, there is little risk for fiber release.

A little late at this point. If it was removed by a non-asbestos removal professional, you may have created an air quality issue for you and those workers. To bring a little piece of mind, you might want to test. If it is positive, then it would make sense to have a professional asbestos abatement company come in a clean the area.

Asbestos has been used in most 9’ X 9’ tiles, some 12’ X 12’ tiles and in some of the mastics used to glue the floor tiles down. The only way to tell for sure if something contains asbestos is to have it analyzed by a laboratory accredited to do this type of analysis. For more information on accredited laboratories, go to that topic on our Related Asbestos Links page.

We have two options to cover asbestos floor tile. First, our PolyEncase GE-50 is a fast setting, high performance aromatic polyurea, perfect for use on walk on surfaces and heavy traffic areas. The second option is the use of AsbestoSafe® TopCoat, if the old flooring will then be covered over with carpeting, wood flooring, tile or linoleum. AsbestoSafe® and PrepLESS Primer? have been fully tested for use over asbestos-containing materials.

There are a number of requirements that need to be followed. They pertain to type and quantity of material and to the removal process. For more detailed information click on Handling Asbestos Floor Tile and Roofing Materials.

The only sure way to find out if there is asbestos in any product is to take a sample of the product and have it analyzed by a NVLAP approved lab. Advanced Environmental has qualified and licensed inspectors and can take a sample and send it to an approved lab for you.

Our technicians do not install floor tile, but we can recommend and coordinate with tile contractors to give your bathroom a completely new look.

Made of natural raw materials such as linseed-oil, trees resins, wood powders, calcareous powders, dyes, cork, cork powders and rolled on a jute base. The oxydation process must be considered in order to point out the natural features of linoleum, as follows: during the drying-up time, the linoleum changes its colour temporarily. Basically, all types of linoleum have, first, the typical yellow shades, which are mostly noticeable in the light colours.

No. The material is very slippery due its granular nature and chemistry of the material and could be dangerous when used in this situation. These surfaces do not lend themselves to holding the material like carpet would and we would not be able to warrant it for a year in this situation.

Yes, it is possible. However, there are some conditions which must be adhered to. Existing floors must be overlayed with at least WBP grade plywood. However, marine ply is best. It must have a minimum thickness 19mm, screwed down (not nailed) at 150mm centres. All timber surfaces should be primed on the reverse side and all edges. It is essential that one uses powdered adhesive with a latex additive when tiling onto plywood.

Yes, when proper installation methods are followed. Exterior applications require special precautions and installation methods. Do not install floor tile on exterior walls unless the product specifically recommends this application.

Ceramic tile in either glazed or unglazed form do not need to be sealed. These products are impervious to moisture and topical sealers will not properly adhere to them. Also, you can not change or alter the appearance or the sheen of a ceramic tile by adding a sealer. Therefore, a sealer in not recommended for glazed and unglazed surfaces.

Tile mosaics are a wonderful, lively addition that complements the appearance of your pool. They can be selected and ordered upon your visit to choose waterline tile.

No, we do not recommend doing this, as a wall is generally a P.E.I. 1 tile, that is it has a very low wearing and will not last very long.

Wall tiles are generally more porous, which helps with their adhesion to walls, the glaze is used more for the appearance, and is resistant to detergents etc. On the contrary, floor tiles have low porosity, with low to medium water absorption, which will give them better technical characteristics, as the glaze is more than the look, it is also used to prevent wear and promote scratch resistance.

We would prefer that you did not. Floor heating systems are professionally installed through our trained personnel.

Water and oil will bead up on your floor when sealed as recommended in our Installation Specification Guide. You need only mop it up with a sponge. For routine cleaning vacuum or sweep it, as you would any other natural stone floor or a wood floor. To wipe up, use a non-acid based cleaning product. Warm, soapy water is also fine. AquaMix makes a tile cleaning product, Concentrated Stone & Tile Cleaner, which can be used on your floor. Check their website at www.aquamix.

If the structure of the counter is strong enough to support the weight of the heavier floor tile, then this should be fine.

A tile, whether it be ceramic, porcelain or natural stone is usually a good retainer of heat. Therefore it can often be the warmest floor in your home or building. It depends on the air temperature under the floor and the exposure to sunlight etc. Under-floor heating is a good option to warm your floor but it???s real intention is to provide an efficient, effective heating solution that gives you comfort throughout your home, therefore fulfilling your complete heating requirement.

You can use a two part ???rubber based or latex modified??? flexible adhesive to tile directly onto the timber. (Ensure the product chosen is manufactured specifically for this purpose). The timber will need to be clean and stable. (You will need to confirm floor joists and spans will be acceptable). This option is best suited when there are concerns of adding extra height to the existing floor and/or in smaller areas not subject movement or high traffic.

No paint must be removed off of a concrete floor before tile can be applied. Removal of Paint can be done by scraping it or a shot blaster machine.

If the floor is cracked it is advisable to use an anti-fracture membrane, otherwise cracks may transmit through the tile. Also as stated in question #2 you cannot tile over a painted concrete floor.

Do not use household dust treatment chemicals on the tile. Use a vinyl floor cleaner and separate finish. Both must be water-based. Vacuums: Do not use a beater brush on a vinyl floor. Use the proper solid floor attachment for vacuuming. NO WAX! Do not wax a vinyl floor. All of our vinyl flooring contains a no-wax finish. The flooring is non-porous and will not absorb wax. It will build up and collect even more dirt.

Yes. However, tile will not bond directly to a wood floor. We recommend the following methods to prepare your wood floor for tile installation: Install Schluter Ditra, from Schluter Systems, with a latex thinset. Then install the tile using a non-latex thinset.

Yes. If the old tiles are high-gloss, we recommend sanding them down first to increase bonding strength. Then use a high-strength latex thinset to install the new tile.

No. Wall tile has a lower breaking strength than floor tile. By installing wall tile on floors, you run the risk of the tile cracking or breaking over time.

Asbestos refers to a group of naturally occurring minerals that have long been known to have useful properties such as strength, flexibility, and heat resistance. These minerals are essentially a type of stone that can be woven into fabric and used in construction materials.

I have heard that Vermiculite can contain asbestos. How do I handle it and is it dangerous to have in my house? When do you need to inspect a building for asbestos? All structures must be inspected for the presence of asbestos prior to renovation or demolition, with the exception of a single, residential structure with 4 or fewer dwelling units. Back to top I am demolishing or renovating a relatively new building.