No. Mastic is best used for wall tile, especially in high-humidity areas. For most floor installation, we recommend latex thinset.

It is preferred to use a thin set mortar for floors, but in residential use, you can use mastic with tile up to 6x6 on floors. Of you are installing tile in an area that is going to be exposed to water conditions, use a mastic that is water-proof so that it will hold up well. This is very important. If you are applying floor tile in areas not exposed to water you can use a mastic that is not water-proof. Epoxy adhesives are also available but their drying times can be difficult to control.

Ceramic tile can be bonded to ceramic tile with a polymer modified thinset BUT your installation will only be as good as the weakest tile in the old installation.

Mastic is not recommended for installation of glass mosaic tile, particularly in wet areas such as showers. Bond strengths are lower than those of recommended setting materials. Mastic does not properly cure when used with impervious materials such as glass and may yellow behind clear or translucent tile. Yes. Our glass tile can be installed on the outside of a fireplace surround. A setting material company should be consulted, for advice about which tile setting material to use. No.

Layout - My husband is having trouble with the layout/cuts in the ceramic tile for our tub/shower area. There is an uncentered window in the primary wall. He keeps saying "no matter how I figure it, I still end up with 1/2" gap at the top of wall". Is there any way you can tell him what he's doing wrong? Thanks SOOO MUCH! Exterior Chimney - Do you have any information on tiling the exterior of a stucco chimney? Below freezing in winter.

Depending upon the type of system you have, it is usually possible to install ceramic over radiant heat floors. Some applications will require a membrane in between the tile and subfloor. Ask your contractor what is best for you. One of the rubs against ceramic tile is that it is cold and hard. There are floor heating systems available to make your floor more comfortable to the touch, but in terms of hardness, yes, ceramic is much like hardwood in that it doesn’t have much give.

Yes. However, we recommend unglazed, frost proof tiles for outdoor use. Look for tiles with absorption rates of 0.5% or less.

We would prefer that you did not. Floor heating systems are professionally installed through our trained personnel.

No. Wall tile has a lower breaking strength than floor tile. By installing wall tile on floors, you run the risk of the tile cracking or breaking over time.

If your tile floor is properly maintained, you can expect it to last 20 years or more. You will greatly enhance the life of your tile floors or walls by using a properly installed cement backer board. Properly maintained tile walls installed over a cement backer board can also last 20 or more years.

When adhesive is applied over tile and the panels are adhered to the tile, the solvent in the adhesive is unable to dissipate through the ceramic tile as it would through drywall. Therefore, the only surface it can dissipate through is the plastic surround panel. This can cause the panel to soften or melt. It is also not recommended to install thinner panels over top of ceramic tile. Over time, the tile grout lines can become visible beneath the thin panels.

No. Puzzle Floor™ requires a sub-floor. Minimum 3/4" (19mm) stress rated plywood or O.S.B. (Oriented Strand Board) Tongue and Groove over open joists or sleepers.

Ceramic tile in either glazed or unglazed form do not need to be sealed. These products are impervious to moisture and topical sealers will not properly adhere to them. Also, you can not change or alter the appearance or the sheen of a ceramic tile by adding a sealer. Therefore, a sealer in not recommended for glazed and unglazed surfaces.

Each Ceramic or Stone product has characteristics that make it suitable for different applications. Here are some interesting facts. Slate is a natural stone product, so expect shading variations. Slate has high freeze and water resistance. Natural slate varies in hardness and density. It resists wear, dirt and most chemicals. Ceramic tiles include a tremendous variety of products. Ceramic tiles are rated, so that the product installed will fit its intended purpose.

Conventional floor coatings will not acquire sufficient adhesion to a ceramic tile floor. A professional contractor could be called in to completely scarify the surface. Once the ceramic finish is completely removed, it may be possible to treat the surface as a masonry or concrete surface.

It's important that your floor be strong and without any flexibility. Your joists should be 2"x10" centered every 16". The plywood subfloor must be either 5/8" exterior grade plywood or 3/4" OSB before you begin adding to the substrate. Deflection both dead and live loads must not exceed L/360 for ceramic tile or L/720 for natural stone and some larger ceramic tiles. There are allowances made for variances to the above. Check with the pros in the forum for recommendations.

Tile is the most durable flooring and facing material available. It is color permanent and virtually abrasion resistant. It will not cut, tear, gouge, puncture, warp, rot, burn or require refinishing.

Although glazed ceramic tile requires less floor care than most of the other flooring types, there are things you need to do to maintain the beauty of the ceramic tile floor. Wash regularly. Wash the floor regularly to remove any dirt or grit. Use a mild, diluted detergent solution, such as Mr. Clean or Spic & Span. If in doubt, call us to get the file manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations. Always rinse.

Sogo, a fully homogenous tile is far superior to ordinary ceramic floor tiles. Ordinary ceramic floor tiles are porous products and require to be glazed before use. Sogo on the other hand is an unglazed product. It is made of single compact body mass and is fully vitrified (water absorption near zero). This makes it stronger and more durables.

We generally recommend that the underlayment be removed because the subfloor may mot be adequate to support tile; however if your existing vinyl floor was installed over an adequate subfloor using a full spread installation method then yes, it can be done if you use the proper installation products.

Ceramic tile is a mixture of clays, molded into a shape and fired at high temperatures - resulting in a hard body. This hard body may be left untreated or it may receive a glazed wear layer. All the raw materials that go into making ceramic tile come from the earth, including the colors of the glaze.

Ceramic tile is a mixture of clays which have been shaped and fired at high temperatures, resulting in a hard body. Ceramic tile is made of two parts: the body, which is called the Bisque and the surface which is called the Glaze. Glaze colors are made from minerals such as gold, sliver, zinc copper, mercury cobalt and others.

Concrete Floors must not contain a sealer or finish of any kind. For installing below grade (below floor level, like in basements), we recommend Basement Proofer to prepare concrete floors. First, clean the sub-floor for any remaining dirt and grease. Tiles must be in the room of installation for at least 2 days to stabilize temperature. Never use polyurethane over vinyl tile.

Although modified thinset will bond to the vinyl floor covering it doesn't mean it will allow for a successful installation. The vinyl should be removed along with the 1/4" plywood underlayment.

A.On the whole, it is not more difficult to install. There are exceptions of course such as the difficulties with thickness gauges, which takes more time in lying out and whether a complex pattern is being used. As for cost it is generally not more expensive except for time spent on laying out patterns and the thickness gauging again, at least for the tile contractors I have worked on projects with. The setting supplies and procedures are the same, but stone is heavier to work with.

No, tile installation is not recommended over gypsum products. The moisture in the setting materials will deteriorate the gypsum cement.