Yes, using a suitable underlay and a surface vapour barrier on top of the concrete. This is not to be confused with the damp proof membrane in the concrete. You must have both.

The sub-floor must be level to 3mm over 3mtrs. If not then either a leveling compound must be used, the floor sanded/ground to the required level or battens could be installed and packed and the plywood attached to them. Keep in mind that the last option would, of course, increase the height of the floor. Please note: This type of floor in not suitable to span battens.

It depends upon the thickness of your hardwood layer but the fact is that 95 % of hardwood surfaces are never refinished. With the high quality finishes that are offered and the extensive process that refinishing a floor entails, damaged areas are often removed professionally. If sanding is desired, typically, the professional sanding procedure removes 1/32 of an inch. Thus if your floor has a 2mm layer you can sand the floor 1-2 times.

Yes. Most engineered floors, whether plank, strip or the Longstrip-type, can be refinished at least once and some can be refinished up to three times, depending upon the thickness of the top layer of hardwood. In fact, Tarkett offers a refinishing warranty on all but one of its engineered floors. This means the floor can be sanded and refinished up to three times, depending on the product, when the job is performed correctly by a professional floor refinisher.

Some of the better quality engineered wood floors have a 1/8" thick finish layer and can be sanded and refinished 1 or maybe 2 times. The sanding and refinishing of an engineered wood floor is best done by an experienced hardwood flooring refinisher. If you have heat vents in your floor you can remove a heat cover to get a side view of your wood floor. This will help you check to see how thick you finish layer is.

Most floors expand and contract with temperature fluctuations; expanding in the summer, contracting in the winter, throughout their life. Therefore, sealing of the joints will only last until the first heating or cooling season.

Power troweling provides a nice-looking, smooth finish on concrete floors. It creates a "hard cap" (crust) on the surface. But when overdone, the surface becomes shiny and the crust may be very thick (1/8" instead of 1/32"), which may lead to problems. (Uncured lumps pushed into the surface while still plastic will become stress points that may cause spider web cracking later. The thick hard cap may spall as the concrete underneath cures and shrinks.

There can be a great deal of variance in the design of a floor system, based on the overall quality desired. Factors such as joist depth, thickness of sheathing, and the use of glue, bridging or blocking can impact the stiffness, and therefore the performance, of the floor. Before comparing the bottom line on your floor quotes, make sure you are comparing apples to apples.

We can add depth to the areas needing support and add rebar to strengthen the concrete for the additional load. Metal screw jacks are often used for support posts.

Yes, we recommend that you check that the floor is insulated to ensure the system is efficient to run and you reduce potential heat loss.

Absolutely, cracks enhance the look of stained floors. Most stained floors use a combination of cut designs and colors to add beauty. The cracks are complimenting.

Yes, our highly trained Floorguard? installers will remove the paint using heavy duty machinery, and then apply the Floorguard? floor system.

This is the concrete hearth built into the floor so that if burning coals spill over onto the floor they do not cause a fire hazard.

Yes you can lay timber over concrete. If the concrete slab is less than five years old, we can apply a membrane between the slab and the timber so as the moisture from the slab doesn't damage the timber.

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If the floor is cracked it is advisable to use an anti-fracture membrane, otherwise cracks may transmit through the tile. Also as stated in question #2 you cannot tile over a painted concrete floor.

By design, engineered wood products are more stable and consistent than conventional lumber. I-joists are manufactured to precise tolerances and will not shrink, warp or twist, eliminating the performance-related problems – including squeaks – that are associated with conventional lumber joists. I-joists are also engineered to weigh less and span further than solid sawn lumber joists, enabling you to reduce or eliminate bulkheads and design longer spans.

Concrete is a commonly requested material. To be honest, we don't know much about gluing to concrete. You could check with some building sites. Cement is the adhesive that holds concrete together. It will take some research on our part but we are thinking about doing concrete. A very cool and specialized glue! It does its job then you can roll it into ball and ... well, have a ball with it. The glue that is used for "tip ins" (magazine jargon) is referred to as a Peel and Stick glue.

The sub-floor must be level to 3mm over 3mtrs. If not then either a leveling compound must be used, the floor sanded/ground to the required level or battens could be installed and packed and the plywood attached to them. Keep in mind that the last option would, of course, increase the height of the floor. The parquetry is then set out to ensuring that the pattern remains straight, and leaving a minimum 10mm gap for expansion around the perimeter.

A concrete floor is cheaper to build than a timber or particleboard floor but only if the building site is level and the floor is a minimum 225mm above natural ground level. Our recommendation will always be, if you’re building a replica home, they look their best when elevated or raised up off the ground by at least 600mm. 100 years ago, concrete as we know it wasn’t available, so the old style colonial villa house appears to look out of place set low to the ground.

No. Concrete does not drain external batteries. Discharge rate is related to storage temperature. The warmer a storage area is, the faster it will deplete an external battery. Each ten-degree drop in ambient temperature in the storage area doubles the shelf life of the battery. Back to section Back to top

Care needs to be taken when removing hard materials like tiles or timber direct to concrete. Our floor stripping division can take care of removal work if required. Why Choose Polished Concrete There is no other floor finish that can be customized like concrete. Concrete is a product of nature and is the most widely used material in construction. Concrete is an advanteous ecological material with inherent beauty. The possibilities to customize concrete as a floor are countless.

Concrete Floors must not contain a sealer or finish of any kind. For installing below grade (below floor level, like in basements), we recommend Basement Proofer to prepare concrete floors. First, clean the sub-floor for any remaining dirt and grease. Tiles must be in the room of installation for at least 2 days to stabilize temperature. Never use polyurethane over vinyl tile.

With the improvements in hardwood floors most engineered and longstrip engineered plank floors can be used over a concrete slab. Manufacturers do not recommend using solid wood floors over a slab. Engineered planks and strip wood floors can be glued directly to a clean, dry, well-cured concrete slab. Some engineered wood floors can be glued at the tongue and grooves and then allowed to be floated over a special padding that is laid over the concrete slab.

Yes. FloorMuffler™ can be used for solid hardwood and engineered floor glue down applications. Please refer to the specific installation instructions and warranties for these types of applications. FloorMuffler™ High Performance Adhesive System can be used in these type of glue down applications. This complete system has been extensively tested and is warranted as a complete system. Back to Top The answer is two-fold. First, Diversified Foam Products, Inc.

Orange Glo Cleaner can be used on all manufactured or engineered floors. However, Orange Glo Hardwood refinisher can only be used on polyurethane finished manufactured or engineered floors.