Nitro is often called a "thin skin" as it really allows the guitar to resonate freely. It has a superior feel and a super glossy look to it. Poly is almost like a thin layer of plastic. It feels tacky and doesn't allow the guitar to resonate very well. Most companies use poly because its faster to work with.

While I can't guarantee all those things, I will do my best at making recommendations and steer you in the right direction if you need some help picking out parts and materials. Keep in mind that what we build are custom basses and the bass you order will end up sounding how it ends up sounding. I use the best materials I can find. If you're putting the good stuff into a bass build it only makes sense that bass will end up sounding great.

No, you do not. It was Bob Taylor who said, "A long time ago, some guy figured out that if you keep spraying and sanding a guitar, you can make it really shiny. We need to exhume that guy and shoot him!" While nitrocellulose lacquer has become "traditional" and a mirror-like lacquer finish is the standard, there are many other finish options including waterbased/waterborne lacquers, French polish/shellac, varnish, and various oil-based finishes like Tru Oil.

Brushing lacquers are formulated for application with a brush. Spraying lacquers are formulated to be applied using specialized spray equipment. Spraying lacquers do not give satisfactory results when they are applied with a brush, as they are sticky, hard to brush out, and leave a streaky finish. They also dry very quickly. They tend to be difficult for a DIYer work with.

Nitrocellulose is an ester of cellulose and nitric acid. It is used as a component of many lacquers, inks, adhesives and cements. It becomes very unstable when heated and dry. It auto ignites at 275 F - 330 F in a violent , exothermic reaction to form a dense cloud containing potentially toxic levels of nitrogen oxides and carbon monoxide. It is extremely corrosive. Do not process nitrocellulose in your Sidewinder. It is dangerous and related damage is not covered by warranty.

A.) Have you seen some wooden furniture that has turned yellow over the years? That is generally caused from a lacquer based finish. Because The Conrad Grebel Furniture Collection uses Danish-oil stains and Conrad Grebel Guard catalyzed varnish, your heirloom will resist yellowing in the coming years.

Lacquer is a man-made finish, which was developed after WWI. Lacquer is usually applied by spray gun. Lacquer is widely used on all new furniture since the 1940???s. Lacquer is also widely used in most refinishing shops today. Shellac is an organic, natural finish created by the lac bug found in Indo-China in places like the country of India. Removing it from trees where the lac bug nests, dissolved and purified to different levels depending on its end use.

A simple way of visualizing the differences are the difference between oil based paint and latex based paint. Oil based paint needs paint thinner for cleanup, while latex based paint can be cleaned up with soapy water. A more comprehensive explanation is the base of a lacquer base coating is usually derived from petroleum or alcohol, while aqueous based solutions are made with water as the main ingredient.

No. Despite the similarities in their names, Shellac and lacquer are not the same, and are not related. Shellac is an insect resin secreted by the Lac bug, which lives in India and Southeast Asia. Shellac’s solvent is alcohol. Lacquer is based on cellulose nitrate (nitrocellulose) with resins added to make it less brittle, and nitrocellulose is made from wood pulp. Lacquer’s solvent is lacquer thinner.

Yes, we can inject a gel slice. Run the antigen on the gel, stain with Coomassie Blue, cut out the band of interest and place in a tube with just enough distilled water or PBS to keep the gel slice moist. Coomassie Blue is not toxic to the animals. Try not to use a protocol that uses much ascetic acid. Please do not freeze the gel prep. Antigens in gel are stable at 4 degrees Celsius. You may send the gel at room temperature or with an ice pack. Estimate how much you are sending.

We recommend lacquer because it is the best finish we have found for our products. The lacquer protects the wood from moisture, and at the same time penetrates into the surface, bringing out the natural beauty of the wood...lacquer makes the wood "come alive" (not to sound too corny, but it's true). The lacquer also provides a semi-glossy surface that is easy to clean, and looks great.

Absolutely. A lacquer is an aluminum-based disc, covered with a plastic material that is cut by an engineer from your master tapes. It is the medium by which your music is transferred to disc to produce metal parts, which produces phonograph records. It is a vital part of record pressing.

One of the most protective finishes available, varnishes have very good resistance against abrasion, wear, Many furniture factories and large volume refinishers use lacquers because of their fast-drying characteristics the tradeoff we believe to be time v. quality. Oil based varnish does not dry very quickly, therefore it will take longer to complete a finishing project using varnish as opposed to lacquer, but the upside is a more durable, quality finish.

Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer is a beautiful, clear protective finish for wood and metal. It is ideal for interior wood surfaces, and can be used over bare or stained wood. It dries to the touch in 30 minutes, ensuring a smooth, dust-free finish. Recoat in only two hours, with no sanding needed between coats. The finish flows evenly across the wood to provide a smooth surface.

Not necessarily, once you have removed the lacquer you can maintain the brass quite easily with simple regular maintenance. First wash and dry your item with warm soapy water to ensure the brass is clean. Next you can polish with a cloth that has previously been soaked in a metal polish such as Brasso? and allowed to dry for 24 hours.

Polyurethanes and lacquers are not compatible with each other. Applying one over the other may cause problems with adhesion.

Lacquering or waxing silver is generally not recommended because of the difficulties in obtaining an even coating. If the coating has not been applied well, it may be uneven or have streaks and small holes, so that when the object retarnishes, it could look worse than if no coating had been applied at all. Lacquer will also eventually yellow and crack, allowing tarnish to form within the fissures and eventually under the protective coating.

A : We use automotive lacquers, so you tell us! We put a ground coat on the raw composite material, then usually add a color coat (or two) and then a clear coat, then the logo foils and fret markers (decals or hand-painted) go on, followed by a final clear coat or two. The lacquer reaches final hardness after a month or so, depending on whether additives for hardness or flexibility have been added. For example, fretless fretboards get a harder clearcoat applied.

Our artists are all professional and have abundant experiences. We use preferable materials in the production line and precise quality control system, so the quality of the products are guarantee and they will never drop lacquer or fade.

Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer is formulated to work as a base coat under Minwax® Brushing Lacquer. It is easy to sand, dries quickly, and seals the wood in just one coat. Once sanded, it provides a smooth, even surface that is ready to be top coated with Minwax® Brushing Lacquer. For consumers who want an ultra-smooth finish, we recommend that they apply a coat of our Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer prior to applying a coat of Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer.

Nitrocellulose finishes are really the rare breed today. Because of the environmental hazards of spraying this material it is becoming regulated or outlawed in more and more areas, beginning with California. We all like the way it looks on vintage instruments, but it does shrink, crack and scratch much worse than either polyester or polyurethane finishes. These are qualities that many people used to live with, but now feel are unacceptable.

The development of ???multi-compatible??? dispersions has increased the flexibility of coating manufacturers to produce various paint systems from one tinter range. The advent of these systems has led to certain problems when specific resin systems are used. One of these is nitrocellulose resins, where compatibility is greatly influenced by the type of dispersant used in the tinter system.

Quality of components, construction and optics. While all models are based on the same technology, each type of microscope employs different construction, size, optical quality, magnification power and method of use. Since the end test results should be basically identical with all models, selection becomes a matter of preference. Additionally, overall quality of components generally tend to correlate with ease of use and successful results.

One of our customers was wondering if drying E. coli on Nylon transfer membranes prior to denaturation effects the colony hybridization. Further, they were wondering if after drying the membranes, would treating with SDS before denaturation effect the hybridization? The answer is...NO, this will work! The hybridization will not be adversely affected. This is the procedure they used.

Although traditional wisdom has it that French polish is more conducive to sound, hence is better, the issue really isn't that clear. More to the point, the question is how hard and thick the finish is, especially on the top. Although thick, hard finishes will dampen sound, lacquer may be applied just as thinly as French polish, and if properly applied seems to work just as well. There are other considerations as well that should be kept in mind.

We're more than happy to answer your question with an amount of detail we hope will clearly clarify this issue for you. Any modern day finish (within the last 10 plus years) should NOT have any form of plastic set on it for any length of time. Current finishes have chemical properties in them that can actually mix with the chemical composition of plastics (such as a plastic table cloth), causing what is called "plasticizer migration.

If thinning is needed, use the thinner recommended on the label. If strong solvent is added, uneven gloss, wrinkling, and dissolving of previous coatings are only a few of many problems that can be caused. All thinner must evaporate from a coating before a film can begin to cure. Solvent is normally added to change consistency for different application methods.

No, but we do sell products to any stage of completion you wish, and we do custom work, so we can pretty much make anything you can dream up. We can dream something up for you, too.

Is it possible to use same thinner for both primer and top coat of Bose Neos? Because it specifies different one.