For cement sub-floors Fastwarm under floor heating insulation boards will readily bond to any good quality flexible , water based (solvent-free) floor tile adhesive. For heated wood floors care must be taken to ensure that the floor is firmly fixed to the joists, following the recommended 300mm screwed centres as a guide, prior to applying the flexible floor tile adhesive and bonding the Fastwarm® insulation boards.

For cement sub-floors Fastwarm® boards will readily bond to any good quality fast setting, water based (solvent-free) floor tile adhesive. For wood floors care must be taken to ensure that the floor is firmly fixed to the joists, following the recommended 300 mm screwed centres as a guide, prior to applying the flexible floor tile adhesive and bonding the Fastwarm boards.

Fastwarm under floor heating insulation boards are designed to meet the very rigorous needs to be both high thermal value and high compressive strength, capable of normal foot traffic point loading.

A simple rule of thumb is to incorporate as much heating insulation wherever possible. For new build projects this is easy to plan but in a typical refurbish situation this is not always possible where the finished heated floor height may restrict the depth available to add the heating insulation.

During the summer months of the year, there is a lot of humidity in the air. Your hardwood floor soaks up this humidity and expands. As the winter months roll around, and the heat is turned on, the floor dries out and starts to gap. There are a couple of tips we recommend to try and avoid this problem. Try to keep the room at a constant 45% humidity level using an air conditioner, humidifier, or a dehumidifier. Also, prior to installation, let your floor acclimate to its surroundings.

Traditional use of plywood is a well-proven method but it is difficult to cut around complicated bathroom objects, is heavy and relatively expensive; it will require fixing to the sub-floor and primed prior to the use of tile adhesive. Fastwarm® insulation boards will achieve the same result being easy to cut with a sharp knife, available in more manageable sizes, very light weight, completely water and rot resistant, requiring no special priming to apply floor tile adhesive and low cost.

Yes, following on from the question above continue with the same flexible floor tile adhesive laying tiles in the normal way.

A high quality thermal barrier will slow the process of heat loss into the sub-floor, significantly improving the performance, speeding the initial warm up times and reducing the electricity costs. We recommend Faswarm under floor heating insulation.

Extruded polystyrene foams will give the best all round performance. Polystyrene has high thermal insulation properties, high compressive strength capable of supporting normal foot traffic impact loading, waterproof, rot resistant, light weight, easy to handle, easily cut and shaped with a sharp knife, available in various depths from 10 mm to 60 mm and low cost. We recommend Faswarm under floor heating insulation.

If your oak framed building is to be used for habitation or special purposes we are able to undertake these works or advise you accordingly.

Insulation (roof, walls, etc.) is a very important issue for all heating systems to save on the energy bill, and for floor-warming systems the floor insulation is of special importance. The local building norms must be followed in this respect and they are improved in all countries runningly. To illustrate the importance: With no floor insulation you loose approx. 30% of your installed output downwards.

Floors over unheated crawlspaces or basements should be insulated to R-19, while floors over open air (such as overhangs) should be insulated to R-30 if possible. If your home has a basement containing your heating system or other sources of heat, you should insulate the basement walls to R-11, rather than insulating the floor above.

The thickness will depend on the stability of your floor. Plywood must be installed over an adequate subfloor and be at least 1 1/4" thick when combined with the subfloor. Interior-grade plywood and particleboard are not considered a strong enough floor underlayment. The plywood needs to be fastened with flooring screws or wood screws every six inches on the edges and eight inches in the field.

The sub-floor is basically your existing structural floor. This will be constructed of Concrete or Timber. All timber floors must have cross ventilation below the floor level. So make sure the air bricks on the outside of the house are clear. Concrete floors fall in two categories, without a damp proof membrane ( dpm ) or with a dpm. All modern houses have a dpm, built in . This should prevent rising damp coming up through the screed ( concrete )

The answer is yes, but if a room has under floor heating, it is doubly important that it be properly installed to allow for expansion and contraction. We are able to supply manufacturers' technical specifications regarding underfloor heating.

Fastwarm® insulation boards are manufactured from extruded polystyrene foam, produced without the use of CFC or HCFC blowing agents, have zero ODP and are fully recyclable. Designed to meet the very specific needs of the under-floor heating industry: extremely thermally efficient and ultra strong, suitable for electric cable installations or hot water systems, available in various depths from 10 mm to 60 mm.

Fastwarm boards are designed to meet the very rigorous needs to be both high thermal value and high compressive strength, capable of normal foot traffic point loading.

Fastwarm underfloor heating insulation boards are manufactured from extruded polystyrene foam, designed to meet the very specific needs of the under-floor heating industry.

It is essential that floors which are ground bearing or suspended over an un-heated space with or without underfloor heating are properly insulated to meet the U-values requirements as stated in the Building Regulations Part L1/L2 2002. The value is currently set at 0.25 W/m 2K. The thickness of insulation required to achieve this will vary according to the type of floor, size of floor and type of insulation selected.

Radiant floor heating is a comfortable and efficient form of heating where warm water circulates through flexible, specially designed tubing (PEX) installed under the floor. The heat radiates evenly up through the floor warming people and objects in the room and providing more comfort for less money.

All units carry a 10 year manufacturers warranty, however, if installed and used correctly the life-span is unlimited. It will easily last as long as your floor covering.

We would prefer that you did not. Floor heating systems are professionally installed through our trained personnel.

One method is to use hot water pipes placed below the floor. The water tubing is connected to a water boiler. The hot water from the boiler is circulating through the tubing to generate the radiant heat. Hydronic systems require maintenance for pumps and valves, are difficult to use for smaller areas and for retrofits in an existing home. Another alternative is the use of electric cables. These systems are fixed wattage and carry higher voltage (100V - 230V).

It's not difficult at all! The pipe is really easy to handle because of its metal core and it is simply laid out as per the AutoCAD drawings Unipipe provide. There are no joints to be made in the floor and the manifolds, which the pipes are connected to, are pre-assembled and just need fixing to the wall. Unipipe will also provide schematic layouts showing interconnection to boilers, cylinders etc. to ensure compatibility.

Yes, the control systems and design allow hotter water for radiators, towel rails, whilst cooler water flows to the floors.

No, it is a common misconception that this is the case; your floor heating system is turned on and off to suit your needs by the controls.