If you use a high quality extended service oil filter, you may be able to go 60,000 miles between filter changes. See the SynLube™ Lube-4-Life ® Oil Filter Guide for more information. We strongly recommend that if you are interested in maximum oil drains and maximum engine protection that you buy high-quality oil filters and discuss filter change recommendations with your filter supplier or retailer.

The oil drain is on the bottom of the engine, though it is difficult to see. The oil can be changed in two ways : You can remove the components, such as the bottom plate and the engine pulley, to gain access to the oil drain.

Modern engine oils do more than lubricate-they help remove harmful engine deposits and contaminants as you drive. The oil suspends these contaminants and carries them to the oil filter where they are trapped and held. Eventually, the oil filter becomes so saturated with these contaminants that its filtering capability is significantly reduced or made totally ineffective.

Yes. The oil filter removes debris from the oil that accumulates in the engine. The debris primarily comes in with the intake air or is formed in the combustion process. Replacing the filter at each oil drain protects the engine by ensuring that the filter does not get full of debris and does filter the oil properly.

We recommend customers who drive in a city environment where there's lots of stop and go driving to change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. The main reason we recommend 3,000 mile intervals is that driving in stop and go conditions causes excessive unburned fuel and carbon build up causing your engine oil to become contaminated. Oil is the life blood of your engine and changing it frequently will increase the longevity of your engine and reduce the potential for major mechanical failures.

Motor oil serves many purposes. Its primary function is to lubricate and protect, but it also keeps your engine cool and running clean. The conventional wisdom tells you that: "By changing your oil frequently, you remove combustion by-products such as acid, soot, abrasives, water and unburned fuel." All of these substances can have damaging effects on both the performance and life of your engine.

Micro-abrasive blasting requires clean dry air to work effectively. Oil contamination will cause irregularities in the abrasive flow by forming clumps above the orifice or in the nozzle. Proper protection from oil is especially critical for MicroBlasters that are connected to a shop’s compressed air line. Often oil is added to air line for pneumatic instrument lubrication. Older piston compressors tend to have leaky O-rings, putting oil into the air stream.

The best way to ensure proper oiling is to use our squeeze bottle recharger kit (Part No. 99-5050). With a squeeze bottle, you simply run a bead along the top of each pleat on both sides of the filter. If using an aerosol recharger kit (Part No. 99-5000), make one light pass over the entire filter area front and back. The oil will then be evenly absorbed throughout the rest of the cotton medium over the next several minutes.

The oil filter is located on the top of the engine near the driver side in the front. It is different than the disposable filter used in other autos. The outside plastic housing is reuseable and can be open with a special filter tool, M-B part #103 589 02 09 00 made by Matador, or #103 589 00 09 00 by Stahlwille. There is also CTA Ritefit 76-14 B A251. By the way, these tools are the same one used for oil filers in all gas engine by M-B since 1984.

Yes, all of the X-Change-R systems are reversible and can be used to fill, drain and top-off your engine's oil.

Nope. If you got it from a Dealer in a Sealed Plastic Bag it is pre-oiled. Just use the Method Above to pry the plastic frame apart and reinsert it. The foam does break down naturally after a while, sometimes lasts a couple of years, sometimes not. If you live in an area high in ozone, it will break down the foam fairly quickly. After 2 years some have noticed the filter starting to "dust", but a new pre oiled filter is only $6.

Use oil designed for ESI applications. (Min. CG-4) (2) Use oil analysis designed for ESI to establish and verify change intervals. (3) Consult your engine supplier for recommendations on oil change intervals. (4) Use lube filters designed for ESI applications. Cummins Filtration, we are committed to providing customer service and value after the initial sale. That's why we offer a range of services that extend the Cummins Filtration Value Package and help you stay on the road longer.

In a reverse osmosis system there are two types of filters. If you have a high quality unit, the first type is the carbon filters, and those need to be inspected every 18-24 months. The main filter of the unit is the membrane filter and that filter needs to be serviced every two to four years. In a low quality unit the carbon filters need to be changed every 2-6 months and the membrane every year. If you freeze some water and it comes out cloudy, you should have the filters changed.

Regular filter changes will ensure that the silver levels are maintained at an effective concentration to avoid any possible build up of bacteria. The carbon will become less effective in its work of combating tastes and smells over a period of time. Regular changes keep your water tasting fresh and sweet.

The oil quality gets reduced while in service due to oxidation of the oil and/or contamination of the oil and / or depletion of the additives as it gets used up during its service. Oxidation of the Oil in presence of air & high temperature produces acidic and gummy substances. If it is allowed to increase beyond certain limits then it will start corroding the equipment or leave unwanted deposits on the moving parts.

Experts say that every 3,000 to 5,000 miles is a great time to get your oil changed, depending on the age and condition of your engine. Be sure and use the correct oil weight that's specific to your engine! Please feel free to send an email if you have any questions that are not covered here. No question is ever too weird. Do you have a custom job in mind? Send us an email and we'll get in touch right away. When a design is established, an electronic proof will be emailed for your approval.

This is because all modern engines are constructed so that Motor Oil is in the Oil Sump and is only pumped by the Oil Pump through the Oil Filter only when the engine is running. When the engine is switched off there is only small amount of oil left in the oil filter. In some designs even this small amount of oil will slowly drain back to the oil sump. However, if the oil filter is equipped with Anti-drain back Valve it will remain in the oil filter.

Cummins Filtration recommends changing your oil and filter by your engine manufacturer's recommendations.

There is no one right answer. It will differ by individual patient and individual provider. One thing that is clear is that there is a lot of variation in current interval lengths. Any time there is variation, there is an opportunity to make improvements.

Occasionally we get this question from someone who fears that heating the cylinders is bad because it may allow the oil in the cylinders to run off, so the cylinders may be "dry" when the engine is started. This is not a concern, because: Our cylinder heaters raise the cylinder temperature about 70-90o above ambient, like a warm summer day. So oil runoff is no more of a concern when preheating than it is when your aircraft is sitting on a hot ramp in summer.

Well, where is the turbo mounted? If you're using an HKS manifold or a similar piece, it's easy. The turbo drain points down and you run a large diameter hose from the drain down into the pan. You will need to put a fitting into the pan, as high on the pan as possible but low enough that it is still below the turbo drain. It will be almost directly inline with the oil cooler return fitting. You will need to use a good quality hose.

We recommend you change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles. However, many of our customers find that their oil is still clean at this point because of Tufoil's ability to cut friction and wear. They will then make the decision to extend oil changes accordingly.

SynLube™ Lube-4-Life ® is formulated with high-quality detergents and dispersants, designed to handle the soot loading prevalent in some recent model-year, emission-controlled engines.

It's all in the formulation. AMSOIL uses top-quality synthetic basestocks along with top-quality additives in the manufacturing of their oils. This combination of basestocks and additives makes AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils highly resistant to the destructive effects of heat by not breaking down like petroleum oils. This means that AMSOIL Motor Oils can provide much longer drain intervals then conventional lubricants.

It's all in the formulation. Because AMSOIL is made with synthetic basestocks, it resists thermal and oxidative breakdown, which suits it for extended drain use. AMSOIL pairs top-quality long-life synthetic basestocks with top-quality long-life additives. The fact is, other oil companies don't use the quality additives AMSOIL uses because it simply doesn't pay to pair long-life additives with short-lived conventional basestocks.

Not at all. The PTFE particles in Tufoil so small, they pass through the filter as if it wasn't even there! Bulk filters that use the big wads of cellulose or edge on toilet paper rolls, filter fine. Yes. However, If you have an old classic that ran on oils before 1950, we recommend taking the engine apart and physically cleaning the sludge out of the crankcase and out of the valve covers before using Tufoil. A high detergent oil can stir that material up and cause problems.