Yes, ideally the floor must firstly be overlaid with WBP ply (9mm minimum), which must be screwed down, primed, the tiles must then be solid bed fixed using a flexible adhesive, and finally, grouted using a flexible grout. These are only brief instructions so please see the Advice section for further details. You should use a water resistant and flexible class AA adhesive, which is suitable for the surface you are fixing to and the type of tile that you are fixing.

Yes, it is possible. However, there are some conditions which must be adhered to. Existing floors must be overlayed with at least WBP grade plywood. However, marine ply is best. It must have a minimum thickness 19mm, screwed down (not nailed) at 150mm centres. All timber surfaces should be primed on the reverse side and all edges. It is essential that one uses powdered adhesive with a latex additive when tiling onto plywood.

You can use a two part ???rubber based or latex modified??? flexible adhesive to tile directly onto the timber. (Ensure the product chosen is manufactured specifically for this purpose). The timber will need to be clean and stable. (You will need to confirm floor joists and spans will be acceptable). This option is best suited when there are concerns of adding extra height to the existing floor and/or in smaller areas not subject movement or high traffic.

The floor should be sanded to abrade any remaining finish, and then thoroughly washed with a powdered cleaner such as Spic-n-Span. Use water as sparingly as possible, and allow the floor to dry thoroughly. Once you are certain that the floor is dry, apply one coat of Hollandlac Oil Primer and allow to dry for at least 24 hours. The floor should then be lightly sanded with a 150-grit paper to the desired level of smoothness, vacuumed and tacked dust-free.

Our technicians do not install floor tile, but we can recommend and coordinate with tile contractors to give your bathroom a completely new look.

Typically the removal and disposal of that type of asbestos containing material is not regulated by EPA (even commercially) if it is in good condition. If the material can be taken up with no significant breakage, there is little risk for fiber release.

The choice can be bewildering. There are dozens of different timbers in different grades, colours and patterns. There are also different types of floor construction and finishes. Prices vary according to species and quality. Ideally, you won't choose simply by looking at a picture, come to the showroom and see large samples, this will give you the best chance of properly judging the character of the wood.

Yes, but some floors need additional preparation. Contact our Technical Dept. for advice on your floor.

If your house has insulation or a solid deck, the sound of rain or hail will be no more noticeable than with any other type of roofing. In fact, Met-Tile's panel design helps to deaden sound transmission because only a small portion of the roofing actually touches the structure.

Yes, when proper installation methods are followed. Exterior applications require special precautions and installation methods. Do not install floor tile on exterior walls unless the product specifically recommends this application.

Ceramic tile in either glazed or unglazed form do not need to be sealed. These products are impervious to moisture and topical sealers will not properly adhere to them. Also, you can not change or alter the appearance or the sheen of a ceramic tile by adding a sealer. Therefore, a sealer in not recommended for glazed and unglazed surfaces.

Tile mosaics are a wonderful, lively addition that complements the appearance of your pool. They can be selected and ordered upon your visit to choose waterline tile.

No, we do not recommend doing this, as a wall is generally a P.E.I. 1 tile, that is it has a very low wearing and will not last very long.

Wall tiles are generally more porous, which helps with their adhesion to walls, the glaze is used more for the appearance, and is resistant to detergents etc. On the contrary, floor tiles have low porosity, with low to medium water absorption, which will give them better technical characteristics, as the glaze is more than the look, it is also used to prevent wear and promote scratch resistance.

We would prefer that you did not. Floor heating systems are professionally installed through our trained personnel.

Water and oil will bead up on your floor when sealed as recommended in our Installation Specification Guide. You need only mop it up with a sponge. For routine cleaning vacuum or sweep it, as you would any other natural stone floor or a wood floor. To wipe up, use a non-acid based cleaning product. Warm, soapy water is also fine. AquaMix makes a tile cleaning product, Concentrated Stone & Tile Cleaner, which can be used on your floor. Check their website at www.aquamix.

If the structure of the counter is strong enough to support the weight of the heavier floor tile, then this should be fine.

A tile, whether it be ceramic, porcelain or natural stone is usually a good retainer of heat. Therefore it can often be the warmest floor in your home or building. It depends on the air temperature under the floor and the exposure to sunlight etc. Under-floor heating is a good option to warm your floor but it???s real intention is to provide an efficient, effective heating solution that gives you comfort throughout your home, therefore fulfilling your complete heating requirement.

No paint must be removed off of a concrete floor before tile can be applied. Removal of Paint can be done by scraping it or a shot blaster machine.

If the floor is cracked it is advisable to use an anti-fracture membrane, otherwise cracks may transmit through the tile. Also as stated in question #2 you cannot tile over a painted concrete floor.

Do not use household dust treatment chemicals on the tile. Use a vinyl floor cleaner and separate finish. Both must be water-based. Vacuums: Do not use a beater brush on a vinyl floor. Use the proper solid floor attachment for vacuuming. NO WAX! Do not wax a vinyl floor. All of our vinyl flooring contains a no-wax finish. The flooring is non-porous and will not absorb wax. It will build up and collect even more dirt.

Yes. However, tile will not bond directly to a wood floor. We recommend the following methods to prepare your wood floor for tile installation: Install Schluter Ditra, from Schluter Systems, with a latex thinset. Then install the tile using a non-latex thinset.

Yes. If the old tiles are high-gloss, we recommend sanding them down first to increase bonding strength. Then use a high-strength latex thinset to install the new tile.

No. Wall tile has a lower breaking strength than floor tile. By installing wall tile on floors, you run the risk of the tile cracking or breaking over time.

Exposure to the ultra-violet rays of the sun, whether direct or indirect will cause the flooring to change colour over a period of time. As a general rule the lighter coloured woods darken with time and the darker coloured woods tend to lighten. the changes in colour occur naturally and are therefore not covered by any guarantees or warranties.

Other than regular cleaning with woodfloor cleaners, and depending on the amount of traffic walking across the floor, every couple of years a very light sand down and a two coats of lacquer is recommended. This can be done by you, or you can phone us for a competitive quote.

Yes, William Clark???s journal mentions a puncheon (rough plank) floor. We really don???t know if there was a complete wooden floor in every room.

Yes, you can install T2QuickNet-90 direct on wooden floor. T2QuickNet-160 has to be installed on a self-levelling surfacer as an inter-layer on the wooden sub floor. No, T2QuickNet may only be employed in a completely flat, enclosed material. T2Reflecta is the correct system for this application, as it is a self-regulating system.