It is very easy to clean a Pre-finished hardwood floor. Simply dust mop, sweep, or vacuum (vacuum should have rubber wheels so not to scratch the floor). Most flooring dealers also sell cleaning kits, which come with a mop as well as an approved cleaner. If you are not sure which cleaner is appropriate for your floor, contact your local dealer for assistance.

Wipe spills immediately. When accidents happen and some liquid gets spilled on your hardwood floor, you should use a slightly damp white cloth or paper towel to immediately clean up and dry the effected area. For more difficult spots, follow the manufacturer’s recommended cleaning procedures. Don’t damp mop. Water and wood floors don’t mix! Use only the manufacturer’s recommended cleaning products on your hardwood floor. Vacuum regularly.

No. You should never wet mop your wood floor. Standing water left after wet mopping can dull your finish, damage the wood, and leave unsightly discoloring. If you happen to spill water on your floor, clean it up as quickly as possible. If massive amounts of water leak out onto the floor, such as a dishwasher that has leaked, it might damage the floor to the point where it would need to be replaced. Most homeowners insurance companies would cover the repairs needed if this were to happen.

Damp mop when needed, using Synteko Superclean; Do not use a generic floor cleaner that contains wax or oil. For Synteko Superclean availability check with your floor contractor or his supplier. Do not use ammonia or alcohol-based cleaners as they may damage or discolor the floor finish or the wood floor. We do not recommend the use of wax or soaps that leave an oily residue on floors finished with Synteko finishes.

A solid timber floor is more sound because it is fixed to your sub- floor. It can also be sanded numerous times without having to be replayed.

These days, most floors installed are of the Pre-finished variety. Our Pre-finishedfloors have nine layers of UV-cured Acrylic Urethane, including Aluminum Oxide in both base coats for added wear protection. That means they’re as tough as they come. Plus, our Pre-finished floors can be installed and enjoyed in the same day. Our Unfinished floors are beautiful, too. And, because they are unfinished, you have the flexibility of matching color on site.

To clean the surface of your pre-finished steel garage door, simply follow these easy steps annually: Remove dirt, chalk, and mildew by the use of a diluted solution of common bleach OR mild detergent at a concentration of one (1) cup in five (5) gallons of warm water. (Caution: Never Mix Cleansers and Bleach!)

The sub-floor must be level to 3mm over 3mtrs. If not then either a leveling compound must be used, the floor sanded/ground to the required level or battens could be installed and packed and the plywood attached to them. Keep in mind that the last option would, of course, increase the height of the floor. Please note: This type of floor in not suitable to span battens.

Pre-finished hardwood floors are five to seven times harder and contain aluminum oxide in the finish. Learn more about our hardwood flooring options here.

Pre-finished flooring has a great advantage over unfinished flooring. Both floors install exactly the same, however, once the pre-finished floor is installed you're all done. The only thing you have left to do is move the furniture back into the room and enjoy. An unfinished floor requires sanding and then the application of urethane. This can take an extra couple of days labor with an incomparable amount of aggravation.

The answer is yes, but if a room has under floor heating, it is doubly important that it be properly installed to allow for expansion and contraction. We are able to supply manufacturers' technical specifications regarding underfloor heating.

Run your hand over the surface of the wood and feel the silky smoothness of its hand-rubbed, double lacquer finish. You'll enjoy the same feel of permanence and quality you would get from fine furniture that you buy from the biggest name furniture manufacturers.

The mold cleanup is finished when there is no visible mold remaining and there is no dust or dirt remaining that could contain large amounts of mold and mold spores. Routine clearance testing for mold is not necessary. Leaving a few mold spores behind is not a problem if the underlying moisture problem has been corrected. Remember that mold spores are virtually everywhere. Even if all mold and mold spores are removed as part of the cleanup, spores from outside will re-enter that space.

Our products are shop sanded and ready for final hand sanding. Many of our customers do finish our products without additional sanding, but for the best results, we recommend some hand sanding upon receiving.

The natural characteristics of wood include the grain pattern, dark gray or black marks and knots of various sizes. They are a result of the growth process of a particular species and are influenced by sunlight, soil and climate. Minerals can appear in several forms such as a light gray streak across a board to black lines in the grain. The same holds true for grain patterns and knots.

Cupping, or "washboard". Across the width of one piece of the flooring material, the edges are high, the center is lower. Generally develops gradually. Moisture imbalance through the thickness is the only cause. The material was manufactured flat and was flat when installed. Job site or occupant provided moisture is greater on the bottom of the piece than on the top. Find the source of moisture and eliminate it.

Depending on the type of flooring, it is usually graded from clear being the best - to #2 common, know as a rustic grade. CLICK HERE for an example.

Never damp mop a waxed floor. When cleaning a surface-finished floor, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. You may generally use a dampened (near dry) mop to maintain a wood floor, however excessive moisture will cause damage. Standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood, and leave a discoloring residue. If water spills on a wood floor, immediately wipe it up with a clean cloth.

Yes, Bruce offers several suggestions. If you have a minor chip or slightdamage, we offer a color-blended filler. Our touch-up kits take care of several different issues, such as scratches and chips. If the damage is severe enough, you can have individual boards replaced.

Correctly fitted and maintained a solid wood floor will last a lifetime, but correct fitting is crucial.

Three grades relate to the floors visual appearance only and not to quality. Select is the highest grade. It is knot-free, giving floors with uniform colour and texture. These floors command the highest prices, but some people find them monotonous. The cheapest grade is Rustic, where there may be small knots and colour variations in the wood. This can make for a lively, interesting floor full of character and in no ways impairs the quality. It depends what effect you want.

With all wood floors it's just a simple question of running a damp mop over them as part of your normal house cleaning routine.

Yes. However, tile will not bond directly to a wood floor. We recommend the following methods to prepare your wood floor for tile installation: Install Schluter Ditra, from Schluter Systems, with a latex thinset. Then install the tile using a non-latex thinset.

Answer: In most cases if a person has basic carpentry skills they can install a hardwood floor themselves. The only equipment needed is a hammer, nail set, and a table-saw. Some installation methods require use of other equipment, check with your retailer.

This really depends on the type of wood floor you have, the finish you have and how deep the scratches are in the top layer. For small minor scratches in a urethane finish you should be able to order a touch-up kit from the store you purchased the flooring from. Be sure to use the manufacturer's recommended finish products and test first by applying a small amount in an out of the way area. For deep scratches you will probably have to have a professional do a screen and recoat.

Some of the better quality engineered wood floors have a 1/8" thick finish layer and can be sanded and refinished 1 or maybe 2 times. The sanding and refinishing of an engineered wood floor is best done by an experienced hardwood flooring refinisher. If you have heat vents in your floor you can remove a heat cover to get a side view of your wood floor. This will help you check to see how thick you finish layer is.

Gapping in solid wood floors cannot be stopped completely. Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Using a humidifier during the heating months may help reduce the amount of gapping in solid wood floors. Also, some wood species may gap expand and contract less than others. Engineered wood floors are much more dimensionally stable than solid wood floors and will show little or no gaps between planks.