The definition of Regulated Asbestos Containing Material (RACM) includes Category I nonfriable asbestos (including floor tile) that has become friable or has been subjected to sanding, grinding, cutting, or abrading. This includes floor tile that is in poor condition and can be crumbled, pulverized or reduced to powder using hand pressure and floor tile that has been removed utilizing mechanical methods.

I have heard that Vermiculite can contain asbestos. How do I handle it and is it dangerous to have in my house? When do you need to inspect a building for asbestos? All structures must be inspected for the presence of asbestos prior to renovation or demolition, with the exception of a single, residential structure with 4 or fewer dwelling units. Back to top I am demolishing or renovating a relatively new building.

Our technicians do not install floor tile, but we can recommend and coordinate with tile contractors to give your bathroom a completely new look.

Typically the removal and disposal of that type of asbestos containing material is not regulated by EPA (even commercially) if it is in good condition. If the material can be taken up with no significant breakage, there is little risk for fiber release.

Yes, it is possible. However, there are some conditions which must be adhered to. Existing floors must be overlayed with at least WBP grade plywood. However, marine ply is best. It must have a minimum thickness 19mm, screwed down (not nailed) at 150mm centres. All timber surfaces should be primed on the reverse side and all edges. It is essential that one uses powdered adhesive with a latex additive when tiling onto plywood.

Yes, when proper installation methods are followed. Exterior applications require special precautions and installation methods. Do not install floor tile on exterior walls unless the product specifically recommends this application.

Ceramic tile in either glazed or unglazed form do not need to be sealed. These products are impervious to moisture and topical sealers will not properly adhere to them. Also, you can not change or alter the appearance or the sheen of a ceramic tile by adding a sealer. Therefore, a sealer in not recommended for glazed and unglazed surfaces.

Tile mosaics are a wonderful, lively addition that complements the appearance of your pool. They can be selected and ordered upon your visit to choose waterline tile.

No, we do not recommend doing this, as a wall is generally a P.E.I. 1 tile, that is it has a very low wearing and will not last very long.

Wall tiles are generally more porous, which helps with their adhesion to walls, the glaze is used more for the appearance, and is resistant to detergents etc. On the contrary, floor tiles have low porosity, with low to medium water absorption, which will give them better technical characteristics, as the glaze is more than the look, it is also used to prevent wear and promote scratch resistance.

We would prefer that you did not. Floor heating systems are professionally installed through our trained personnel.

Water and oil will bead up on your floor when sealed as recommended in our Installation Specification Guide. You need only mop it up with a sponge. For routine cleaning vacuum or sweep it, as you would any other natural stone floor or a wood floor. To wipe up, use a non-acid based cleaning product. Warm, soapy water is also fine. AquaMix makes a tile cleaning product, Concentrated Stone & Tile Cleaner, which can be used on your floor. Check their website at www.aquamix.

If the structure of the counter is strong enough to support the weight of the heavier floor tile, then this should be fine.

A tile, whether it be ceramic, porcelain or natural stone is usually a good retainer of heat. Therefore it can often be the warmest floor in your home or building. It depends on the air temperature under the floor and the exposure to sunlight etc. Under-floor heating is a good option to warm your floor but itâ??s real intention is to provide an efficient, effective heating solution that gives you comfort throughout your home, therefore fulfilling your complete heating requirement.

You can use a two part â??rubber based or latex modifiedâ?? flexible adhesive to tile directly onto the timber. (Ensure the product chosen is manufactured specifically for this purpose). The timber will need to be clean and stable. (You will need to confirm floor joists and spans will be acceptable). This option is best suited when there are concerns of adding extra height to the existing floor and/or in smaller areas not subject movement or high traffic.

No paint must be removed off of a concrete floor before tile can be applied. Removal of Paint can be done by scraping it or a shot blaster machine.

If the floor is cracked it is advisable to use an anti-fracture membrane, otherwise cracks may transmit through the tile. Also as stated in question #2 you cannot tile over a painted concrete floor.

Do not use household dust treatment chemicals on the tile. Use a vinyl floor cleaner and separate finish. Both must be water-based. Vacuums: Do not use a beater brush on a vinyl floor. Use the proper solid floor attachment for vacuuming. NO WAX! Do not wax a vinyl floor. All of our vinyl flooring contains a no-wax finish. The flooring is non-porous and will not absorb wax. It will build up and collect even more dirt.

Yes. However, tile will not bond directly to a wood floor. We recommend the following methods to prepare your wood floor for tile installation: Install Schluter Ditra, from Schluter Systems, with a latex thinset. Then install the tile using a non-latex thinset.

Yes. If the old tiles are high-gloss, we recommend sanding them down first to increase bonding strength. Then use a high-strength latex thinset to install the new tile.

No. Wall tile has a lower breaking strength than floor tile. By installing wall tile on floors, you run the risk of the tile cracking or breaking over time.

It is preferred to use a thinset mortar for floors, but in residential use, mastic can be used with tile up to 6" x 6" in size on floors.

The Basement De-Watering System® is the ideal solution for carpeted basements. If the carpet has not been destroyed by years of water damage, enough of it can be moved or removed to provide clearance for the Basement De-Watering System®. Some carpets must be trimmed and replaced after the installation. If vinyl flooring has survived past seepage, it will be trimmed about 2 1/2" from the wall before the Basement De-Watering System® is installed.

This depends on a number of factors like the sub-floor type and insulation: a cement sub-floor will be slow to warm without a thermal barrier, creating a significant drag on the performance of the floor. A layer of high quality insulation will have a dramatic effect in these circumstances, speeding up the initial warm up times to within 15-20 minutes.

Yes, ideally the floor must firstly be overlaid with WBP ply (9mm minimum), which must be screwed down, primed, the tiles must then be solid bed fixed using a flexible adhesive, and finally, grouted using a flexible grout. These are only brief instructions so please see the Advice section for further details. You should use a water resistant and flexible class AA adhesive, which is suitable for the surface you are fixing to and the type of tile that you are fixing.

We recommend using a non-rinsing cleaner that leaves no film. We suggest that you vacuum, sweep or dust mop more frequently. Wipe up food or other spills immediately using a non-abrasive cleaner and a soft cloth. You should NEVER USE ABRASIVE CLEANERS, POWDERS, OIL CLEANERS, WAXES OR DISH DETERGENT; this will scratch the surface or leave a film.

You can use primer to prepare a sub-floor for vinyl tile. It aids in preparing the floor for the adhesive. We recommend Jasco Primer. NEVER USE A SEALER! TrafficMaster Pro Basement Proofer is a type of primer that acts like a sealer, but allows adhesion of the tile to concrete floors. Most importantly, it helps prevent moisture from getting between tiles and the sub-floor.