Sometimes you can use Chlorine Bleach. Chlorine will usually remove some stains, particularly dye stains that Oxalic Acid won't. But chlorine won't penetrate very deeply so if you do much sanding you may sand down to the stain again. Oxalic Acid will usually remove water, alkali and rust stains. Two-Part Wood Bleach will also remove these stains but it also removes the natural color from the wood. Both Oxalic Acid and Two-Part Wood Bleach should be available at most paint stores.

INK STAIN ON OIL FINISH: Any solvent used will likely cause the ink to bleed into the wood grain making it even worse. 1) Contact manufacturer of pen, possibly thru 800 number and ask advice. 2) Get an ink eraser from an office supply store and try erasing. 3) Carefully & slowly try household bleach. Use a Q-tip. Start by testing one small spot. If the blue starts to turn green then yellow, it's working. Color and gloss level would probably have to be rebuilt afterwards.

I prefer to use a large brush or a mop. You want to get large amounts of Stain Solver liquid on the deck surface. Hand pump sprayers often apply too little solution to the surface. If you must use a sprayer, make sure the product has dissolved completely or you will clog the nozzle! Also, be sure you spray on lots of liquid.

No, not without proper surface preparation. Recommendation is to clean surface and remove previous finish, usually by use of a pressure washer or sanding.

You should certainly protect your deck from unnecessary moisture intrusion and the harmful effects of the sun's ultra-violet rays. Use of a penetrating stain, containing water repellant ingredients in most cases will protect your deck best. The pigment in the stain will absorb the ultra-violet rays from the sun and protect the wood fibers from degradation. In most cases a stain will need maintenance every 2-4 years while clear sealers require maintenance every 1-2 years.

Every stain is different! The first step is to identify the type of stain you have. Stain removal without this information can be very expensive and time consuming. Once you have the results, call a PoolGear Plus Technical Representative at 888-718-7946 for proper solution to the stain.

By having glycolic acid peel or resurfacing micro-dermabrasion peel. Or you can buy our products called fading cream with 2% quinine to bleach the skin.

A wood stain is used to change the appearance of the wood, such as to bring out the definition in the wood grain or match the look of another species of wood. Varnish, which may be water- or oil-based, provides a clear, transparent coating that is durable and hard. Varnishes also come in a variety of shines from flat to high gloss, and they may be water or oil based. Semi-transparent stains provide a color to the wood, but still allow the texture and natural grain to show through.

Unlike wood, PVC products keep their good looks year after year with just an occasional rinse with a garden hose. That’s the real beauty.

On a horizontal surface, Penofin may be expected to perform for an average of 9-18 months and 3-5 years on a vertical surface. The time will vary depending on the percentage of sunlight, weather, etc... Yes. All Penofin wood finish colors contain the same ingredients, just different amounts of colored pigments. However, you will not be able to make the surface lighter by applying a lighter shade. As always, you should test a small area before use.

No, "New Wood Defender" is recommended on pressure treated wood, as well as Cedar and Redwood during the first year of weathering. Wood Defender is a latex based product used to stabilize new exterior wood. This product is treated with fungicide to prevent the growth of mildew.

A film forming coating is a product that does not penetrate into the wood completely. A product that does not penetrate can result in premature peeling and or flaking. All of our wood deck stains will penetrate into the wood when applied properly.

No, not without proper surface preparation. Recommendation is to clean surface and remove previous finish, usually by use of a pressure washer or sanding.

Some are relatively easy to remove. Check out my links page for guidance. Others are more troublesome, and seem to keep coming back no matter what you do. If you’re experiencing any of the above problems, please consider using our services. We’re happy to help.

Both our cedar and our treated pine gazebos are constructed of kiln-dried woods, which means that you may seal or stain them at any time.

If your siding, shingles or shakes are warped, split or broken you need to renail or replace them before applying a finish. The lumber is inserted into a sealed cylindrical tank about 7 feet in diameter by 60 feet long. The tank is completely filled with a diluted solution of chemical and water, and then pressurized. This pressure forces the chemical into the wood fibers, making it "pressure-treated." No. In fact, most treated lumber is not mold and mildew resistant.

Crystal Clear sealers will not filter out UV rays for very long or at all. A transparent tinted sealer acts like sunglasses for your wood, filtering the UV rays and prolonging discoloration. You can use a clear sealer but it will gray very quickly.

Typically, all wood fence should not be stained or painted until a minimum of 60 days after installation. We recommend you check with your local paint store for the proper method of application.

Yes, staining the wood facing is an option. The wood facing, which is maple, has been coated at the factory with a clear vinyl sealer that is specially designed to accept stain. If you choose not to stain the wood facings, this sealer will adequately protect the wood during normal usage. If you choose to stain the wood facings, they must be removed from each rack (two screws) prior to staining and sealing and allowed to dry completely before reinstalling inside the Wine Captain®.

This is something I am not totally proficient in wood stain/poly-ing so I will compile this best I can. If someone puts out a better answer, I'll post that over this one. Tung Oil seems to be good for staining the wood. Use steel wool to sand down the wood before staining it again. A foam brush will spread it evenly. Wait til all the stain is down before wiping it off to get a better stain. for stain and poly, a minwax oil based one is what people use too.

No one can match finishes exactly, but an experienced professional with a good eye can get very close. For best results, consider refinishing the old floor with the same finish and sheen as the new one. Although wax finishes are easier to match, keep in mind that polyurethane finishes provide more protection than wax in kitchens.

Yes, you can because it is real wood! Once the veneer is applied, you can sand it and stain it just like you would any solid wood.

Pressure treated wood will not rot, but it will cup, warp, split and splinter if it is not sealed so water will not absorb and then evaporate in a number of cycles

Yes, provided the previous finish has sufficiently weathered to allow penetration of UV Plus for Pressure Treated Wood. For best results, clean the surface with Wood & Deck Cleaner, or sand to a new surface.

Stain should be applied first, prior to the application of any caulking or chinking, and allowed to thoroughly dry (24-72 hours after the last coat of stain depending on the weather). On new construction, this will be after the walls are erected, the roof is on, the windows have been installed, and any cleaning/borate treatments have been applied.

I live in a 105-year-old wood frame house. I have wasps in the exterior wall of my house. Do I need to have a pest control expert take care of this or can I do this myself? There are coming into the house through small holes in the plaster.

The answer depends on several factors. Strong, light hemlock makes a superb painting surface. Cedar, an excellent stain grade wood and is highly resistant to rot and insects. Mahogany's tight, smooth grain surface is very weather-resistant and also an excellent stain grade wood.

To repair watermarks, the moisture must be released by carefully sanding the finish film back below the damaged area. The key to this repair is to stop short of cutting completely through the finish film and exposing the wood underneath. Using any one of the following materials, apply the material onto a dampened cotton cloth, not directly onto the finish film. Rub the affected area gently in the direction of the grain. Then dry and apply furniture wax to another clean cloth and buff.

Yes, if the bark is on the wood. The bark beetle which spreads dutch elm disease overwinters and reproduces in elm fire wood which has the bark attached.

Our products are not stained...color is the true wood. Older stock has a diluted watco finish, new product is dipped in Weiman LemonOil for Wood, does not clog pores of wood. The Accessory Bar is a Peg Bar, not intended for earrings, only necklace,bracelet, other larger open ended danglings, such as keyrings etc. Hi I am interested in a rack for necklaces -- one that hangs on the wall. The rack is for my daughter whose lease prohibits the drilling of any holes.