To establish a lawn in western Washington, choose a combination of turftype tall fescue grasses and turftype perennial rye grasses. A mix that adds up to about 90% of these two grass seed types will grow well in either sun or light shade in western Washington. Turftype perennial ryegrass takes full sun and stands up to traffic. Turftype tall fescues are adapted to shadier locations. In combination, the mix works for a lawn in average light conditions.

In this area the best time to put grass seed down is in the spring during the months of April and May and in the fall during the month of September.

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In St. Louis, we are in the transition zone between ideals for northern and southern grasses. Tall Fescues are best adapted for our area where there are extremes of cold winters and hot summers.

Start with top-quality grass seed. Work the soil up a little with a rake. If you are overseeding consider using a slicing machine. Evenly sowing larger areas by hand is difficult, so use a spreader. Cover the seeds by raking a little soil over them. Fertilize and mulch only if it's on a hillside. Use very little mulch. Water, water, water.

Why not? Remember, just before a snow, top dress with a light sprinkle of soil so the birds don’t think you’re a horticultural philanthropist.

Fall is the best time to sow because there is a more developed root system by the time summer drought stress occurs. Spring is the second best time because the temperature and moisture is good for germination.

A blend of fine fescue, bluegrass and certain varieties of perennial rye can tolerate a fairly shady area. However, dense shade may require ground covers or shade type perennial plants. More important is cultural practices such as irrigation and more frequent light applications of fertilizer to make up this loss taken by trees.

Adopt six or seven cats. Seriously, though, cover the seed with one quarter inch of topsoil, pat down or roll gently. The faster it sprouts, the more you keep and the less the birds eat. You can also slit an old tennis ball and force it over the end of a six- to seven-foot piece of old garden hose. Draw two mean eyes and a nasty mouth, and place yellow strips of tape like Xs down the hose. Let this lie on the seeded area until the seed sprouts. Why? The birds think it’s a snake.

None, really. That’s not exactly true, but then they haven’t developed an Astroturf seed yet. There is no true shade grass; all grasses like some sun. However, the best of the bunch that can get along with less sun than the rest is Poa trivialis. Kentucky 31 tall fescue, Zoysia, Japonica, Zoysia matrella, Astoria bent, Highland and Penncross bents, as well as creeping red, Illahee, and Chew-lugs fescue, all will tolerate light shade.

Most any type of grass seed can be used in Hydroseeding, factors such as climate conditions will be the determining factor as to which grass type is recommended. A Pro Turf Care professional will help you make the right decision for your lawn.

We suggest you contact the program advisor, John Miles, Ph.D. to setup a meeting and a visit to the campus. Contact John at john_miles@wwu.edu.

Ryegrass can be mixed with fertilizer and applied to the pasture through the fertilizer spreader or it can be spread with a three point whirly bird type seeder. It can also be planted by a drill with a small seed box but care should be taken to not plant it deeper than ? inch. With broadcast seeding, pulling a chain harrow over the pasture after seeding will increase germination and survival of the plants.

Answer: Yes, grass seed application rates do vary according to soil type and aspect. On average, seeding of a general landscaping mixture containing Perennial ryegrass is around 25g per metre square. For soils which are heavier in texture such as clay loams, or soils with extreams of acidity or alkalinity, then seeding rates should be increased to between 35-50g per metre square. This helps to compensate for seedling mortality.

If you sow the seed first, let the grass grow to a height taller than 3 inches, then mow to a height of 3 inches, then apply FertilForce™ Pellet Concentrate! A pre-emergent, such as FertilForce™ Pellet Concentrate, prevents seeds from germinating. Therefore, it must be applied before the seeds germinate. It does not kill existing weeds. A post-emergent, such as FertilForce™ Pellet Concentrate kills already existing weeds. It is sprayed directly on the foliage of the weeds.

Response: We utilize a blend of bluegrass, and fescues that are bred for our climatic conditions. More Lawn Information

Dormant seeding is fine; however, seed should be planted so there is good seed to soil contact. In the event we get early snow, do not plant the seed over the snow. In warmer regions seeding is better done in the spring.

Burning off weeds only kills the tops and the? new seed, but the roots will return to haunt you again.

Plastic, concrete, and iron, none of which is available yet. In the South you can count on U-3 Bermuda grass, and in the North, Kentucky 31 tall fescue. I want to caution anyone who is planting a play area not to be tempted to add clover seed to these areas to fill in spots as it can cause injuries. Clover is slippery, and when running feet try to stop quickly, clover won’t cooperate.

As a rule, none. It’s not that many grasses won’t grow and hold on hillsides; it’s your safety I’m concerned with. More accidents occur from falls and severe cuts from mowers on hillside maintenance than anywhere else. For your own safety, I would prefer that you plant any of the low- or no-maintenance ground covers.

Inverted wire brushes set in concrete and painted green. For something softer, you can depend on Kentucky 31 or Alta, coarse, or Meadow coarse fescue.

Positively and without a doubt you can grow it from seed. Be my guest. Astoria, Highland, Penn-cross, or Seaside bents all can be grown from sown seed. Before tackling a bent lawn, though, make sure you understand that they take a ton of work and a special mower. What do you mean all? There’s perennial or annual. If you’re talking about brand names; they’re improved varieties of the same two.

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We believe that students need to study the broad spectrum of biology even though they may know the area they wish to focus. With this foundation in biology, students then specialize in their area of interest about their junior and senior years of study.