Cablewarm underfloor cable heating mats are manufactured from twin conductor, thin profile (3mm), double insulated and earth braided heating cables attached to a 500 mm open weave mat backing at 70mm centres to produce a standard 160 watts per square metre (W/m² ) output.

A high quality thermal barrier will slow the process of heat loss into the sub-floor, significantly improving the performance, speeding the initial warm up times and reducing the electricity costs. We recommend Faswarm under floor heating insulation.

For single heating cables the floor spacing pitch can be adjusted closer together down to a minimum of 50mm, this will result in a higher wattage output per m². If under floor cable heating mats are too long select the nearest heating mat down from within the Cablewarm™ range. If in any doubt always work out how many widths of 500mm will be required to fill the area of the floor you intend to heat.

This depends on a number of factors like the sub-floor type and insulation: a cement sub-floor will be slow to warm without a thermal insulation barrier, creating a significant drag on the performance of the floor heating. A layer of high quality insulation will have a dramatic effect in these circumstances, speeding up the initial warm up times to within 15-20 minutes. We recommend the use of Fastwarm® underfloor heating insulation.

This will depend on the size of the cable heating mat but an allowance of an extra 4 mm to your planned finished height is a reasonable figure.

It is highly recommended that you connect your under floor cable heating system via a fused spur (to isolate the heating system for future maintenance). The power supply should be from a safety contact breaker (RCD) to the thermostat, an electrician will be able to advise you.

Yes, a flexible floor tile adhesive will be required. The special polymers added to flexible adhesives will make allowances for any tile floor movements through heat expansion and contraction. Don't forget to also add a flexible grout to your list.

All Cablewarm™ underfloor cable heating systems come with a 10 year manufacturer's guarantee.

This is possible but there are a number of extra steps involved. All underfloor heating cables require fully encapsulating. The application of a leveling compound screed will be necessary to prepare the heated floor prior to laying the underlay and laminate flooring.

The answer is yes, but if a room has under floor heating, it is doubly important that it be properly installed to allow for expansion and contraction. We are able to supply manufacturers' technical specifications regarding underfloor heating.

Radiant floor heating is a comfortable and efficient form of heating where warm water circulates through flexible, specially designed tubing (PEX) installed under the floor. The heat radiates evenly up through the floor warming people and objects in the room and providing more comfort for less money.

All units carry a 10 year manufacturers warranty, however, if installed and used correctly the life-span is unlimited. It will easily last as long as your floor covering.

We would prefer that you did not. Floor heating systems are professionally installed through our trained personnel.

One method is to use hot water pipes placed below the floor. The water tubing is connected to a water boiler. The hot water from the boiler is circulating through the tubing to generate the radiant heat. Hydronic systems require maintenance for pumps and valves, are difficult to use for smaller areas and for retrofits in an existing home. Another alternative is the use of electric cables. These systems are fixed wattage and carry higher voltage (100V - 230V).

It's not difficult at all! The pipe is really easy to handle because of its metal core and it is simply laid out as per the AutoCAD drawings Unipipe provide. There are no joints to be made in the floor and the manifolds, which the pipes are connected to, are pre-assembled and just need fixing to the wall. Unipipe will also provide schematic layouts showing interconnection to boilers, cylinders etc. to ensure compatibility.

Yes, the control systems and design allow hotter water for radiators, towel rails, whilst cooler water flows to the floors.

No, it is a common misconception that this is the case; your floor heating system is turned on and off to suit your needs by the controls.

This will depend on the U Value of your room. This is an industry term for the total measure of resistance of each component that makes up the fabric of the building. Simply put, this means that old buildings will lose heat faster than modern buildings where the latest materials are incorporated. Insulation will go a long way towards offsetting these drawbacks, helping to retain the heat within the room.

Each installation is controlled by a programmable, digital thermostat. This will look after your day to day, on and off requirements to your own individual settings.

Ceramic tiles and ceramic encaustic tiles can be used with an under-floor heating system as they are superb conductors and retainers of heat and, having been fired to around 1,100F degrees, there is no risk of them cracking. Conversely, carreaux de ciments tiles are unsuitable for under-floor heating systems as they are in the first instance cured rather than fired and would likely be too thick for heat to dissipate effectively anyway.

Do not use the underfloor heating until the screed is completely dry i.e. 1mm per day must be allowed so for a 50mm screed allow 50 days. Do not use the underfloor heating to dry the screed, tile adhesive or grout.

Any flooring that uses a mud bed or thin set can be put over the Tuff Cable. Remember, no buildup is necessary because of the thinness of the cable.

The low surface temperature that an underfloor heating system generates should never reach a temperature that could cause damage to your floor surfaces.

Unlike traditional heating systems that just warm the air, radiant heating warms the floor and the objects in contact with the floor. The entire floor distributes a consistent, even, and quiet heating. There are no drafts and radiant floor heating takes the chill out of cold tile, marble and wood floors.

Sure you can. In fact, separate heating and cooling systems really make the most sense. Radiant floor heating keeps the heat near the floor where it does the most good; and air conditioning ductwork is placed only where it is needed to cool your home. The result is optimal comfort and efficiency all year 'round.

Yes. It will cost more to install, however it's important to remember that radiant floor heating can save 20 to 40 percent on your heating bills and significantly increase the resale value of your home. That, plus the increased comfort, make it worth the extra dollars for initial installation.

Under Floor Central Heating (UFCH) is gaining popularity in the UK. It uses a network of under floor polybutylene (PB) barrier piping to radiate heat from under the floor. Although the pipe system itself will be "corrosion and scale free", this will be connected to metal components such as the boiler, manifold system, circulatory pump, or possibly integrated with existing radiators.

Standard radiators operate with water temperatures of 60°C to 70°C. Under floor heating can operate at temperatures as low as 40°C. Heat pumps are far more efficient when operating at these lower temperatures. Because ground source heat pumps draw their energy from the ground they usually require a large collector area, this may not always be available, in this case an air source heat pump might be more suitable.

With a good level of floor insulation and the correct choice of heating cable to get the maximum coverage and output, then in most circumstances under-floor heating will provide the required room temperature. Most conservatories are not required to pass any building regulation U Values, so depending on the type of glass structure you have, supplemental heating may be required for odd occasions like cold winter nights.