A primer surfacer generally features better filling qualities and so should be used when trying to build film thickness. A primer/sealer acts more like a barrier between the substrate and the topcoat, which is important in certain situations where body work and substrate colors may not be uniform, or when coating over a potentially unstable surface.

Our Primer & Clear Sealer is water-resistant and suitable for most outdoor applications. But, if you want to use our products on a fountain, birdbath or other submerged surface, you will also need to use Sophisticated Finishes Waterproof Sealer, designed specifically for these types of applications. See similar questions...

Primers can be composed of any number of chemical compounds but in the end they can be thought of as a chemical bridge between an adhesive or sealant and the bonding substrate. This chemical bridge can be likened to a weld between two sections of metal. Most primers are specially designed molecules carried in a solvent vehicle. Once applied the solvent must evaporate and in some cases the active ingredients must undergo a chemical reaction. See similar questions...

Yes. It's like night and day. Spray can primer is thin and doesn't build very thick. In addition, it dries by evaporation and often shrinks whereas modern automotive primers cure by chemical reaction and don't shrink. Worst of all, spray-can primer isn't compatible with many automotive paints. But they do have their place, particularly for small repairs in inconspicuous areas. But for quality, long lasting repairs, stick with automotive-grade products. See similar questions...

GemSeal is made of a blend of high grade ball clays, water, refined coal tar and proprietory emulsifier milled into a coal tar emulsion to generate a paint like coating which insulates the petroleum-based asphalt from potential petroleum spillage and reduces the normal aging cycle of the asphalt. See similar questions...

The SNP primer is a synthetic oligonucleotide that is complementary to the sequence adjacent to the location of the target SNP, thus the next base (e.g., the dye-AcycloTerminator) added to the primer will be complementary to the base at the SNP location. During assay validation for a specific allele, we recommend designing both the forward and reverse SNP primers and using the one that performs better. Performance is affected by the sequence context around the allele. See similar questions...

RadonSeal penetrates the deepest (up to 4 inches) into concrete, reacts chemically, bonds and strengthens it. It seals sound concrete against water, vapor and radon gas. It provides the tightest seal and is permanent. The surface does not change, does not bead water, and remains paintable. LastiSeal penetrates very deep (2–4 inches) and hardens inside the concrete or bricks. It is manly designed for waterproofing. Unlike RadonSeal, it does not depend on the content of cement. See similar questions...

We have professional applicators available in some areas. Please contact us and advise your location. However, our products are designed for an easy do-it-yourself installation. Get a relative to do it or hire a handyman. The 4 pCi/L level is not a "safe" level. Radon gas is dangerous at any level. If this is a home for your family, you should always try to reduce radon to a minimum, particularly if you have children. See similar questions...

Again, depending on your deck's exposure to direct sunlight and precipitation elements, we recommend redoing the job anywhere from one to two seasons apart. Clear sealants are mainly water repellents that don't carry UV light protection. They have no trans-oxide pigments in their formulae that filter out damaging sun light. Colored products carry all the benefits of deck protection, including a UV light inhibitor. (General rule: the more color, the more pigment, the more UV protection) See similar questions...

Over-applying deck products is the worst thing you can do! They will never dry, or they will penetrate the deck, leaving a tacky residue all the time (that oily mess that you can track into the house!). All products are applied in different methods, but most are done with one full coat. See similar questions...

All sealers and stains are applied according to the manufacturer recommendations. They can be sprayed, brushed or rolled depending on the product and the specific deck. Some products require one coat and some require two. Please ask if you have questions regarding a particular product. See similar questions...

Pavement sealer is a water based product consisting of refined coal tar, clay, mineral fillers and water. The protective features of refined coal tar combined with the re-enforcing effect of mineral fillers results in a flexible, protective coating when applied to asphalt pavements. See similar questions...

Your choice of sealer depends on the look you wish to achieve. All sealers will inhibit stain penetrations; some will provide a high sheen or gloss while others will only enhance the color and provide little to no sheen. See similar questions...

It's an autobody product similar to household caulk but much more durable. It adheres well to most surfaces and is paintable. It's not recommended to use household caulk especially those that contain silicon on repairs. Straight latex caulk, although not as durable, can be used in a pinch. Paint adheres to it better. But for best results, head to your paint and autobody store and get some seam sealer. 3M makes a very good seam sealer. See similar questions...

Almost all products will cure on metal surfaces without a primer. Therefore, primers are recommended for use on non-metallic surfaces with anaerobics to achieve a practical cure speed. See similar questions...

Working with low surface energy substrates such as plastics often requires adhesion enhancements to achieve adequate bond strength. The need for primer varies upon application. Please feel free to contact our Customer Service at 1-800-888-0698, or use our online chat feature. See similar questions...