Don't ignore it. An oil pressure warning light (or low gauge reading) means one of two things: either your engine has dangerously low oil pressure (for a variety of reasons which we'll get to in a minute), or the oil pressure sending unit that triggers the warning light (or operates your gauge) has failed. First, do not keep driving if the oil warning light is on or your oil pressure gauge has dropped. Stop the engine, let it sit for a few minutes, then check the oil level.

Because the crank rides on roller bearings rather than hydraulic ones, the KLR has a low pressure spec: 11-21 psi at 90F and 4000 rpm. The ultimate info on adding an oil pressure sensor can be found in post # 61914 of the DSN_KLR archives. In short, the best way to add a pressure port is probably by stacking a second banjo fitting on one of the camshaft feeds. Beware that adding a tap may add a failure point.

Standard gauge reading is approximately 35 at 30 miles per hour and 10 at idle speed. See the General Lubrication Page. The line coming out of the tank is solid but quickly turns into standard gas line hose. It runs inside the frame and is close to the exhaust pipe. I haven't caught fire yet.

Yes, but probably not for very long. If the alternator warning light is on, it means your charging system is not producing enough current to meet the electrical needs of your vehicle and to keep the battery charged. That, in turn, means your vehicle is running on borrowed time off the battery alone. You can keep on driving as long as the battery has enough juice left in it to keep the ignition system, fuel injectors, fuel pump and other electrical accessories working.

If the light is on all the time, it could mean you simply forgot to release the parking (emergency) brake. The brake warning light remains on when the brake is set as a reminder. If the brake warning light remains on when the parking brake is released, then something is amiss. In some cases, the brake warning light may remain on if the switch on the parking brake pedal or lever is misadjusted. Nothing is wrong with the brakes and a simple adjustment should fix the problem.

Not unless you want to risk damaging your engine. When the temperature light comes on, it means your engine is overheating. An engine should not overheat if the cooling system is properly filled and is working normally -- even during hot weather or stop-and-go driving. Sometimes abnormal driving conditions such as towing a heavy trailer during hot weather may overload the cooling system's capacity to control heat, but usually a temperature warning light means trouble.

Please call the City Engineering and Inspection Department at 238-3103 to report a school zone warning light.

The traditional place is at the oil-pressure switch. On the SR20DE & SR20DET engines this is to the rear of the oil filter (which is on the right side of the engine, down low). An auto parts supplier should be able to supply the fittings you need. Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems the ECCS does not need the switch to be there, but you probably want to keep it. In this case a brass "T" fitting could be screwed into the original hole, and the switch and gauge take-off fitted to this.

Pressure is the amount of force pushing the flow of water. It's measured in pounds per square inch (PSI) and can be easily measured with a low cost pressure gauge. Knowing your starting pressure helps determine whether or not you need a pressure regulator, but it's not essential in a simple backyard system. Regular household pressure is often around 50 PSI.

Typical oil pressure range for engines running at rated speed and operating temperature with SAE 10w30 or 15w40 oil is: (207 to 310 kpa) 30-45 psi for 3176B, C-10, C-12, 40-88 for 3406E.

While some pressure drop across the filter is normal, the oil filter is not capable of regulating the lube system pressure. Low oil pressure is generally the result of another malfunction in the engine such as the oil pump losing its prime or the pressure-regulating valve not functioning properly.

The relief valve is faulty, it may be stuck, the piston in the relief valve may be letting oil into the back of the valve and hydrolicing it shut. If you drilled more holes in the valve check that no burrs are left in the piston bore.

When your car is cold, the oil is thicker. Normally this means when you first start your car the oil pressure will be 5 bar at idle. After warming up the car (typically, it takes approximately twice as long for the oil to reach operating range as your coolant does) it should drop to between 2 and 3 bar at idle. You don't need to worry unless it drops to or below 1 bar. If the oil pressure sender fails, typically the oil pressure will peg at 5 bar as soon as you turn the key to the on position.

Rpm. Quite simply, at lower rpm Rhoads Lifters have more time to leak down. As the rpm increases they have less time to leak down and at approximately 3500-4000 rpm virtually full lift and duration are restored.

Oil pressure is also directly related to flow volume. Synthetic oil is more uniform in molecular structure and provides less resistance to flow therefore in order to achieve the same flow volume as a petroleum oil, which has a higher frictional resistance to flow, it is possible that under some conditions, such as idling that a slightly lower oil pressure could be noticed, but that the oil flow volume delivered to the engine is adequate for the engine operating RPM and conditions.

This is an oil level light not an oil pressure light. It seems Yamaha is a bit off on the calibration for this sensor and maintaining the oil level between the two marks on the sight glass is insufficient. Topping off the oil level so it appears at the very top of the sight glass will usually cure the problem. Owners frequently report this condition immediately after an oil change so it appears many dealers are unaware of this problem.

stated in the owner's manual, there is a yellow button underneath the dashboard to the right of the steering wheel. Depress the button for a few seconds to reset the warning.

Yes and no. First these are not covered by generic OBD-II so the basic unit will NOT support this. Second, with some vehicles you don't actually need a tool (i.e., 2001+ BMWs now use the instrument cluster and Toyotas use the ignition key position and odometer reset button). Finally, in the case of GM, with our enhanced interface option we can actuate the Oil Life Reset and reset the Crank Learn (spanner wrench icon on the cluster).

There are several reasons that this light could be on. In any case, you should recharge your batteries. The possible reasons are: If the light glows for 10 seconds, the charge was interrupted but you can use the car since it does have a partial charge. Charge the cart as soon as convenient.