Commonly called tipburn, this could be due to excess fertilization, especially with perto-chemical fertilizers. Chemical insect sprays from aerosol cans can cause tip burning. A cold area, such as near windows or doors can also cause brown edges. Stop feeding with petro-chemical fertilizers and chemical insect sprays. Water well for 1-4 weeks depending on the plant and then resume feeding with Eartheart 18-16-9 All Purpose Plant Food or Eartheart All Purpose Insect Spray.

Brown edges are often a sign of salt damage; the salt contents in our tap water can cause the damage and is often compound by insufficient water. Thoroughly water the plant (shrubs to 2 feet deep; trees to 3 feet deep to leach excess salts away from the roots. See similar questions...

Moisture stress. Those are the points farthest from the roots, so they dry out first and get water last. It's the same as with our ear lobes, fingertips and toes. Those are the places where our circulatory problems show up first. All of that said, moisture stress can be brought on by insufficient water, of course, but it can also be prompted by excesses of fertilizer, root or trunk damage, hot and drying winds and other environmental issues. See similar questions...

Older leaves die - this is the orchids' trick to living indefinitely: they discard the oldest parts of the plant as they grow new shoots. See similar questions...

This is an indication of a fungal infection. Fungal infections are usually the result of warm temperatures, high humidity and low light levels. Treat the plants with a systemic fungicide such as Phyton 27. See similar questions...

Lance Harringtion wrote "I have hard water spots on my orchids leaves, can you tell me how to remove them without hurting the plant. I have tried vinegar and water." Here is a list of possible ways to remove the hard water spots. Thanks to all the members of OLD for their contributions on this subject. This makes the leaves clean and shiny. It also lasts a long time. This will not hurt the leaves the way general "leaf shine" type products may do. See similar questions...

The old leaves naturally turn yellow and fall off as new leaves are produced. If your new leaves start to turn yellow, the first thing to check is the amount of light your orchid is receiving (review the culture sheet for the genus/species of your orchid). If light is not a problem, then check to see if you orchid is being subjected to low temperatures. There are also orchids that will lose all of their leaves naturally like the Dendrobium nobile hybrids do and will appear to be a "dead stick. See similar questions...

Leafcutter ants will collect leaves for the fungus farms. Ants are a vital part of our desert ecosystem and in most cases damage is tolerable. Usually your plant will leaf out again and be fine. Ant poisons and bait are not effective; set up a physical barrier such as a tree wrap or Tangle foot to minimize damage. See similar questions...

Nashville tap water contains approximately 1 ppm phosphate. Available iron will chemically combine with this phosphate forming a compound which is insoluble by the plants. An iron deficiency condition known as iron chlorosis may result in these plants. The plants turn yellow and the leaves and stems both become very brittle. Fertilizers containing iron supplements will correct this condition. See similar questions...

If leaves turn yellow slowly, there may be too much lime in your water. Try to reduce watering, check soil pH and unlock the lime with Eartheart 18-16-9. This plant may need a transplant into fresh, high quality potting soil. Try charcoal in the potting soil and even a drink of "lukewarm" hot tea to adjust the pH. See similar questions...

This is definitely a symptom of illness from insects or diet. Check the leaf and soil for insects. Use a magnifying glass if you need to, then isolate this plant from all the others. If you find bugs on this plant, spray with Eartheart Insect Spray. See similar questions...

This indicates SHOCK due to a sudden change in temperature, change in sunlight or too much harsh petro-chemical fertilizer. Trim upper growth, re-pot if in a pot, and then apply Eartheart 18-16-9. See similar questions...

Over watering is the culprit, so back off. It will not reverse the rot, but you can take off the leaves from the stem, allow it to cure for a day and repot in pasteurized well-drained soil. See similar questions...

Some plants require a change in diet during their growth cycle. For example, young plants should start with a high phosphate plant food like FloweR PoweR 10-30-8, then change to Eartheart 18-16-9 once established. See similar questions...

A - It sounds like damage caused by thrip. These tiny brown insects should be controlled early in the season. Control can be difficult because the insects burrow deep within flower buds and under petals. Insecticides labeled for rose and flower insects can be sprayed directly on buds but will only help if they come into direct contact with the insect. Removal of old and infested blossoms can help reduce populations. Remove debris from around plants in fall. See similar questions...

That's a fungal leaf spot called black spot. Some varieties are highly susceptible to it and will require weekly spraying with a systemic insecticide just to exist. Without the protection the plants grow stemmy and weak. Other types, including the recognized EarthKind roses identified by Texas A&M, are far less prone to the disease and can exist without heroic spraying. See similar questions...

What are the steps I should take to plant the rose "Queen Elizabeth" in the ground and be successful with it. See similar questions...

The leaves at the base of the plant are the oldest leaves, you can remove these leaves by firmly pulling them off the plant. See similar questions...