You will probably want to select a wood tone closest to the one already in your unit. You may want to consider that lighter wood colors don't show the nicks and scuffs as readily as darker wood tones.

We can send you the most common stains/colors used. Custom colors may also be negotiated at additional cost.

We can utilize most any species that is suitable for structural purposes. However, we often use Douglas Fir because it combines beauty and structural strength comparable to many favorite hardwoods without the shrinkage and weight issues.

Our customers use just about every kind of wood imaginable. There is not a right or wrong type of wood. We do use Birch, Maple, and Walnut for our prototype models that you see in the catalog, and web site pictures.

We have two color schemes, one with solid painted lugs and translucent tubes, the other is full translucent. The translucent is a color tint over the carbon weave and looks spectacular in the sunlight.

We recommend Sikkens wood finish inside and out on the logs. We have tested many products and found Sikkens to be the best. On the outside, it needs to be applied every four to five years. For your convnience, we are also a dealer of Sikkens wood finish.

Upgrading to steel posts was a somewhat popular option in the past but always had inherent problems (steel promotes rot in the wood). Now we are able to offer PVC posts, with a lifetime warrantee against rot, that will fit almost any wood fence style.

The wood is untreated, kiln-dried Port-Orford cedar. Applying a finish is completely optional, and most people choose not to, relying instead on cedar's natural rot-resistance. You can, however, preserve the appearance and extend the life of your raised beds using a nontoxic finish.

The kangaroo lace I use is theoretically available in black, chocolate, brown, tan, and natural (varies from cream to white). I have made beaucoup tan lanyards because I purchased a lifetime supply of tan kangaroo lace from Tandy Leather before the wheels came off their lace cutting operations. I have also made about any combination of variegated lanyards one can imagine. Some were more pleasing than others. The customer's preference is right (relatively).

Sikkens Log Pre-Treatment is not available in your area, we recommend using a non-film forming wood preservative with no water repellent additives. No, Sikkens Log Pre-Treatment will not prevent the wood from graying. It does not contain any pigments so the wood will begin to grey during the six month to one year waiting period. This is not a major concern. The cleaning process we recommend will completely remove this slight surface graying.

DeYoung & Sons sells a full line of Guardsman products to care for your fine wood furnishings. Guardsman products contain no silicone, which can be an abrasive and damage your furniture's appearance by getting into the pores of the wood. Guardsman products protect your furniture from scratches and abrasions. For more information on Guardsman products, click here.

A.) Hesco carries two products that we recommend. First, the Elky Pro Natural Oil Soap (SA-236). This is a mild multipurpose cleaner used for many household applications. This is recommended for cleaning finished wood products because it gently removes the toughest dirt, grease, and grime without the use of harsh detergents. Elky Pro Natural Oil Soap can also be used to wash laundry stains, leather, and vinyl. Another alternative is Murphy's Oil Soap (FS-103).

Most of our Northern White Cedar is harvested from Vermont, with a small additional amount from the Adirondacks in New York.

Ned seems to have an affinity for hard maple, as nearly every model was first made in that hardwood. They were all pretty much changed to other offerings in the later Gibson years. We've combed through all of the old lit and here's our best guess so far (in order of introduction): P series - Hard maple, also listed as rock maple. Chances are this wood was used for it's entire, brief production run as a graphite neck model.

This is because dark colors streak and fade. This applies to all resurfacing methods. The darker the color, the faster the degradation. We do no offer or recommend a white surface. It will in time, 4-5 years, start to turn yellow. This is true of all epoxies. We recommend the light blue, which will give you a very natural look. We do not recommend black because it will look like a lagoon in a short period of time. If you want a dark rich color we recommend charcoal.

The most popular and common is the blenheim. Blenheim is white and a rich ruby color. Not brown! Also, not a lot of freckles. Tri-color is black, tan and white. Again, not freckled. Ruby is pure ruby. A miss-marked ruby will have a very little white on the head or chest. No difference in quality of the temperament or dedication. It’s only difference is price. Black and tan is pure black and tan appropriately marked.

All colors are acceptable. The most commonly seen are the fawns with black masks, with fawn ranging from nearly white or pale champagne, to golden, red, wolf-sable, or badger. Other colors you may see are pintos (with or without a black mask), white, black, blue w/black mask, fawn or cream with a liver mask and nose, brindled, and even brindled pintos. The least commonly seen colors are the brindles, liver or blue fawns, and the blacks.

When using light & sound mind machines, different people see different things. Some see just the flashing light. Most see swirling patterns that have been compared to psychedelic light shows or fractals; some in just red and black, but others in full color. And a few report seeing detailed, virtual reality like scenes. So people frequently post to the Mind Machine Digest mailing list asking why they don't get the primo visuals.