Gypsum is not the solution to your problem. Gypsum improves drainage and soil structure on alkaline or "sodic" soils in arid regions. In these soils, sodium accumulates in the topsoil and destroys the soil structure, forming a crust that is difficult for water to penetrate. When gypsum is added to these soils, it reacts with the troublemaking sodium, so that it can then be leached out with heavy irrigation. Sodic soils are not a problem in humid climates. See similar questions...

You shouldn't have to do any mechanical aerating if you follow an organic program. Soil microbes will till and aerate your soil for you. As your soil develops tilth from the microbes digging for you, the soil will become softer and retain more water from each watering. See similar questions...

By putting a layer of soil conditioner of about 75mm on top of the clay soil then dig it in and mix it with the soil, the organic matter will help break down the heavy clay lumps and make the soil more manageable. This is best done annually. See similar questions...

It is a product designed to enhance soil texture, promote aeration and aggregation as a means to eliminate the detrimental effects of Compaction, Crusting, Erosion, Run Off that aids in the suppression of common soil borne diseases like Root Rot, Fusarium, Verticillium and Damping Off. See similar questions...

Skip MNZ4 - You have 8 inches of good soil in Zone 5 so I would think you could plant the bulbs at 6, maybe 7, inches. The problem is not that tulips won't do well in clay but it's that the clay underlayment acts as a barrier to good drainage and if you have really wet conditions this may, indeed, lead to rotting of the bulbs. The Hyacinths can go in at the same depth as the tulips while the Muscari can go in at 5 inches. See similar questions...

Nothing will change in terms of the approval and construction standards if a septic system is applied for under the Interim Ordinance. The Interim Ordinance will allow certain types of advanced systems to be installed (systems which have been approved in the past via a Board of Supervisors' variance). Standard septic systems will continue to be allowed under in the new Ordinance using the same approval and construction standards currently in place under the Interim Ordinance. See similar questions...

Clay is an important component of healthy soil because it holds moisture and nutrients well, but too much restricts root growth and diminishes important pore space for air. A balance between having good drainage, nutrient holding, and water holding capacity, is best achieved by adding organic matter such as compost, peat and/or organic soil amendments. See similar questions...

The key to gardening in Colorado is soil. Apply 3 inches of organics on top of your clay soil, which should be rototilled to a 6- to 10-inch depth. We recommend Nature's Yield® Compost. See similar questions...

Good soil does contain particles of clay, sand, and silt, however sand does not improve clay soil. Adding sand to clay makes cement! To improve any soil, always add organic matter. See similar questions...

Gypsum is generally added to provide a calcium source to displace sodium in the soil. (Gypsum is calcium sulfate, 22.5% calcium). For most soils in Montana east of the continental divide, the soil is already saturated with respect to calcium (as calcium carbonate or lime). Hence, adding gypsum to a soil already saturated with calcium simply elevates the concentration of calcium, favoring formation of calcium carbonate. See similar questions...

Polymer clay is an oven bake modeling material composed of polymers, resins, coloring agents, and fillers. When baked properly the finished product cures into a tough, very flexible and durable solid material. The flexibility enables the finished piece to be dropped or handled without breaking. It is not rock hard like an "earth clay" where it will shatter if dropped. See similar questions...

A white mineral that is milled, heated, hydrated and formed into drywall; or used to manufacture plaster. See similar questions...

Once again, for small projects, there is no need for mechanisation of the soil preparation. A good grid trough (into which the soil is shovelled) will eliminate stones and other big components and will produce very good results. If a higher output is required, we recommend the use of a crusher that will reduce the lumps and stones and give a very high consistent quality to the final product. See similar questions...

By an impeller fan made of hardened steel which reduces the litter at a 3:1 ratio. Even glass - such as beer bottles - is safely pulverized into a sand-like substance thus eliminating your safety concerns. See similar questions...

The weight given to standardized admissions exams varies from program to program and discipline to discipline. If your exam score is not reflective of your academic accomplishments and capabilities, it is often a good idea to ask one of your faculty recommenders to address it in the letter. This can be particularly effective if you have taken advanced courses or done independent study with that professor. See similar questions...

Answer: One of the most popular organic fertilizers is fowl manure which, if allowed to sit for a few days gives off Ammonia. So fowl manure contains most of its Nitrogen in the Ammonia form. Now most plants like their Nitrogen in the Nitrate form, and soil bacteria help them by converting Ammonia Nitrogen to Nitrate Nitrogen. See similar questions...

Please visit USDA's Natural Resources Conservation Service web site at http://soils.usda.gov for more information about soils. See similar questions...

Rapid Set cement in not a gypsum cement. Unlike gypsum, Rapid Set® cement can be used in wet environments. See similar questions...

We get our clay from a distributor in Minneapolis that mixes clay from a number of different sources. See similar questions...