We recommend painters using alkyd resin painting mediums wait three months before varnishing. Painters using an oil and damar mix in their painting mediums should wait six months. But, if an artist has a painting that is only dry on the surface and that painting is sold, we recommend the artist varnish only with Gamvar Picture Varnish. For this purpose, thin Gamvar with approximately 20% Gamsol or other high quality Odorless Mineral Spirits (OMS) to make a very light coating.

A spot varnish is applied only to specific parts of a printed piece, to highlight those areas or add to the overall visual impact.

Don't varnish WoodBlocX. Water will get under the varnish and turn it black within a year. Unless you want to treat it like a boat and varnish it every year! Do paint WoodBlocX with any exterior wood paint if you want it coloured, or just leave it natural. The natural green colour will last for several years before fading to a grey. You can always paint it later when this occurs.

Yes, many of our artists and clients use their own varnishes and texturing medium and gels. We encourage experimentation and creativity with our prints. We are happy to make available to our clients, the same gicl?e glaze product we use everyday in our workflow. The water-based formula has been developed specifically for coating pigment based prints on fine art media. We sell it by the quart and gallon so you can bring it home and use it yourself.

with some oil based stains, varnishes contain ingredients that, not only smell and taste bad when heated, but also are very harmful if the fumes are inhaled.

It is a protective coating that is painted on your child's teeth to help prevent cavities. It can also help areas of early decay from getting worse. Visit our website's Upcoming Events page to find the date of the next Fluoride Varnish Clinic near you.

We usually recommend, and only stock, high-quality water-based varnish products, as they are non-toxic, non-yellowing and quick drying. Please note that this new, water-based technology has only really matured in the last few years, and some well-known and widely-sold products are not very durable. They can need re-doing in under a year in some cases, whereas our varnishes are designed to last at least 5 years, some up to 20, subject to conditions and regular maintenance, etc.

Gloss as a finish is not popular as it shows up any minor imperfections in the floor. However, it is sometimes used effectively on tropical/darker woods for a particular look. Satin, which is between gloss and matt, is the popular contemporary look. It has a sheen and reflects some light, and is forgiving of the odd minor imperfection. Matt, although still a small part of the market, gives a very natural waxed look.

Professionals use rollers. However, if you are doing one or two rooms, you can achieve better results with a large inexpensive floor brush, which we stock. If doing a hardwood floor in a large area, it would be worth using a roller or T-bar.

Normal varnishes tend to yellow more than cationic varnishes. In addition, a primer coat of Water based varnish before UV varnish also reduces yellowing. Usage of OBA free boards also tend to reduce yellowing.

Due to its flexibility COELAN? will expand and contract along with changes in the wood due to moisture, heat, and mechanical stress. And; leaks are usually stopped. In addition; COELAN? is extremely resistant to UV and withstands damage due to abrasion and foot traffic. In fact, COELAN? contains re-growth properties which allow the coating to automatically mend minor damage due to scuffing and abrasion.

Wood flooring can be sanded and refinished but we would recommend professional assistance is sought when considering this option. See information on sanding wood flooring

Yes, we only sand/varnish the treads (not the riser as most people paint the riser matt black). The cost is usually ?25.00 per tread.

We use an acrylic lacquer which has a satin finish. It is user-friendly, hard-wearing and quick drying. Gloss and matt lacquer can be ordered on request.

Yes. Allow seven to ten days drying time for surface to be completely dry and cured. Both water- and oil-based products can be used.

Depending on the location and style of the woodwork, I generally start by applying a safe stripper, followed by heat guns, scrappers and sanders to get the rest off. I then clean the wood, followed by several layers of sanding by hand and machine, and then taping.