No, the practice of burning CCA-treated wood is unacceptable. Burning treated wood concentrates and releases the preservative chemicals in the ash and smoke particulates. Although warning against burning treated wood is specified on the wood preservative labels, industry and stakeholder groups are working to enhance user awareness of proper handling and disposal of preservative treated wood products.

Prior to treatment, small cuts are made into the surface of the wood to improve penetration of the preservative solution. The wood is then stacked and loaded into a sealed pressurization chamber where the wood's natural moisture is removed by vacuum and replaced with the treatment solution which gives the wood a greenish tinge. The chamber is then pressurized, forcing the solution into the wood.

For decay resistance, it doesn't matter. However, kiln drying tends to reduce warping, as it is a more controlled form of drying.

In a word, NO. PT wood is used for it's resistance to insects and decay, but it gets these properties through the use of modern science. It contains arsenic as well as insecticides, fungicides and solvents. When burned these are released into the air in the smoke. It is not fit for man nor beast!

CCA-treated wood is used primarily for construction lumber and timbers, utility and construction poles, marine timbers and pilings, fence posts and wood foundation lumber.

CCA wood preservatives are not available to the general public. These types of wood preservatives are only available to specially trained commercial or industrial users. Precautions to be taken when using and disposing of wood preservative chemicals are outlined on the product label. Only purchase CCA-treated wood that is visibly clean and free of surface residues, as these may contain dislodgeable toxic chemicals.

When plants grow they use carbon dioxide from the air to make their wood. If you burn the wood the carbon is released back to the atmosphere. As long as you grow another plant/tree then a stable carbon cycle is set up. So ,the use of sustainably produced wood as a fuel does not increase the carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere.

Treated wood is necessary if the wood is expected to stay wet for extended periods of time or is contact with the ground. Guidelines to define "extended periods" are under development at Forintek. Treated wood is also recommended if wood is used in an area of termite or wood-boring beetle activity.

Treated wood can last virtually as long as you want it to, given the correct specification, quality control and installation. For example, service lives of over 60 years have been documented for treated fence posts in ground contact. However, as with any product, incorrect specification, inadequate quality control or major errors in installation can result in service lives less than expected.

Screws cannot be hot-dipped galvanised but are generally available in stainless steel. There are other types of coated deck screws on the market for decking.

No. The finishing properties of wood treated with waterborne preservatives such as CCA or borate depend primarily on the wood properties, not the preservative treatment. However, you'll get more life out of your wood finishes, and especially stains, when you're using CCA-treated wood. CCA-treated wood contains chromium, which is known to decrease the effects of weathering. The effects of the newer preservatives (CA and ACQ) are unclear.

The outside of a wooden hot tub doesn't require any type of treatment and nothing is required to extend it's lift. If desired for an aesthetic look, painting, staining or some other finish can be applied to match a surrounding deck. Nothing should be applied to the inside of the hot tub.

Our wood is kiln dried, not treated. Kiln drying is a process of heating the boards to reduce the amount of moisture to less than 10 percent. Kiln drying helps prevent the boards from cracking and warping after installation. For more information about MAR-K bed wood and the different options available, see our Online Catalog.

Wood such as oak, cherry, ash and other dense types are good to burn. Their moisture content is much lower than the softer types such as pine and cottonwood.

We cannot say exactly. 4 to 6 cords should heat most any 3-bedroom, 2,500-square-foot home in Northern Minnesota, where the temperature can drop to 40 below zero. 2 to 3 cords of wood in milder regions of the country. Many people can purchase a full year's supply of quality firewood for a Charmaster Furnace for the price of one month's normal heating bill using oil, gas or electric heat. We would burn mostly unsplit wood if the diameter is 10 inches or less.

No. Acucraft Fireplace Systems have a firebrick lining that lines the inside of the fire box. We recommend building a fire directly on the firebrick, which will continue to radiate heat after the fire has dwindled. Also, by burning directly on the firebrick, the fire burns the logs more efficiently by burning the entire log which eliminates unburned log chunks.

Wood can be burned in a smokeless zone if the appliance (i.e. the stove or boiler) has an Exemption Certificate. Companies which manufacture stoves with Exemption Certificates include Clearview, Vermont Castings, Dovre, Dunsley Yorkshire Stoves, Morso and Jotul. A full list can be found at http://www.uksmokecontrolareas.co.uk/appliances.php?country=e. Obtaining an Exemption Certificate is an expensive and lengthy process.

No. Gas fireplaces are designed to burn gas only. Burning wood would damage the fireplace and could be very dangerous.

The beauty of the Luminarium is that you get a quality fire experience without the smoke, ash, or blowing embers associated with other types of logs. Using any other type of log may create a safety hazard and will damage the unit due to excessive heat.

The heartwood of naturally durable species such as western red cedar, yellow cypress and white cedar will all resist decay to some degree, but it is variable. The amount and type of natural fungi-toxic chemicals deposited in the heartwood determine how durable the wood is. The sapwood of all species is considered non-durable. Heartwood of second growth may be less durable than the best of the old growth but probably less variable.