We can treat just the attic or just the crawlspace. Our process is much more effective at decontaminating these areas than other old-fashioned methods.

Seal up the largest air leaks in your house--the ones that whistle on windy days, or feel drafty. The worst culprits are usually not windows and doors, but utility cut-throughs for pipes ("plumping penetrations"), gaps around chimneys and recessed lights in insulated ceilings, and unfinished spaces behind cupboards and closets. Better yet, hire an energy auditor with a blower door to point out where the worst cracks are. See similar questions...

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. It depends if there is space between ceiling joists. You need at least 24 inches opening between joists for the air cleaner. If you have adequate clearance, an attic crawlspace installation is similar to the drop ceiling scenario. Cut the appropriate sized hole in the ceiling material and finish the edges with the supplied trim. You'll need to use mounting hardware to support the weight of the unit from a suitable part of your building's framework. See similar questions...

The attic fan should be centrally located. The fan should be mounted at the rear part of your roof. The hole should be 24 inches down from the peak of your roof. See similar questions...

Yes! The load capacity of the trusses above attached, enclosed garages with ceiling acces typically have the same capacity requirements as the rest of the residential roof. See similar questions...

House mice are considered some of the most troublesome rodents in the United States. An attic that has served as a mouse home may have shredded ductwork. Mice may tunnel through the insulation, rendering it less effective. Chewing on wires and tearing insulation off pipes is not uncommon. You may come home from vacation to find your home has flooded because of mice chewing on water lines. See similar questions...

Most homeowners find it easiest to use batt insulation. Always use unfaced batts, as the paper of foil vapor retarder can trap water vapor in the original insulation, causing moisture problems. If possible, install the new insulation perpendicular to the attic floor joists to reduce heat loss through the joists. Loose fiberglass or cellulose can also be used, by pouring it and leveling it with a board or other implement. See similar questions...

That's almost a judgement call on your part. If you live in a hot climate, the roof would be better. If you live in a cold climate, the attic floor would be better. But there are a couple of factors to consider. If you install No-Tear on the roof, you also need to cover the gable ends (that's the part that looks like a big triangle). If you live in a cold climate, installing it on the attic floor will also reduce winter heat loss (see "What if I can't get the best air gap?"). See similar questions...

One problematic technique is to put radiant barrier directly on the underside of the roof sheeting. What happens in any attic that is not extremely well ventilated is that the surface of the radiant barrier gets very hot and the heat is conducted and convected into the air of the attic causing the attic and its insulation to get quite hot. See similar questions...

No! Installing a humidifier in a potentially freezing environment, no matter what type or brand, could cause serious water damage to your house. See similar questions...

Yes in most cases you can. It is not recommend if your insulation is contaminated by vermin, moist, or mildewed. See similar questions...

Only if you have un-sealed gaps between your attic and your living space. Such gaps are often found in closets, around light fixtures, and around utilities such as electrical outlets, pipes, etc. See similar questions...

Bats are among the world's least appreciated and most endangered animals. I suggest that you visit Bat Conservation International's Web site, which has links to a great deal of information on bats, including a link that provides information on how to find a reputable bat removal service -- one that does not harm the bats. Your local university extension office may also provide information and assistance. Our Web site contains much information on bats. See similar questions...

Crawl spaces are real simple to understand and deal with. When you vent crawl spaces you bring in hot, humid air and cause moisture and mold problems. The ground surface is typically colder than the dew point temperature of the exterior air. The underside of crawl space floor insulation is radiation coupled to the ground surface and is very close to the same temperature of the ground. See similar questions...

Do Not Disturb It! Any disturbance has the potential to release asbestos fibers into the air. Limiting the number of trips to the attic and shortening the length of those trips can help limit your potential exposure. Do not try to remove the insulation by yourself. Hire professionals trained and certified to safely remove the material. See similar questions...

Generally yes but potential may be limited and/or expensive due to limited available height, structural constraints, building status (listed or protected), planning requirements and conditions. See similar questions...

The attic/roof of houses accounts for about 15% of heat loss and 22% of summer heat gain in older two-story houses in our climate, and often a higher percentage in single-story houses. Our energy audit can identify several problems associated with attic insulation: by-pass leaks, insulation voids, roof heat gain. See similar questions...

attic fan or power attic ventilator is a specially designed fan for exhausting hot air from your attic. Attic fans are mounted to the roof of your home. They pull cooler air from inlet vents while pulling 140 to 150 degree air from out of your attic. See similar questions...

No, hot climates will not harm the clay. Its melting point is over 400 degrees F. We do recommend that ornaments be stored flat and not have a lot of weight stacked on top of them. See similar questions...