Citrus are usually fertilized three times a year - Valentine's Day, Memorial Day and Labor Day. newly planted trees do not need fertilizer the first 1-2 years. Use Ammonium Sulfate, Ammonium Phosphate or Citrus Food fertilizer. The amount of fertilizer need per year depends on the age, the size, and the type of tree. For example, a medium-sized adult tree 5-6 years after planting needs 6.2 pounds of Ammonium Sulfate per year (split into three applications).

Thrice is nice. That's the recommendation on a bag of citrus fertilizer from Arizona's Best. And it makes sense if you think about it. First feeding comes near the end of winter which means February while the tree is somewhat dormant possibly looking a little under the weather because of a number of unexpected freezing nights so the leaves look a bit dried and discolored.

The trees should be fertilized at least three times a year in October, February and June. For any type of citrus, measure the circumference at the base of the trunk and calculate one pound of citrus fertilizer for every inch measured. Then divide this amount into three applications. Keep the area underneath the tree clear of all grass, weeks and mulch.

Citrus is to be fertilized three times per year: February or March, May or June, and October or November at the rate of one pound per year of the tree's age with a maximum of thirty pounds per year application. A 6-6-6 or 4-6-8 citrus special with minor elements or trace elements would be the recommended analysis. Apply the fertilizer to the entire rooting area, which extends from the trunk out to several feet beyond the drip line of the tree.

Trees often require fertilization at some point in their life span. Remember, most tree’s natural environment is the forest. There nutrients are continually recycled as leaves and other plant, and even animal material, fall and decompose on the forest floor. When you put a tree in a landscape setting it is usually deprived of these nutrients. One thing you can do is try to recreate the tree’s natural environment by providing mulch rings. See Mulches.

We use several methods to fertilize trees and shrubs. These include, Injection of a liquid fertilizer solution into the soil and root zone of the trees. Drilling of holes into the soil that is then filled with fertilizer and Injecting fertilizers into the trunk of the tree. Your Arborist has prescribed the best means of fertilizing your trees and shrubs. If your trees are in a turf area, you may see dark green tufts of fast growing grass in the areas under and around the trees.

We recommend using Jirdon’s Tree and Shrub fertilizer. It is formulated specifically for trees and shrubs in the Rocky Mountain region. You should apply a light application around May 15, June 15, and July 31. If you are fertilizing less often shoot for May 15 and July 15. You don’t want to fertilize after the first part of August. You don’t want to push too much new growth late in the season.

The general rule for pruning citrus trees is DON'T. Only prune dead or crossing branches and a wayward branch. Do not prune in the summer, you could leave branches or trunk exposed to the sun which may cause sunburn. Never prune more than 15% at one time.

The more tropical citrus fruits like Key Lime, Tahiti Lime and Pummelo, all the other citrus varieties do well but are more cold hardy. On oranges, you may not get good orange color because of the lack of cool weather, but the fruit is fine. The most important factor when selecting a citrus for your yard is the root stock - use lemon types (rough lemon and macrophylla are the best) for our alkaline soils.

When a tree is purchased through the City’s Share-the Cost Parkway Tree Planting Program, the resident is given a sheet of instructions when the tree is planted. The instructions contain information on fertilizer, etc.

I don't think there's one "correct" answer to this one. The general rule of thumb is for Paphiopedilums to fertilize every 1 to 2 weeks at 1/2 the strength of the recommended dosage for other orchids such as Cattleya's and Phals. I haven't had any problems following that guideline and my plants grow quickly and strongly. For Phragmipediums I've ended up cutting back to 1/4 strength doses at most, as I've been developing a lot of fertilizer burn on the leaf tips recently.

Applying botanical insecticides, horticultural oils, and insecticidal soaps to your plants can deter hungry insects. For more detailed information, read the articles Insect Management in the Home Garden and Natural Products for Insect Pest Management. If you need help choosing the right treatment for your plants or locating the recommended products, contact your county Extension office.

Spring is an ideal time to plant new citrus trees. Garden centers have a good supply to pick from, and the trees are ready to begin root and shoot growth. Make sure you give the new tree a sunny site and space the trees at least 12 to 15 feet apart. If you miss the spring planting season, don't worry. Container-grown trees are available year-round. They can be added to the landscape anytime.

Two Possibilities: Citrus Leaf Miner Damage - This insect is the maggot of a tiny fly that lays eggs into the leaves. Maggots hatch from the eggs and "mine" their way through the leaves causing them to cup and crinkle. "Squiggly" lines can also be seen in the affected leaves. This insect is not harmful to the health or fruit production of established trees. Young citrus trees may benefit from sprays of horticulture oil which interfere with the fly's ability to lay eggs into the leaf.

Although lawns benefit greatly from a late fall fertilizer, trees and shrubs do not. The fertilizer, which is mainly nitrogen, encourages new shoot growth in woody plants. Encouraging new growth at the end of the growing season may allow a greater chance of winter damage. Late fall pruning is also not recommended, unless the branches are damaged or my break to a heavy snow load. Grass clippings do not make good mulch for roses.