Although there are times when an alternative might work better, the most cost effective method of installing iron fences tends to be to set them in concrete.

This depends on many factors, including the type of material used and the climate conditions in your area (snow loads, frost, winds, etc.). The American Fence Association (AFA) recommends that you consult with an experienced local fence contractor (preferably an AFA member) who is familiar with the specifications and standards associated with fence installation. See similar questions...

The American Fence Association (AFA) recommends that you consult with an experienced local fence contractor (preferably an AFA member) to ensure the type of wood you choose is compatible with the soil in your area. BACK TO TOP See similar questions...

The recommended procedure for restoring a wrought iron fence with this problem is to either sand blast or wire brush the fence to remove the rust. Once the rust is removed, you should apply a zinc enriched primer, cover it with one or two coats of finish preferably with a rust inhibitor. Just like your car, you can enhance the life span of an iron fence by simply cleaning and polishing the fence with a good automotive wax. BACK TO TOP See similar questions...

Fortin Welding & Manufacturing Inc. of Columbus, Ohio warrants all new products manufactured at the Columbus location, against defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one year from substantial completion and agrees to repair or replace any defective product without charge. IMPORTANT: This warranty does not cover damage resulting from accident, misuse, or abuse, lack of reasonable care, the affixing of any attachment not provided with the product or loss of parts. See similar questions...

Our factory made residential and commercial fence systems offer long-lasting, no-maintenance fencing at affordable prices. Our custom made Iron railings offer maintenance-free strength and elegance - complete and ready for easy installation. Our custom made Iron Estate gates are perfectly balanced to hang properly with all the right sizes, proportions, and ornamentation to suit your home. See similar questions...

Yes. Holes need to be core drilled through the tile and concrete. The posts are then fastened into these using a special cement based grout. See similar questions...

Your choice of fence post will depend on the animal being contained, the lifetime you expect from the fence, and the topography (flat or rolling terrain). If you still don't know what type of post to use, the Fence Builder™ Planning Tool will recommend a selection for you. Keep in mind that corner and end posts (including gates) carry much of the strain, so for most applications these need to be sturdier than the line posts. See similar questions...

We recommend CCA-treated or Creosote Southern Yellow Pine. These fence posts are strong and will add to the safety of the fencing. Typical: Corner/End Post 6" - 8" x 8', Line Post 4" - 5" x 8'. See similar questions...

It depends on the lay of your land and the breed of horse you plan to contain. For level to gentle terrain 12' spacing can be utilized. As the terrain is more severe or curving you should consider closer spacing of 10' or 8 '. Keep in mind with closer spacing you will increase the strength of your fence. See similar questions...

Actually the posts are not cracking. They are undergoing a process known as "checking" which results from the natural seasoning (drying out) of any piece of lumber, but particularly in any full round or square piece of timber. See similar questions...

All of our awnings come complete with concrete "anchors". Two 1/4" or 3/8" inch holes are drilled into the concrete for each post (with a masonry bit). The anchors provided are used to mount the post brackets directly to the concrete slab. The 3" square posts are then slid over the top of the secured post brackets and a 3/8 inch bolt, washer, & nut (provided) is used to attach the post to the bracket. See similar questions...

When you want to mount the fence atop your concrete pool apron, for example, you can use floor flanges on the posts. These are bolted down using lag bolts and anchors which are available at any hardware store. You'll need four 3/8" x 2" bolts per post. It is not unusual to have an angle other than a 90 degree corner. You can use a corner post or a line post, depending on the angle. Basically, anything wider than 90 degrees, use a line post. Less than 90 degrees, use a corner post. See similar questions...

For the do it yourselfer I would strongly recommend it. I would also level each one with a transit type level. Building pools on the firm Arizona ground as I do blocks are seldom used. But I know the soil and use them when needed. I also laser level and pack the ground several times during my pool installation. It is better as a beginner to use the blocks and make sure they are all level. See similar questions...

All of our Arbors come complete with concrete "anchors". 2 - 3/8" inch holes are drilled into the concrete for each post (with a masonry bit). The anchors provided are used to mount the post brackets directly to the concrete slab. The 3" square posts are then slid over the top of the secured post brackets and a 3/8 inch bolt, washer, & nut (provided) is used to attach the post to the bracket. See similar questions...

No. However there are options for post installation: Directly on a concrete slab, concrete slab with concrete footing or just a concrete footing. Read and follow the directions for properly installing posts. There isn't an engineering design to allow posts to be secured to a wooden deck. See similar questions...