You can, but it may not be the best choice. Many professionals avoid working with oil-based paints because they are harder to clean up and take longer to dry. With water-based paints, smudges and spills can be wiped away easily with a damp cloth. Water-based paint can be applied over oil-or water-based urethane finishes. For best results with opaque paints, consider first applying a white primer.

Limewashes represent the best of both form and function. They're beautiful and breathable, making them the perfect choice for both historic and new buildings. Unlike typical modern paints, they don't trap water and they age beautifully--instead of getting shabby, they develop a lovely mellow patina over time. See similar questions...

Urethane is one of the most popular finishes in use today. An easy way to determine if your floor has this type of finish is to apply a small amount of paint remover to the floor surface. If the finish bubbles up, it is most likely a urethane. You can also try scraping up a bit of the finish with a sharp blade (also in an area hidden from view.) If you can scrape up a clear material, the finish is likely urethane. See similar questions...

These are the most popular choice and involve applying a stain to achieve a particular color, followed by a top coat of polyurethane or varnish to give a protective coat. Surface finishes are durable, they resist moisture, and are easy to maintain. There are four options for the top coat, and each has its own benefits: OIL-BASED URETHANE is the most commonly used floor finish. See similar questions...

You may be able to renew a dull finish without completely refinishing the floor. Still, some hardwood floor manufacturers recommend that only professional refinishers tackle the job. If you decide to do it yourself, begin by sweeping with a good broom and then vacuuming the surface. Next, use a buffer with an abrasive pad and/or fine-grit sand paper until the finish feels smooth. Another option would be to use a rectangular oscillating sanding machine. See similar questions...

We recommend protective finish especially in areas that are subjected to high traffic or moisture. Water on the surface, without a protective layer, will discolor the appearance of the surface by leaving dark spots. Wait at least 4 hours before applying the Venetian Plaster Protective Topcoat product. This material can also be burnished like the plaster itself to deliver a high gloss. See similar questions...

Currently, there is no recycling outlet for oil-based paint. Residents can dry it out with kitty litter or sawdust and throw it away with their regular garbage. See similar questions...

No. Do not use any oil-based, polish, wax, ammoniated or abrasive cleaners on your laminate floor. These cause swelling, warping and joint-line separation. See similar questions...

The cream colored, curved- cornered pad is used with the Hardwood Floor Refinisher (do not mistake for our new Hardwood Floor Dusting Pad which is white and rectangular). See similar questions...

Yes! They can make a lovely light and lacy design. Some of the overall background quilting patterns look absolutely great painted on a wall either in tone on tone or in a coordinating color. Back to Top See similar questions...

Latex paint is a great choice for most instances, but there are still situations where a solvent-based paint may be preferable. To help decide which is best in your case, consider the following: See similar questions...

You may mix any of our urethane clears into the final coat of an ULTRA-GLO acrylic urethane paint job. Doing so is a quick and easy way to improve the gloss and long-term durability of the paint finish, without having to apply a full clearcoat. It should be noted that this is not as effective as applying a full clear coat. Kirker’s ULTRA-GLO acrylic urethane paint is completely compatible with all of our urethane clear products, so they will work together in any mix ratio. See similar questions...

Solid 3/4" Hardwood flooring cannot be installed below grade (below the soil line) or over concrete. When a solid product encounters moisture it reacts very negatively. Therefore, a laminate or engineered flooring must be used. Laminate flooring is constructed by fusing 4-plys of material together to form a product with unprecedented strength and durability. An engineered product is very similar with the exception that they usually have a real wood layer on top of the constructed core. See similar questions...

Hardwood flooring can be installed almost anywhere in your home. Solid wood, such as site-finished and pre finished flooring, can be installed on or above ground. It is not recommended to install hardwood flooring in moisture prone areas of your home, such as the wet areas of a bathroom. See similar questions...

Oil-based or "oil-modified" urethane floor finish is a traditional mineral spirits-based polyurethane finish. There are many finishes of this type approved by the MFMA for application on gymnasium floors. Oil-modified finishes are generally amber in color, high gloss with good gloss retention, and they take approximately 12 to 24 hours to dry between coats. They are relatively inexpensive and durable. They typically amber (yellow) with age. See similar questions...

Many shops are using automotive finishes today, mainly because they are chemically activated and require less time in an unstable state. For the average restorer, the equipment required to apply these paints and the experience necessary, isn't worth the investment or training. Many suppliers will not sell to the general public because of these factors. It is even questionable whether this approach to painting is acceptable. To many interested in authenticity, it is not. See similar questions...

The floor should be sanded to abrade any remaining finish, and then thoroughly washed with a powdered cleaner such as Spic-n-Span. Use water as sparingly as possible, and allow the floor to dry thoroughly. Once you are certain that the floor is dry, apply one coat of Hollandlac Oil Primer and allow to dry for at least 24 hours. The floor should then be lightly sanded with a 150-grit paper to the desired level of smoothness, vacuumed and tacked dust-free. See similar questions...

Yes. Just make sure to use light, sweeping coats of paint, so as not to overload the stencil, which would cause the paint to run under the stencil openings. To clean the stencil afterward, simply soak it in acetone and let dry. See similar questions...

Yes. Simply replace the used stencil on its backing sheet and carefully wipe it clean with a damp cloth. J-cloths are ideal. Be careful not to wet the sticky side of the stencil. See similar questions...