Epiphyte's Delight is specially formulated for plants that do not need soil to grow. Nitrogen is the fertilizer component that promotes foliar growth and in many, if not most, fertilizers it is made from urea. This is fine except that this urea based nitrogen needs bacteria in soil to break it down into ammoniacal or nitrate nitrogen so that plants can use it. Since Tillandsias don't have soil, the urea nitrogen isn't broken down into the other forms and therefore the Tillandsias can't use it.

The pH needs to be in a proper range in order for the nutrients to be available to the plant. The optimum soil pH for boxwood is between 6.5 and 7.2. If the pH is below the recommended range, add dolomitic lime. This lime has low oxide content and will persist in the soil for 4‑7 years depending on application rates and soil type. If the pH is above 7.5, then lowering the pH would be in order. This is accomplished by adding iron sulfate.

For best results we recommend the use of our slow release Forest and Landscape Tree Fertilizer Pills. You can order those by calling our offices.

Answer: To control weeds, you can over-seed your lawn twice a year (early spring & early fall) to help prevent weed growth. Mowing your lawn high (4-inches or more) shades out most weed seeds and prevents them from germinating, while also slowing growth (for less frequent mowing) and strengthening the immune system of the grass. Keeping your grass unstressed by providing proper light, water, and nutrients will produce a crop of very thick turf.

When you see 30-10-10 this means you have 30% Nitrogen (N), 10% Phosphorus (P), and 10% Potassium (K). High nitrogen fertilizer is needed for orchids grown in bark, since bark tends to rob the plant of nitrogen.

Each time you plant in the EarthBox, use two cups of a dry granular fertilizer or plant food for vegetables. The three numbers of the elements making up the fertilizer content should be in the range of 5 to 15; i.e., 12-8-10, 10-10-10. After you have applied the fertilizer stripe, no additional fertilizer will be needed.

A complete fertilizer simply means it contains the major (macro) nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Prominently displayed on the front of any complete fertilizer package are three numbers. These numbers refer to the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium respectively. The most common ratio sold for roses is a 1-2-1 ratio, for example 5-10-5.

This is a tough one to answer, because fertilization is so tremendously tied to water quality, potting medium, temperature, light and a variety of other factors. However, if you just have a few plants, and don't want to fuss around a lot learning about the intricacies of water and fertilizer, I'd simply suggest you get any reasonably balanced 'orchid' fertilizer, that is low in urea, and use it at approximately 1/4 to1/2 the label strength every other watering.

Answer: All or most of the ingredients found in a natural-based fertilizer are natural ingredients that are derived from natural sources ? ingredients you will recognize when you read the label. These fertilizers do not contain herbicides, fungicides or insecticides ? they are not weed and feed products. Neither do they use fast-acting nitrogen that quickly leaches through the soil and into the water table, or runs off the surface of soil into streams and lakes.

Answer: No. While both products will feed your lawn, natural-based fertilizers are not formulated to kill weeds. The problem with indiscriminate use of weed & feed products is that it can accidentally kill broad-leaf plants you want to grow, such as trees. Some of the chemicals used in these products can also harm soil microorganisms, which are necessary for healthy soil.

Moisture availability is a concern in all top dress application. However, if the N source used is UAN, a portion of the solution (nitrate) can move readily into the surface soil after application and be plant available quickly. Anhydrous ammonia is inexpensive, approximately $0.28/lb., and it is often considered appropriate to apply 100 lbs. of pre-plant N (wheat) and ignore the in season crop N needs. Pre-plant application of N is extremely inefficient (~33%).

Answer: There are about as many special recipes for rose fertilizer and techniques for feeding roses as there are rose growers. All you need to know is that for a rose to produce a good show of blossoms, it needs to be fed. That food may come in the form of compost or well-aged manure, or come in a bag or bottle of ready-to-use fertilizer. We prefer a mix of both. We apply a shovel-full of compost per rose in early spring and late fall.

The ideal fertilizer would supply and maintain all the necessary nutrients for optimum growth throughout the entire growing season, under the unique conditions of your rose garden. Ideally this fertilizer would match your personal gardening philosophy whether it be organic or synthetic and would fit your lifestyle whether it be rose gardening fanatic or I got better things to do with my time rose fancier. There is no specific fertilizer that would meet this criteria.

Epsom salts is the common name for magnesium sulfate which in adequate supply can produce bigger flowers and healthier plants. Both magnesium and sulfur are essential elements for plant growth. It has been suggested by garden writers, extension people, and rose enthusiasts that roses require higher than normal levels of magnesium seldom found in complete fertilizers.

Usually a fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium is suitable, applied at a rate of one to one and a half pounds of Nitrogen per thousand square feet of turf. Most soils in the Clearwater area are very high in Phosphorus content and because Potassium is as leachable in our sandy soils as Nitrogen, we recommend equal percentages of Nitrogen and Potassium, with no or very little Phosphorus.

We have switched to a new product this year - Nu-Gro Golf Nitroform®. This liquid chemical treatment is used at professional golf courses nationwide. For more information on Nu-Gro Golf Nitroform®, click here.

No. Individual inputs and records are not required. Losses and indemnities are determined by the final index values. Grid ID, crop type, and index interval will be determined prior to the sales closing date. Sales closing date - November 30 (crop type, coverage level, productivity factor, grid ID, index intervals, and number of insured acres).

Contrary to popular beliefs, most lawn fertilizer should be applied in late summer and fall. By fertilizing in the fall rather than spring, your lawn stays green longer in the fall, greens-up earlier in the spring, maintains higher energy reserves in the summer, and perhaps most importantly, increases its tolerance to summer stresses such as disease.

Fertilizer recommendations are usually based on the amount needed to meet your yard's nitrogen requirements. To determine the amount of fertilizer required to apply one pound of nitrogen to 1,000 square feet, divide 100 by the percent of nitrogen in the fertilizer. Here are some nitrogen guidelines for specific grass species.