First of all, you should know that optimal gyro performance requires pretty much everything on the helicopter to be well balanced and working smoothly. This includes the engine and drivetrain - any vibration will "confuse" the gyro sensor and degrade performance. Any fluctuations in engine performance will make more work for the gyro as well. Is the gyro gain high enough? If you can turn it up without causing the tail to wag, you should do so.

It is a device used to sense sudden unwanted movements of the tail. It's job is to move the tail servo to compensate for the unwanted movement. As an example, lets say you are in a hover and a sudden gust of wind blows the right side of the helicopter. Without a gyro this would cause the helicopter to turn to the right. With a gyro, it very quickly senses the sudden movement and gives a left command to the tail servo to keep the helicopter pointed where it was.

Well, it's impossible not to notice the helicopter pirouetting at 120 RPM and sounding like an off-balance washing machine... But it's better to be able to detect this condition before unleashing a five-foot flying lawnmower upon yourself and your neighbors. Fortunately, it's not too difficult. Remove the canopy, turn on your transmitter and helicopter, and wait for the gyro to 'wake up' if necessary. For this test, the gyro should be in standard (not heading hold) mode.

This refers to the sensitivity of the gyro. When the gyro senses an unwanted movement it commands the tail servo to move in the opposite direction to compensate. How much it tells the servo to move is the 'gain'. Ideally the amount of gain should match how much the helicopter was rotated so that it stays pointed in the same direction and does not move. If the gain is too high then the helicopter over compensates. The effect you will see is the tail will bounce back and forth.

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To figure out the right gyro direction just watch for the control rod as you rotate the helicopter so the nose goes to the left. If the control rod gets pulled forward then you have it correct. This is assuming you have the tail assembly correct I have helped many with the tail backwards. Basically what you are looking for is for the control rod to go the same direction as when you move the rudder stick right.

A: Any of our units can easily stabilize approximately twice their personal weight. The KS-2 at 1.5 lbs will handle most light weight binoculars. The KS-4 at 2.13 lbs will handle most 35 mm cameras not going over 400 mm lens and the heavier binoculars, those around 4 lbs. The KS-6 at 3.25 lbs is the usual gyro of choice for medium format cameras and steadicam operators ( who often use 2 KS-6 gyros). The KS-8 at 5.13 lbs is more for the movie cameras weighing up to 11-12 lbs.

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Neomail me straight away so I can fix it. Do not be afraid, I do not take you correcting me as an insult.

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