Concrete hardens as a result of hydration, that is the chemical reaction between cement and water. Hydration occurs only if water is available and if the concrete's temperature stays within a suitable range. After placing concrete, the concrete surface needs to be kept moist for a period of time to permit the hydration process. this period is referred to as the curing period and is usually 5-7 days after placing conventional concrete.

Because water is essential for the hydration of cement in concrete, curing is the single most important action that a contractor or home owner can take to prolong the life of a concrete structure. Curing significantly impacts long term concrete properties including: durability, strength, surface integrity, watertightness, and resistance to freezing and thawing and deicer salts. See similar questions...

Bob, if you won the lottery what would you do to your home? (From your friends at the Remedy Building) See similar questions...

Any reputable installer will insist you consider getting a moisture test done if your slab is less than six months old. If the moisture content in the slab is higher than 3% the installer may suggest the use of a moisture barrier to protect the timber flooring while the slab continues to dry. See similar questions...

Not necessarily. However, it is simply a matter of what the purchaser wants. The building will be built on pressure treated skids and they will sit on top of the concrete. The most important thing is to ensure the site is level prior to L'il Barn Builder constructing your building. See similar questions...

Trusteel is not a concreting business however we can arrange for a concrete slab to be laid or you can engage a local concreter to undertake this work. Until a site visit has been undertaken, the concrete price quoted is a "budget price". The finalised price will be based on a 100mm (unless otherwise stated) thick, reinforced concrete slab with allowances made for any fall that may require filling on site or access restrictions. See similar questions...

No, all concrete slabs shall have six inches by six inches wire mesh for reinforcing with four inches of concrete and four inches of compacted gravel or sand. Exception: Basement floors are not required to have wire mesh. See similar questions...

You can install StoneDeck over a concrete slab but it would be more cost-effective for you to use a stone without our system’s special composite backing. See similar questions...

If the question is can a 3/4" hardwood floor be installed directly on concrete, the answer is "I wouldn't if I were you". If the question is can a 3/4" hardwood floor be installed over top of a concrete slab, the answer is "Yes". Our showroom is a perfect example of that. Can you nail hardwood into concrete? No. See similar questions...

It can read the moisture as a relative reading; in other words it will give an indication of a problem area, but will not give a definite moisture content. There are constituents in concrete that can cause the moisture readings to be in error, but as long as the concrete is homogeneous, the error will be constant. Example: If the slab reads approximately 12% moisture in all areas but one area is approx. 20%, it can be assumed that this is a problem area. See similar questions...

When considering the FRL upgrade of Concrete elements thorough investigation is required and some of the salient points are: See similar questions...

Ventilation. You must provide ventilation to remove the moisture as rapidly as possible. The applicator will leave windows and doors open 3-4 inches and sometimes ask you to turn fans on if the level of humidity outside is quite high. See similar questions...

The clinical evidence proves that this is a superior treatment, however ongoing research by Virulite has given rise to strong anecdotal evidence that if used to treat 4 to 5 separate cold sore attacks, the recurrence of the cold sores is significantly reduced. This is the focus of ongoing research. The Virulite Cold Sore Machine is highly effective in 99.5% of individuals. See similar questions...

A - The slab may be of any size sufficient to stop the bottom of the mast pushing down into the ground but a standard paving slab (as opposed to just a paving stone) of about a foot square and two inches thick would be more than adequate for most situations. A piece of ground treated, solid, timber would do just as well. See similar questions...

Screw Clips twist into the foam-board insulation. The tubing snaps into the screw clips. Then, wire mesh (remesh) and/or rebar is laid over the tubing. When you pour the concrete, pull the wire mesh to the middle of the slab. Be careful not to pull the tubing up with the remesh when you pour. Many people prefer to use fiber-reinforced concrete so they don't have to install wire mesh. See similar questions...

Basement-foundation plans are included with all houses. However, we dimension the foundations in such a way that they can still be used with slab or crawl spaces with very minor changes for your contractor, or slab and crawl-space foundation plans may be added to blueprint and mylar orders for an additional $50. See similar questions...

Yes, you can install solid wood boards on a concrete slab. As 3/4'' boards must be nailed and not glued, you must first install a wood subfloor (plywood or OSB panels). See similar questions...

The bonding surface offered by the concrete should not be overlooked. The surface should be unpainted without contamination from compounds such as formwork releasing agents, oils, grease, etc which may impede the proper adhesion of the Vermitex 'AF'. See similar questions...

Yes, this is often done. Actually, we prefer to do it this way. Not only does it give you a better finish to your building, it also serves to further anchor your building to the ground. See similar questions...

Yes. We often are requested to construct on an existing slab and can marry the building to the slab in a variety of ways. We do advise our customer that the preferred method is to construct the building first, then pour the slab. The second preferred method is to cut through the concrete at the locations where the poles are to be set, to set the poles at normal depth and then to back pour the concrete in those cut areas. See similar questions...