Weld-Crete®, the original chemical bonding agent for concrete, is a safe, easy to use surface applied bonding agent that bonds new concrete to any clean, structurally sound surface. It has been specified and used by major architects, engineers and construction companies throughout the world since 1952.

Weld-Crete® is applied as a liquid and as it dries to a thin, flexible film, it forms a tenacious bond to the structural surface. The dry film is reactivated by the moisture and chemical reaction that occurs as the new concrete cures. Full bonding strength is achieved after the new concrete has completely cured.

Weld-Crete® can be applied by brush, roller, or spray. Do not dilute. When using spray equipment, the nozzle should permit a fog-type spray. Weld-Crete® should be applied in a thin, continuous, film. Do not permit Weld-Crete® to puddle in low areas.

Yes. Weld-Crete® becomes thicker in colder weather and coverage is reduced. Spraying becomes extremely difficult in cold weather. Do not apply in freezing weather. Do not apply over frozen surfaces.

Weld-Crete® may be applied to any clean, structurally sound surface. Weld-Crete® may be applied over painted surfaces provided the paint is clean and well secured to the substrate.

The surface must be clean and structurally sound. Dust, dirt, oil, grease, wax, loose paint, efflorescence, rust, mildew, and other foreign material must be completely removed. Weld-Crete® may be painted over painted surfaces provided the paint is still well secured to the substrate.

No. Weld-Crete® is freeze thaw stable; however, it is preferable to prevent freezing. Allow frozen Weld-Crete® to thaw at room temperature.

New concrete can be applied over Weld-Crete® when it is dry to the touch, usually within one hour, up to ten days later, provided that the Weld-Crete® film is kept clean.

Once the new concrete is fully cured, Weld-Crete® is unaffected by humidity or condensation. It is not intended for use as a water barrier. It is not recommended for use where hydrostatic pressure is present.

Only the base coat is bonded to Weld-Crete®. The base coat should be a minimum of 3/8". The base coat must be allowed to dry 24 hours before the finish coat is applied to prevent flooding of the bond line.

Wet Weld-Crete® is easily removed with hot water. Dried Weld-Crete® is much more difficult to remove. Chemical solvents such as acetone, methyl isobutyl ketone, or cyclohexanone may be used.

The Engrave-A-Crete? System consists of several combined processes that remodel concrete to produce a pleasing appearance. Briefly, a deep penetrating acrylic or chemical/acid stain is used to transform the color, then a permanent, precise, pattern is engraved (cut) INTO the hard concrete with our patented concrete engravers. The Engrave-A-Crete? Process is NOT a topping or overlayment that could chip off.

When welding in a floor and tunnel, use a rosette weld about 3" to 4" apart. It is not necessary to weld the entire edge of a floor. This will cause severe warpage (too much heat). When welding in a firewall, weld back through the holes you drilled to remove the stock firewall. DO NOT START ON ONE SIDE AND WELD ALL THE WAY TO THE OTHER SIDE.

Be sure that all four corners are tied to the vehicle frame. Each frame bracket must be bolted to the vehicle frame with two bolts, unless optional weld is used. These instructions are guidelines only, actual installation is the responsibility of the installer and the owner. Either way is acceptable. If the you choose to have the brackets welded to the frame, Reese requires the brackets to be welded by a certified welder.

This is not a skill everyone can acquire. Thin stainless can be spot-welded which is suitable for the combustion chamber and case. The NGV assembly will require MIG or TIG welding. TIG sets are expensive and it may be necessary to find a specialist welder used to welding stainless steel to do the welding for you. Modern engines employ a casting for the NGV which is more stable during natural heat cycling.

It will weld thin metals like automotive sheet metals with minimal warpage up to ½ inch (optional tips may be required) A MIG or stick welder will do thicker 3/16 – ½ materials faster, but if you only have the Henrob it will do it just not as fast as the electric welders.

Widening a crack and/or filling it with a special super-duper epoxy compound generally does not work. Smearing a crack with polymer cement won't fix a crack either. That crack is going to remain in the concrete, Period! The best thing is to very carefully fill a crack with a flexible product (depending on choice of stain). A crack can be tolerated if it's hidden and disguised in the pattern.

Concentrate the heat on the thick part, as the heat will transfer easily to the thinner aluminum. [back to top]