You must wait until the foliage turns yellow so that the plant can return its nutrients back to the corm of the bulb.

Our bulbs occasionally arrive early from Europe. Our customers with warmer weather should wait until late in September or early October to plant them (when the ground cools off). Soil temperature below 60 degrees is a good rule of thumb. Store them in your garage or basement. Any place with cool (50-60 degrees F) with good air circulation with do.

A minimum of 5 Tulips or Narcissus and at least 10 of the smaller bulbs should be planted together. You can, of course, always plant more than that together. Just keep your spacing in mind as well.

Jean Z - I have just bought trumpet daffodils, mixed crocus, and various colored tulips....can someone please advise me on when I should plant these bulbs. Skip MNZ4 - In Zone 7, you can start planting in mid-October. Tulips can be planted late in the season, as long as the soil can be worked. Here in Zone 4 I have planted tulips at the end of November, with snow on the ground. D. Schuman - Everything except the tulips can go in as soon as it is available in the stores...(mid Sept.

Yes, this is the most important thing to do to ensure good blooms. Bulbs start to form roots right after planting and water is very important to get them started. Also, water the bulbs when it has been dry for a long period of time.

s swoboda - I have a variety of bulbs from hyacinths to daffodils to allums. I'm very excited but nervous about planting. I've been told to plant up to 18 inches deep up here in Maine even if the package says 5 inches. can anyone Help me, please. Skip MNZ4 - As was said in one of Shakespeare's plays, "We come to plant the bulbs, not bury them". 18 inches is way too deep and 10 inches is getting to the outer limit as well.

Skip MNZ4 - You have 8 inches of good soil in Zone 5 so I would think you could plant the bulbs at 6, maybe 7, inches. The problem is not that tulips won't do well in clay but it's that the clay underlayment acts as a barrier to good drainage and if you have really wet conditions this may, indeed, lead to rotting of the bulbs. The Hyacinths can go in at the same depth as the tulips while the Muscari can go in at 5 inches.

Plant them in September. Just a suggestion... It's nice to plant clusters of bulbs (3, 5, etc.), as you will get a better show in the Spring. Soil should be amended with peat moss. Heavy clay soil in the Winter holds water. This will make your bulbs rot. Just a suggestion... Don't plant your bulbs near your annuals, as too much watering will rot the bulbs.

We do not encourage this, primarily because the young trees will need to be weeded for the first 3 years. This entails the spraying off of all vegetation from around the base of the tree to allow unhindered growth. There are also issues regarding the woodland ecology; many flower species will be inappropriate in a native wood.

Yes, the roots of the bulbs go much deeper so they do not fight for the same food supply as the ground cover. The ground cover will assist in hiding the faded leaves after blooming.

Jen - CA/9 - I planted 'johnny jump-ups' Violas over my Narcissus paper whites last month, just because I thought they'd look pretty together. Apparently (though I didn't know this at the time), the johnny jump-ups return year after year so they'll die off at about the time my Narcissus go dormant, and then they'll come back up together. Thus, I won't have to worry about watering the Violas when the Narcissus shouldn't be, next Summer.

Growers in the Netherlands plant their bulbs in November. They can do this because winters in the Netherlands never really start until mid-December. In regions where the winter starts earlier, it would be advisable to plant tulips in October.

Bulbs need air to breath. They will not grow if stored in an airtight package. Store "breathable" bulbs in room temperature 70-72 F

Spring flowering bulbs should be planted from September through November. The bulb requires a period of cold temperature to stimulate growth rate. Golden Rule: Plant before the hard frost.

Start with a container with a diameter approximately 12-15 inches and about 6 inches deep. Place some rocks on the bottom of this container in order to provide optimal drainage. 2.) Add 2 to 4 inches of potting soil for the first planting level. Place the taller flowering bulbs such as Tulips, Daffodils and Hyacinths close together. Remember to keep the points up and cover this layer with soil. 3.) Plant smaller bulbs such as Crocus, Anemone Blanda, Puschkinia Libanotica, etc. in this layer.

Landscaping can begin in the spring as soon as the frost is out of the ground. Nursery plants are generally potted up bare root or container grown in the field. Larger, caliper trees or pre-dug in the spring and kept covered with sawdust and watered daily so they can be planted throughout the year. It is definitely unadvisable to try and transplant deciduous trees or shrubs once they have leaved out as their chance of survival is very low.

The flowering stage occurs when the anthers of the terminal spikelets protrude and shed pollen. It occurs 25 days after visual panicle initiation regardless of the variety.

Dig a hole large enough in the soil to fit the whole root comfortably, pat down the soil well and water. Fertilize the soil.

Feed the bulbs in early spring with a recommended bulb fertilizer or one low in nitrogen. Allow the bulbs to bloom as usual. Wait until the foliage dies back and separates easily from the bulb when given a gentle tug. If you cannot transplant them immediately, mark their location and transplant anytime through late summer. Fertilize again in fall.