We typically only need to remove one row of siding to access the wall cavities. We carefully remove a row of siding and drill a hole in each stud bay. We insert a tube into these holes and blow cellulose insulation at high density into the bays. This is known as the dense-pack method. Not only does this increase the thermal resistance of the wall, but it creates a better air barrier against unwanted air exchange between inside and out.

Yes. Our manufacturers offer either pre-finished wall boards (wall paper already applied) or prime painted finished drywall.

Interior walls are built conventionally. The interior partitions can be built between posts and under beams keeping in mind that seasonal changes in the timbers requires special detailing. Building the walls next to the timbers eliminates gaps and fitting requirements, and you can also run the second story wiring and plumbing without drilling timbers.

The walls are, what is termed 'off form', meaning that once the formwork is removed after construction, the natural earth tones are visible and compaction layers produce the unique character of your wall surface. Our walls are treated with a clear [could you use 'polymer' instead] sealer ?? that dust proofs and seals them from water penetration, eliminating the need for rendering or painting the wall surface. the walls are not rendered, maintenance is minimal.

Yes. We insulate existing walls by drilling a small hole (about the size of a quarter) through the exterior or interior of the wall, filling the wall with blown-in insulation product (either cellulose or fiberlass), and patching and priming each hole to reduce visibility.

Answer: Insulate the floor if the building is up on stilts and adding walls to close in below is impossible. This requires that you protect pipes and drains below the floor level. If you can close in the area under the building, insulating the walls will have the following advantages: Costs less to do - usually fewer sq. feet, easier to install, and eliminates having to insulate the mechanical systems.

Answer: Our recommendation is to insulate walls that may be susceptible to frost action (ground water, roof run-off, poor drainage, etc.) to about one foot below the outside grade level. In most cases, this puts insulation and air sealing in the area where it does the most good, at the top of the wall and sill area where it is the coldest and most leaks occur. Keeping the below-grade area of the foundation uninsulated keeps the ground just outside warm and prevents frost action.

For regular walls, if the stud lands over a web, screw through the stud with a 3" deck screw and connect to the web. If it doesn't span a web, you can use Grapplers (see above) or just spring the stud out and use an adhesive such as Foam2Foam polyurethane foam, liquid nails or similar and glue the face of the 2X to the foam. in the uncommon case where the frame wall is a shear wall, then use anchor bolts or Simpson Ties just like you're installing a ledger and bolt the stud to the concrete.

Exterior: we call for 1x tongue and groove planking (plywood can also be used; however, it's more labor intensive as well as creates considerable waste of material), with either wood [cedar] shakes or shingles, or asphalt or fiberglass-impregnated asphalt shingles. However, a metal (aluminum alloy) roof can also be installed [over the sheathing base of the planks or plywood]. Interior: we call for drywall (a.k.a. gypsum board, sheetrock, or plaster board); however, t&g planks can also be used.

You can use the same stain as the exterior you may want to dilute to make the color lighter or a clear satin polyurethane.

Interior partition walls are generally constructed of either wood or steel 2x4s and sheathed with drywall, as in conventional frame construction. Where an interior partition wall meets an exterior wall, the edge stud is screwed into a structural support member pre-designed for that location.

This is an excellent use of CEBs in a home built with CEBs or a hybrid home utilizing a combination of methods such as CEBs, frame, straw bale, rammed earth, concrete, or timber frame construction.  This is because it provides a great amount of thermal mass to the interior environment of the home which helps regulate indoor comfort and temperature.  Back to Top

A - For regular walls; if the stud lands over a web, screw through the stud with a 3" deck screw and connect to the web. If it doesn't span a web, you can use Grapplers (see above) or just spring the stud out and use an adhesive such as Foam2Foam polyurethane foam, liquid nails or similar and glue the face of the 2X to the foam. In the uncommon case where the frame wall is a shear wall, then use anchor bolts or Simpson Ties just like you're installing a ledger and bolt the stud to the concrete.

We know that at least one room was wallpapered, and we have replicated that wallpaper in the dining room. The remaining rooms are restored to how they would have looked, using the wall and trim paint colors confirmed through research and sampling.

Down warms without weight. It takes 14 wool blankets to equal the temperature control of one down comforter. Each down cluster traps more air for its weight than any synthetic fiber. Every ounce of down has about two million fluffy filaments that interlock and form a protective layer filled with air that keeps warmth in and cold. Down is wonderfully resilient. You can flatten it and with a good shake it will bounce back to its original loft while providing you with natural warmth.

Both ways of insulating (inside and outside) have different advantages and disadvantages. We recommend insulating basement walls from the outside if possible. This method of insulating is more difficult to do but does save space inside the house. Insulating basement walls from the inside is very common as well though, and is generally a less expensive way to provide thermal protection.

The importance of basement insulation depends on whether the basement is heated. If you heat your basement, or if your furnace or other sources of heat are in the basement, you should insulate the basement walls to contain the heat. If not, you should insulate the basement ceiling to reduce heat loss to the basement and keep your floors warmer.

Flush Sinks in Granite Top - Granite counter top sink cutouts are not as I ordered. I ordered the sink cutouts on counter tops made for our kitchen to be made FLUSH with the sink bowls.The sink manufacturer specified this on the prep sink cutout for accessories but not on the two bowl sink. I ordered the two bowl to be flush as well to match.They had both sinks in house and I provided them detailed drawings for reference.The tops were delivered with a 3/16 reveal on both sinks.