Currently we build 100 cedar decks for every pressure treated one. We prefer using natural outdoor cedar to chemically treated wood. We also find a lot less slivers and a deck that looks better now and in years to come.

Generally no, you will obtain nowhere near the same level of durability. Lumber must be pressure-treated to obtain the proper penetration depth and chemical level for adequate long-term protection of the lumber. Field treatment with organic solvent-based preservatives works acceptably well on lumber ends but not on the flat surfaces. This is because end-grain of lumber absorbs preservative up to 100 times more than the flat surface.

Yes. As with all construction wood, both treated wood and plywood should be dried to a moisture content of 19% or less prior to installation in a building to ensure dimensional stability. Drying is less important when CCA-treated wood is to be used outdoors.

Pressure Treated Lumber will weather over time to a silver gray color that might be appealing from an architectural perspective, but effective water repellants will retard the impact of moisture in the wood and, thereby, help reduce splitting, cracking and twisting that is common with these types of wood.

The lumber is inserted into a sealed cylindrical tank about 7 feet in diameter by 60 feet long. The tank is completely filled with a diluted solution of chemical and water, then pressurized. This pressure forces the chemical into the wood fibers.

Pressure Treated Lumber is a less expensive alternative to Cedar, or other wood types that are naturally good for outdoor projects. Because most common wood species have little resistance to decay, some form of chemical preservative is necessary to protect the lumber from rot and from attack of insects and fungi. This chemical treatment does not stop dimensional changes in the wood which are caused by changes in the weather and humidity.

It is best to seal the wood with a penetrating water sealer as soon as the wood is dry. This could take anywhere between 2 weeks and 2 months depending on the climate and time of year. The pressure treatment process is chemically injected to resist rot, decay and termite infestation. The sealer and /or stain protect the wood against the damaging effects of water and UV sun exposure such as cracking, splitting and warping.

Answer: Yes! PTL performs outstandingly on many wood species. Keep in mind that the color is somewhat stronger than with other Sansin wood coatings. Answer: No, the base formulas are inherently different. Although they may appear to be compatible, we cannot guarantee performance results.

Pressure treated pine has been chemically treated to help discourage damage from insects and moisture. We use pressure treated exclusively for the posts which are set into the ground. Cedar is used on parts of the fence that don't come in contact with the ground. Cedar is more attractive and less likely to shrink, warp or split. It is a very popular choice for privacy and picket fences. It weathers naturally and will maintain the quality of its appearance longer.

Pressure-treated lumber and plywood are intended for above-ground exterior use. Both are appropriate for a wide range of applications. These include exterior decks and balconies, stairways, covered walkway siding, molding and trim, soffit and facia, open-air roof systems, stables, scaffolding, and construction staging.

Douglas fir, southern yellow pine, and western red cedar are now available. All common sizes and most construction species of lumber and plywood (of any thickness) can be treated by Thermex-FR.

Your heart pumps blood through a network of arteries, veins, and capillaries. The moving blood pushes against the arterial walls, and this force is measured as blood pressure. High blood pressure results from the tightening of very small arteries (arterioles) that regulate the blood flow through your body. As these arterioles tighten (or constrict), your heart has to work harder to pump blood through the smaller space, and the pressure inside the vessels grows.

In the past, the rule of thumb was to wait until the green color faded away. Recent studies have shown that waiting the six to 12 months necessary for this to happen allows the wood to deteriorate too much. To adequately protect treated wood from the harmful effects of rain, snow, mildew and the sun’s ultraviolet rays, the wood should be allowed to thoroughly dry first. Then if the wood will accept a finish, coat it with one of the Sherwin-Williams DeckScapes systems.

Pressure treated wood will not rot, but it will cup, warp, split and splinter if it is not sealed so water will not absorb and then evaporate in a number of cycles

Cedar has natural oils and acids in the wood that make it undesirable to most insects. This allows the wood to be installed in its unfinished form and last for many years. Cedar also warps less than Whitewood or Pine fences.

That's an opinion call, but if you do, you will have to do it again every year. We recommend letting it grey naturally and washing it 2 or 3 times/year with Sunlight dishwashing soap to keep it clean and pollution-free.

New pressure treated lumber should weather six to eight weeks minimum before applying UV Plus for Pressure Treated Wood. The wood needs to weather sufficiently to allow the pores to open up to accept the stain. Failure to do so will cause premature failure and possible surface sheen problems.

Recent studies have shown that you can use a Delmhorst meter with confidence at the treating plant, job site, or when the wood is in service if the preservative is a "C oxide" formulation (CCA-C) widely used today. Our experience has shown that at higher moisture content levels (above 20 percent), chemically treated lumber tends to yield somewhat erratic readings.

One quite important one: Use hot-dip galvanized meeting ASTM-A153/A653, 304 or 316 stainless steel or other fasteners, otherwise, your treated wood will last longer than the unprotected fasteners you've used to put it together. Do not use preserved wood in direct contact with aluminum. A poly barrier is recommended for any applications where treated lumber will meet aluminum flashing. No.

There are a lot of decks out there, and choosing one can be overwhelming. There are two lines of thinking about choosing your first Tarot deck: Start with a classic. Most modern Tarot decks are based on the Universal Rider-Waite deck. Many Tarot instructors will advise new students to just pick up a copy of this deck for starters. That way, you will have a good base of knowledge about the symbolism of the cards when you feel ready to progress on to a more elaborate deck.