Our products are not stained...color is the true wood. Older stock has a diluted watco finish, new product is dipped in Weiman LemonOil for Wood, does not clog pores of wood. The Accessory Bar is a Peg Bar, not intended for earrings, only necklace,bracelet, other larger open ended danglings, such as keyrings etc. Hi I am interested in a rack for necklaces -- one that hangs on the wall. The rack is for my daughter whose lease prohibits the drilling of any holes.

The clear coat finish gives your vehicle a "showroom shine" and protects the base coat from damage. ECO advises you to regularly clean and condition your vehicle's clear coat finish to ensure ultimate protection and luster.

The best way to protect your vehicle's clear coat is to visit one of ECO's many locations on a regular basis. Regular application of our Double Clear Coat Sealant creates a barrier that helps protect your vehicle's finish from harmful UV rays and airborne contaminants, as well as acids, tree saps, bugs, and bird droppings...All of which cause damage to your vehicle's factory clear coat. Our protective sealant lasts up to 30 days on your vehicle's finish.

The Satin finish is a matte finish and the easiest to maintain. Because it has a low sheen, it is very forgiving insofar as showing scratches, dents, and wear and tear over time. The Semi Gloss finish has some shine and is a little harder to maintain in that it will show scratches, dents and wear and tear sooner. The High Gloss finish is the hardest to maintain in that it shows everything - dust, dirt, scratches, dents, and wear and tear in general the quickest.

Clear spray lacquer is available at most hardware stores. Wood stains vary greatly. Natural oak is sealed and lacquered only. Also available is cherry, stained oak, antique oak, etc. RETURN TO TOP

Wood finishing materials have evolved dramatically in the past fifty years. Originally finishing materials were made of varnish or rubbing oils until roughly the 1940’s. The next generation of materials used was lacquer. In the mid 70’s to early 80’s, finishes became environmentally driven to water base. This history can be used as a guideline to determine what finishing material was used and the suitable polish to be used.

A clear coat is the top coat of a paint that contains no pigmentation or color. In a typical automotive paint surface, there is a primer coat which is what is sprayed on the metal or plastic body surface, a base coat, which contains the color and a clear coat. A clear coats purpose is to provide depth and gloss to the finish and to protect the base coat from the elements, including the harmful UV (Ultra-violet) rays of the sun.

For an extra charge (see Lacquer Finish option on product page ) we will be happy to apply a lacquer finish to any stained CUBE, or CASTER BASE you order.

In the 20th century, when solvent-based polyurethanes were common, gloss was harder wearing, because manufacturers used additives which weaken the finish to achieve a satin or matt look. However, with our range of water-based varnishes, there is no difference in durability between matt, satin and gloss finishes.

Laminating resin is greenish blue in color and is the basic first coat of resin; it is used to adhere the cloth to the blank (this resin will only dry tacky and not sandable!) Sanding or hot coat resin or filler coat is almost the same thing; it is lam resin with surfacing agent (styrene monomer and paraffin wax) mixed in. Paint it on the laminated surfboard to fill the fiberglass weave and make the board sandable. Gloss/finish Resin is pink in color and is the final coat of resin.

I prefer to use a large brush or a mop. You want to get large amounts of Stain Solver liquid on the deck surface. Hand pump sprayers often apply too little solution to the surface. If you must use a sprayer, make sure the product has dissolved completely or you will clog the nozzle! Also, be sure you spray on lots of liquid.

Clears with no pigmentation do not offer UV protection or color retention. Our products contain Transparent Iron Oxide pigments which absorb UV radiation while allowing visible light to pass through. This results in a finish that highlights the natural beauty of the wood while still protecting it. This is usually caused by oversaturation of UV Plus for Hardwood Decks on the wood. Remember, the product must be able to penetrate completely to work properly.

Our only clear finish is for interior use only. We would suggest the transparent wood finish designed for the type of wood you want to coat. (Examples: Cedar/Marine for cedar or teak; Transparent Redwood for redwood.) This indicates overapplication of the wood stain. In most cases, washing the surface with a solution of TSP (Tri-Sodium Phosphate) and water, (with some scrubbing) after seven days drying time, will correct the problem.

Most woodstains and varnishes are relatively thin and over time the flatting agents may settle out into fairly solid layers on the bottom of the can. Applying an incompletely stirred mid sheen product often results in a high gloss coating on the timber as a large proportion of the flatting agents are left at the base of the container. To achieve the specified sheen level all of these flatting agents must be distributed evenly throughout the can.

Assuming that the paint is in excellent condition, meaning free of any paint blemishes, water spot marks, stains from bugs or tree sap, we recommend our Clear Coat Wax or our Platinum Series Waxes. All of these products contain polymers that bond to the paint finish and cure, producing a durable skin that is highly resistant to the detergents and environmental conditions. Work this product in a section-by-section process.

Make sure every coat is dry prior to applying another coat of paint. For an even higher gloss, you may purchase one of our clear coat pens from us.