For cement sub-floors Fastwarm® boards will readily bond to any good quality fast setting, water based (solvent-free) floor tile adhesive. For wood floors care must be taken to ensure that the floor is firmly fixed to the joists, following the recommended 300 mm screwed centres as a guide, prior to applying the flexible floor tile adhesive and bonding the Fastwarm boards.

Traditional use of plywood is a well-proven method but it is difficult to cut around complicated bathroom objects, is heavy and relatively expensive; it will require fixing to the sub-floor and primed prior to the use of tile adhesive. Fastwarm® insulation boards will achieve the same result being easy to cut with a sharp knife, available in more manageable sizes, very light weight, completely water and rot resistant, requiring no special priming to apply floor tile adhesive and low cost. See similar questions...

Fastwarm® insulation boards are manufactured from extruded polystyrene foam, produced without the use of CFC or HCFC blowing agents, have zero ODP and are fully recyclable. Designed to meet the very specific needs of the under-floor heating industry: extremely thermally efficient and ultra strong, suitable for electric cable installations or hot water systems, available in various depths from 10 mm to 60 mm. See similar questions...

Fastwarm® boards are designed to meet the very rigorous needs to be both high thermal performance and high compressive strength (30 tonnes per m2) capable of withstanding long-term static loads. See similar questions...

Where normal foot traffic is anticipated Fastwarm® insulation boards can be tiled without any special preparation, using any good quality flexible floor tile adhesive. See similar questions...

The tile council recommends that marine plywood (or equivalent) screwed down at 300mm centres is the only recognised method of stiffening a wood sub-floor in preparation of applying a flexible tile adhesive followed by the tile floor. No insulation board or tile backer board will be strong enough to provide the tensile strength to stiffen a wood floor. See similar questions...

During the summer months of the year, there is a lot of humidity in the air. Your hardwood floor soaks up this humidity and expands. As the winter months roll around, and the heat is turned on, the floor dries out and starts to gap. There are a couple of tips we recommend to try and avoid this problem. Try to keep the room at a constant 45% humidity level using an air conditioner, humidifier, or a dehumidifier. Also, prior to installation, let your floor acclimate to its surroundings. See similar questions...

Floors over unheated crawlspaces or basements should be insulated to R-19, while floors over open air (such as overhangs) should be insulated to R-30 if possible. If your home has a basement containing your heating system or other sources of heat, you should insulate the basement walls to R-11, rather than insulating the floor above. See similar questions...

The thickness will depend on the stability of your floor. Plywood must be installed over an adequate subfloor and be at least 1 1/4" thick when combined with the subfloor. Interior-grade plywood and particleboard are not considered a strong enough floor underlayment. The plywood needs to be fastened with flooring screws or wood screws every six inches on the edges and eight inches in the field. See similar questions...

The sub-floor is basically your existing structural floor. This will be constructed of Concrete or Timber. All timber floors must have cross ventilation below the floor level. So make sure the air bricks on the outside of the house are clear. Concrete floors fall in two categories, without a damp proof membrane ( dpm ) or with a dpm. All modern houses have a dpm, built in . This should prevent rising damp coming up through the screed ( concrete ) See similar questions...

Due to it's inherent strength Fastwarm® insulation boards can be used in most situations where there is only limited room for the screed. Fastwarm® insulation boards have approximately double the compressive strength characteristics of standard building insulation boards. See similar questions...

It is essential that floors which are ground bearing or suspended over an un-heated space with or without underfloor heating are properly insulated to meet the U-values requirements as stated in the Building Regulations Part L1/L2 2002. The value is currently set at 0.25 W/m 2K. The thickness of insulation required to achieve this will vary according to the type of floor, size of floor and type of insulation selected. See similar questions...

The squeak is probably in the subfloor over a floor joist. Best way is to run screws into the subfloor through the joint nearest the squeak. If this is awkward, first screw a 2 x 2 to the side of the joint tight to the subfloor, then screw up through the 2 x 2 into the subfloor. See similar questions...

Pergo Finishing Putty can be used to repair small chips and dents that have penetrated the laminate layer of your floor. It is easy to use and is color-coordinated to Pergo laminate flooring. If the area to be repaired is larger than a 1/4 of an inch, we recommend replacing the plank. Individual planks can be replaced if necessary, and since we use no dye lots and the floor does not fade, the planks will match perfectly. See similar questions...

Anything made of wood is subject to expansion and contraction resulting from changes in humidity throughout the year. Because of this it is common for cracks and small gaps to appear in hardwood floors, especially floors with wider planks. During winter, the humidity inside your home drops quite significantly when the heat is turned on. Because of the change, everything wood inside your home, including your hardwood floors, will shrink. See similar questions...

After the application of ‘Foamed Vermitex’ natural ventilation should be allowed (forced ventilation will expedite the process). In naturally ventilated conditions sufficient ‘drying time’ (3-6 weeks (1)) should always be allowed before the Floor boards are replaced. This is to prevent moisture being entrapped within the voids thus resulting in excessive moisture absorption by the Ceiling. See similar questions...

Yes, you can install T2QuickNet-90 direct on wooden floor. T2QuickNet-160 has to be installed on a self-levelling surfacer as an inter-layer on the wooden sub floor. No, T2QuickNet may only be employed in a completely flat, enclosed material. T2Reflecta is the correct system for this application, as it is a self-regulating system. See similar questions...

Floor Protection cannot be used on concrete. We do not recommend using any adhesive based products on wood. Dura Runner Plus can be used on both concrete and hardwood and other hard surfaces. See similar questions...

In order to find this out, you must use a pin type meter with insulated contact pins. First, take several readings in the layer just below the surface; then make a series of core readings, closer to the center of the board thickness. After you have noted these readings, hammer the pins through the flooring material until you make contact with the sub floor. If your readings throughout this process are uniform, then there is not a moisture problem. See similar questions...