Red-eye is caused by light from your flash bouncing off of your subject's retina. So, how do you minimize it? There are several approaches: Minimize the subject's pupil size, thus reducing the amount of light that reaches the retina to be reflected back. The so-called red-eye reduction modes in many flashes and cameras today try to do precisely this by hitting the subject with a "pre-flash" of bright light designed to make the pupils constrict.

Brake pads are packaged four pads to a box, enough to replace the pads on one “axle.” In other words, order one box of brake pads and you will have enough to replace the pads on the front or rear two wheels. For example, if you want to replace the front brake pads and discs on your car you would order two front brake discs and one set of front brake pads. See similar questions...

Causing a wife-waking outburst of laughter from me, cblpo!matula (Valentine C Matula +1 614 860 2650) writes ... gt;>> Could the reason the Diesel [brake] pads last longer is because they only wear down when used to slow a fast moving vehicle (and the Diesel poses no threat in that catagory?) <<< Actually, I think it's my driving style; my BMW 732i is _lots_faster, but the front pads on it lasted 80,000 miles, plus whatever the former owner put on them. See similar questions...

clip keeping the pads firmly in place. It can come flying out if the retainers are removed too quickly. Squeeze old pads against caliper with plyers to push pistons back into caliper (to make room for new, thick pads). Prepare new pads by filing side surfaces which slide on caliper when brake pedal is pushed. (some bads have rough edges). The only tricky part is to push the pistons in to make room, and to reinstall the spring and retaining clips. They can be difficult to align propperly. See similar questions...

Yes! - Contact us regarding your return. You can view our return/refund policy by following the link at the bottom of the page. No! - LSK will never sell, distribute or provide any private consumer and customer information to any third parties. See similar questions...

When the pads get sticky, it is the result of the ingredients used in the pads to absorb the toxic lymph fluids and excess moisture. See similar questions...

Organic Streetbike Pads (i.e. "standard" compound) are the number 1 selling EBC formulation. They're made in EBC's own factory in Bristol, England. They are a Non Asbestos Organic compound featuring Dupont Kevlar? in conjunction with other high tech fibres that have come on the market. The NAO series are a superb all round value-for-money replacement for all levels of motorcycle and are still extremely popular with many riders who prefer the "feel" of organic pads. See similar questions...

One of the Galfer staff is a KLR owner, and recommends the following Galfer pads: 50/50 on/offroad: Galfer green front, part FD091G1532; FD075 sintered rear. More street: Galfer blue front, FD091G1434; rear blue FD0751434 or black FD0751052. EBC sintered pads may work a little better than stock, but can develop an occasional squeal. If you're looking for something cheaper, I've had very good luck with Parts Unlimited TufStop pads (TSRP-802 front, TSRP-786, rear). See similar questions...

GM probably makes the best stock replacement pads which will last the longest and provide adequate stopping power. However, if you're looking for improved braking ability from pads, your best bet is go with a set of carbon metallic brake pads. Performance Friction (available through Auto Zone) makes some of the best sets of these pads: Pad Type Front part#/cost Rear part#/cost -------- ---------------- --------------- Street 6234 / $39.92 4134 / $49.98 Z-rated 623Z / $95.62 413Z / $90. See similar questions...

Wilwood has a worldwide dealer network that stocks and sells replacement parts. Check your phone book for the local high performance speed, hot or race shop, or e-mail Wilwood with your location, and we will provide a referral. See similar questions...

Temperature between the pad and the disc do not normally exceed 400-450c even in heavy street use. In race use 400-600c is common on smaller cars and in Championship Cup races temps, shoot up to around 800-900c where discs will glow red or orange. Always choose a pad that is adequate for your needs. NEVER just choose a race compound because you think you are a "hot shot". Many/most race pads need "warm up" and don't become effective till 200c. See similar questions...

Did you replace all of those little missing or broken plastic pieces inside and out? Do all systems work? Windows, locks, seats and sunroof all probably at least need lubrication. I take all of mine apart, clean and relube. See similar questions...

Unless the catalog has a note like "pair packaged" or "set of 3", all parts are priced individually. The only exceptions are brake pads and brake shoes, which come in axle sets (one package is enough for both front wheels or both rear wheels). See similar questions...

The most common reason for low pedal after brake service is improper adjustment of the rear drum/shoe or disc brake assembly. See similar questions...

A spongy pedal is an indication that air is still present in the brake system. Follow proper brake bleeding procedures and sequences. Use a plastic mallet to lightly tap hydraulic components to help free entrapped air bubbles from inner walls of calipers and wheel cylinders. See similar questions...