This depends on many factors, including the type of material used and the climate conditions in your area (snow loads, frost, winds, etc.). The American Fence Association (AFA) recommends that you consult with an experienced local fence contractor (preferably an AFA member) who is familiar with the specifications and standards associated with fence installation.

The American Fence Association (AFA) recommends that you consult with an experienced local fence contractor (preferably an AFA member) to ensure the type of wood you choose is compatible with the soil in your area. BACK TO TOP

Although there are times when an alternative might work better, the most cost effective method of installing iron fences tends to be to set them in concrete.

It depends on the harvested layer. Again, we emphasize that we do not pretend to have "a magic location" of unheard of quality as is proclaimed by some companies. When we locate a source of peat which seems promising for therapeutic use, it is then tested for stage of decomposition, therapeutic qualities, and contaminants by appropriate lab if it satisfies the standards required. Typical layers may start about 1 meter and continue for a few more.

Ideally no, but then all sorts of things would be coming and going from your yard. Leaving a gap at the bottom keeps your fence from trapping soil and water and thus from rotting the fence bottom. And if you ask your termite control company, they will tell you this is the only sure way to keep termites out of the fence. A way to have the best of both worlds is to use a CCA treated pine board at the bottom, most commonly a 2x6 and called anything from a base board to a "Kicker board".

Your choice of fence post will depend on the animal being contained, the lifetime you expect from the fence, and the topography (flat or rolling terrain). If you still don't know what type of post to use, the Fence Builder™ Planning Tool will recommend a selection for you. Keep in mind that corner and end posts (including gates) carry much of the strain, so for most applications these need to be sturdier than the line posts.

We recommend CCA-treated or Creosote Southern Yellow Pine. These fence posts are strong and will add to the safety of the fencing. Typical: Corner/End Post 6" - 8" x 8', Line Post 4" - 5" x 8'.

It depends on the lay of your land and the breed of horse you plan to contain. For level to gentle terrain 12' spacing can be utilized. As the terrain is more severe or curving you should consider closer spacing of 10' or 8 '. Keep in mind with closer spacing you will increase the strength of your fence.

Actually the posts are not cracking. They are undergoing a process known as "checking" which results from the natural seasoning (drying out) of any piece of lumber, but particularly in any full round or square piece of timber.

The CSA C448 standard directs that the minimum depth is 4 feet; the former 445 standard required 2 feet. The objective is to install the loop as far below the frost line as possible. Many provinces require safety measures when a trench is more than six feet deep, so most contractors do not exceed that depth in order to reduce costs.

Modern fences are far more resistant to grounding and often a shocking sensation is still felt on the other side of a direct ground.

Yes. As soon as there is any water being placed into the pool during the construction, a fence is needed around the pool.

All posts are set minimum 36" below the finished floor line to the top of the roof trusses in one solid, un spliced column (including gable posts) 8' on center or less, depending on door locations. 4x6 posts are used in buildings 10' high and lower, and laminated posts are used in buildings 12' and higher.

In a “ground set” there is minimal excavating done to allow for the construction of the prepared pad onto which the home is placed and blocked. In most cases this is a concrete slab. The bottom of the frame is then set to allow for a crawl space area in the case of repairs and to assist in ventilation. Site conditions, such as high water tables etc., may require a ground set. In most cases this type of home placement is less expensive than a “pit set”.

We recommend you treat polyvinyl posts the same as you would treat wood posts. If it is common and normal to cement fence posts in your area, then you should cement the vinyl posts. However, for maximum stability, we recommend posts be cemented in. Please note: while cement can reduce the life expectancy of wood, it has no negative effect on polyvinyl. This makes cementing polyvinyl posts in the ground a more viable option than for wood posts. Digger Specialties, Inc.

Generally speaking, most county codes require that trash enclosures be mounted 18 inches above ground level. It is best to consult with your local county building dept. for further details.

Posts are set 36-42" deep in concrete. In most grassy areas this is below the frost level. The concrete is poured from the bottom of the hole to within 6 inches of surface, then use native soil to top up the hole. This layer of frozen earth at the surface acts as a collar to help prevent the heaving or lifting of posts due to frost expansion.

It is inevitable that the boom will strike something during the spray season. The ideal approach would be to carry a spare sensor in the cab for emergencies. The sensor can be replaced in 15 minutes by removing two bolts and one or two cable connections. The damaged sensor should be sent to the company/distributor for repair. Frequently, only the housing will need repair, a minimal expense. NTech offers an extended 5 year service program on the sensors.

Wood that is touching the ground will rot at an accelerated rate and may cause the entire fence to heave with frost.