Determine if the cause is shade, poor drainage or poor nutrition. Undo the cause. (i.e. cut down the trees, improve the drainage and fertilize.

Answer: Perfect lawns require lots of work. As well as treating the lawn you will need to scarify regularly. Leaving the grass a bit longer say 1.5" or 35 - 40 mm minimum will also help no end.

It is therefore important that you consider a two-pronged attack based around a programme of moss controllers and aeration. The first eradicated the existing moss grwoth; the second helps prevent its immediate return.

A - Moss in a lawn is usually a cultural problem. Conditions such as too much shade, poor fertility, thatch build-up, soil compaction, and over-watering contribute to moss growth. The first step is to evaluate and correct any of these conditions. If chemical treatment is necessary for severe moss infestation, rake out as much moss as possible and apply a moss control product containing ferrous sulfate. Chemical control will be temporary unless underlying cultural conditions are corrected.

Could be one of several factors such as low pH, lack of fertility, compacted soil / poor drainage or too much shade. See one of Merrifield Garden Center's plant specialists for guidance.

Sandbur is an annual weed that can be controlled like crabgrass through an application of a pre-emergence herbicide. In addition, a new herbicide, Imazaquin, sold under the trade name of Image, can also be used to control this weed after it has started to grow. Please read and follow all label instructions.

Answer: To control weeds, you can over-seed your lawn twice a year (early spring & early fall) to help prevent weed growth. Mowing your lawn high (4-inches or more) shades out most weed seeds and prevents them from germinating, while also slowing growth (for less frequent mowing) and strengthening the immune system of the grass. Keeping your grass unstressed by providing proper light, water, and nutrients will produce a crop of very thick turf.

Prevention is always better than cure. If a Sir Walter lawn is kept in a healthy and well fertilised condition, weed eradication is rarely necessary. If in the rare circumstance weed spray is required, we suggest that you first heavily fertilise when weeds are noticed, followed by at least two mowings in a three-week period. This will usually reduce the problem to a minimum. If spraying is still required, there are several herbicides that can be used.

In the meantime, you can try the Kyoto spores available at many nurseries. You can get a tree that already has moss on it (hopefully, locally grown). You can try transplanting moss from other locations, such as a damp and shady spot on the other side of your house. You can set your pots near a bonsai that has moss growing on it and hope that the wind will carry viable spores to your trees.

If the moss build-up is slight, you can leave it. If it is severe, you can apply a solution of zinc sulphate mixed with hot water. Do not pressure wash the roof.

Our trained applicator will notify you if your lawn shows signs of disease. He'll also advise you on the best treatment. Because lawn diseases are unpredictable and treatments are so variable, there is no guarantee of results. Application of lawn

Regular fertilization helps to maintain good lawns. In western Washington, apply N-P-K fertilizers in a 3-1-2 ratio (3 Nitrogen - 1 phosphorous - 2 potassium.) Examples of fertilizers in this ratio would be 21-7-14 or 15-5-10. Sulfur enhances color and helps control some lawn disease problems.

Weed control products need certain conditions to be effective. Here are the main reasons why it may not have worked. The most common reason weed control products aren't effective is that they are applied too early in the season. For best results weeds need to actively growing with temperatures consistently above 15° C during the day and above 5° C during the night. Weeds with small leaves are difficult to control under the best conditions.

WipeOut® Total Weed & Grass Killer - Has no soil activity and will breakdown very quickly. There are no replanting restrictions. Lawn WeedOut® - Has some soil activity and takes about two to three weeks to breakdown. Lawn seed should not be planted for 3-4 weeks after using Lawn WeedOut®. Lawn WeedOut® should not be applied to newly seeded lawns until after the third mowing.

We'd love to provide information about how to glue everything to everything but there are just too many things. So we decided to focus on common household items.

For pre-existing conditions we recommend Shingle Shield Roof Cleaner, which is specifically designed to clean roofs prior to application of the roof protector strips. Other cleaning solutions may not be effective against these organisms, and may harm your roof or plants.

You may gather small quantities of branches, pine cones etc. for personal use. You may NOT gather large quantities of wood for firewood that is not to be used on site or gather other items in the forest which may affect wildlife habitat.

Moss is not fungus. Moss is the green spongy stuff that grows on the south side of trees and on the ground in shaded, damp areas. And, in some areas it also grows on roof membranes and shingles. Mosses reproduce via airborne spores. If a roof is covered with moist organic matter or soil, and if there are minerals and fixed nitrogen present in the dirt on the roof, mosses can grow from the spores that are carried there.

Horsetail control is difficult. The best management for it in lawn is constant mowing that keeps the plants down. This does leave the problem of the altered texture in the lawn where the horsetails come up, but short mowing will reduce that. In theory, if the plants are constantly mowed, they weaken. They are, however, long-lived and persistent no matter what measures are taken. There are no chemicals registered to control these weeds in a lawn.