When plants grow they use carbon dioxide from the air to make their wood. If you burn the wood the carbon is released back to the atmosphere. As long as you grow another plant/tree then a stable carbon cycle is set up. So ,the use of sustainably produced wood as a fuel does not increase the carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere.

In a word, NO. PT wood is used for it's resistance to insects and decay, but it gets these properties through the use of modern science. It contains arsenic as well as insecticides, fungicides and solvents. When burned these are released into the air in the smoke. It is not fit for man nor beast!

Wood such as oak, cherry, ash and other dense types are good to burn. Their moisture content is much lower than the softer types such as pine and cottonwood.

We cannot say exactly. 4 to 6 cords should heat most any 3-bedroom, 2,500-square-foot home in Northern Minnesota, where the temperature can drop to 40 below zero. 2 to 3 cords of wood in milder regions of the country. Many people can purchase a full year's supply of quality firewood for a Charmaster Furnace for the price of one month's normal heating bill using oil, gas or electric heat. We would burn mostly unsplit wood if the diameter is 10 inches or less.

No. Acucraft Fireplace Systems have a firebrick lining that lines the inside of the fire box. We recommend building a fire directly on the firebrick, which will continue to radiate heat after the fire has dwindled. Also, by burning directly on the firebrick, the fire burns the logs more efficiently by burning the entire log which eliminates unburned log chunks.

Wood can be burned in a smokeless zone if the appliance (i.e. the stove or boiler) has an Exemption Certificate. Companies which manufacture stoves with Exemption Certificates include Clearview, Vermont Castings, Dovre, Dunsley Yorkshire Stoves, Morso and Jotul. A full list can be found at http://www.uksmokecontrolareas.co.uk/appliances.php?country=e. Obtaining an Exemption Certificate is an expensive and lengthy process.

No. Gas fireplaces are designed to burn gas only. Burning wood would damage the fireplace and could be very dangerous.

The beauty of the Luminarium is that you get a quality fire experience without the smoke, ash, or blowing embers associated with other types of logs. Using any other type of log may create a safety hazard and will damage the unit due to excessive heat.

Not really. You don't want to simply burn wood in a ceramic cooker. You are asking for creosote deposits on the inside of the cooker. Also, you may find it very hard to regulate the temperature because the wood may choose to ignite and burn with a flame, sending the temperature sky high. If you cut down on the airflow, the flames may go out and the wood will smolder producing clouds of smoke.

No, the practice of burning CCA-treated wood is unacceptable. Burning treated wood concentrates and releases the preservative chemicals in the ash and smoke particulates. Although warning against burning treated wood is specified on the wood preservative labels, industry and stakeholder groups are working to enhance user awareness of proper handling and disposal of preservative treated wood products.

Good seasoned hard woods such as: Walnut, Hickory, Oak, Locust, Hedge Apple, Cherry, and some hard Maples are fine to burn.

Yes. There are many things to burning wood than just throwing anything into the fireplace and striking a match. First, many households items, when burned, can create toxic fumes. It is always best to burn only wood in your fireplace. You may wish to go to your local library and obtain information on the proper wood burning procedures. Second, always wear protective gloves when around the fireplace and never set anything on the hearth area - it may catch fire from radiated heat.

No, the hearth kit is designed to work with only the appropriate gas logs. Attempting this could result in injury, damage or worse. Additionally, burning wood voids the warranty of the hearth kit.

A moisture meter will accurately measure the moisture content of your wood. You can roughly check the dryness of your wood without a moisture meter by knocking two sticks together. If you hear a sharp sound, the wood is probably dry. If you hear a dull thud, the wood is not fully seasoned. Cracking and checking on the edges of a stick of firewood also indicates that the wood is seasoned and dry.

No. The intense heat of a wood fire will damage your logs, burners, grates and valves, and will void your warranty.

Your main objective is to acquire firewood that is dry and seasoned. While hardwoods generally have more heat value than softwoods, burning unseasoned hardwood produces a lot more dangerous creosote than burning seasoned softwood. First, make sure any wood you burn is adequately seasoned.

Dry, seasoned wood is best. The type of tree is not as important as moisture content. Wood must be allowed to dry for a minimum of 12 months, under cover, after being split and stacked. Popular firewood in the Northwest are: maple, alder, Douglas fir, spruce, apple and cherry. Another good fuel source is pressed fire logs, manufactured by pressurizing sawdust, as opposed to wax-based decorative logs, which have limited heating value.

There are a few differences between wood and coal burning units. Please contact us direct to disucss this at (800)750-2723.

Use seasoned hard wood. "Seasoned" wood is wood that has been dried out for at least half a year, preferably a year. It's opposite, green wood, will produce a cooler, smokier fire that's bad for your chimney. Hard woods are woods like oak, maple, beech, and ash. They burn hotter than pine, spruce, birch, or redwood. Do NOT use wood that has been painted or had finish applied. This could release toxic fumes into your home.

Most wood burning stoves and inserts are specifically designed and safety tested to burn only cordwood. Burning coal creates corrosive gases that can cause rapid deterioration of wood stoves and metal chimneys. Burning a fuel other than cordwood in your woodstove or insert will invalidate your warranty.