Chewing insect - Usually either a grasshopper or caterpillar. Damage is usually contained to a small proportion of leaves and should be ignored. The caterpillar is called an Orange Dog, and is the larval stage of the beautiful Giant Swallowtail butterfly.

Sooty Mold - Appears as a black, sooty growth on the upper side of leaves. Is harmless, but indicates that an insect was or is present (usually aphids, whiteflies or scales). Whiteflies. As these piercing-sucking insects feed on the undersides of the leaves, they secrete a sticky, clear fluid that drops onto the leaves below. Sooty mold grows upon this secretion. Sooty Mold Water or Varietal Problem. The problem of splitting fruits usually occurs in the early fall.

Usually, holes in leaves are caused by insects or insect larvae. The first step is to identify the culprit. Neat round cuts in the edges of leaves indicate leaf-cutter ants or wasps, while skeletonised leaves are caterpillar attacks. Once you have identified the little monster you can choose a means of control. Unless the attack is very severe, you can generally just let things take their course and the shrub will be fine. Occasionally, fungus can cause distinctive holes in leaves.

Leaf cutter bees cut semi-circle shaped holes in the leaves of roses. They pose no real threat to rose health, but they drive exhibitors crazy.

The state is working with the USDA and UF/IFAS to determine new management strategies for citrus diseases. Recommendations for dealing with trees suspected of having citrus canker will be available soon. For now, you should not move any citrus plant material or fruit from your property and avoid coming into contact with the suspect plant to prevent spread of the disease. Do not mail or bring samples of suspected citrus canker or greening to extension offices.

Oranges and grapefruit are highly susceptible to foot rot disease, caused by Phytophthora citropthora and P. nicotiana. Some rootstocks offer considerable resistance to that disease. So on infested land, it's important to use such a stock. Rootstock variety has some effect on the strength of flavor of the fruit, the sweetness, total yield of the tree, and cold-hardiness of the tree. Some citrus scion varieties are difficult to root from cuttings.

A:The ideal pH for a citrus tree is 6.0 to 6.5, if it's on citrus roots, or 5.5 to 6.0, if budded/grafted to Poncirus roots or one of the Poncirus hybrids (citrumelo, citrange, etc.) Ideally, you should have your soil tested. A local extension office may do it for you, or even a local college or high school with a chemistry dept. Or you can buy fairly cheap pH meters or even cheaper pH testing paper (not very accurate, but perhaps close enough).

Air layers work best with a stem thicker than a finger -- maybe thumb size. But thinner stems can be layered if you're very careful not to break them. It's easiest to work when the plant is actively putting out new growth, since the bark will "slip," meaning it will peel cleanly away from the wood. Cut a ring around the stem, cutting through the bark to the wood. Don't go deeply into the wood. You can use a knife or the blade of a pruning clipper.

Yes, they’re alive, but not in the sense that they can hurt your siding. They are dormant, or sleeping, and pose no threat to the siding other than staining it. The spore masses of the artillery fungus stick like super-glue. We have not found a way to get them off without leaving a stain or damaging the siding, especially on old dry siding. Power washing may work on brand new (only) vinyl siding that still has a shiny, oily, sheen.

Potted citrus trees can be planted almost anytime of the year. Fall and Spring are two of the better times. Since newly planted citrus trees are not as cold hardy as more mature ones, Fall planting should be done at least two (2) months before freezing temperatures can be expected.

Please do not mail or bring in samples to your county extension office. Instead, please ask them to send an agent out to examine your tree.

If it's fall time, it's okay. If the leaf should be green and it's not, more than likely it is iron chlorosis. Other possibilities are spider mites, over-watering, or diseases. Walk through our online diagnostic clinic.

Solitary leafcutter bees remove circles of leaf to build nests for their young. The harvesting does not endanger the health of the plant.

Slugs are the most likely culprits for chewing holes in hosta leaves. Slugs are most active during wet, cloudy weather in late spring and early summer. Slug baits offer easy and effective control of this pest. Sluggo is the most popular bait because it is approved for use around pets and children. Always follow the label directions.

Applying botanical insecticides, horticultural oils, and insecticidal soaps to your plants can deter hungry insects. For more detailed information, read the articles Insect Management in the Home Garden and Natural Products for Insect Pest Management. If you need help choosing the right treatment for your plants or locating the recommended products, contact your county Extension office.

Two Possibilities: Citrus Leaf Miner Damage - This insect is the maggot of a tiny fly that lays eggs into the leaves. Maggots hatch from the eggs and "mine" their way through the leaves causing them to cup and crinkle. "Squiggly" lines can also be seen in the affected leaves. This insect is not harmful to the health or fruit production of established trees. Young citrus trees may benefit from sprays of horticulture oil which interfere with the fly's ability to lay eggs into the leaf.

Answer: This is the work of the Leafcutter Bee (Megachile sidalceae). Leafcutter bees are solitary, small bees with black or gray bodies with white hair forming bands on the abdomen. Females cut out plant material from roses, ash, redbud, and other plants with smooth leaves. She uses the materials to construct cells and gathers pollen and nectar to make bee bread for the cell. She then lays eggs on the bee bread and closes the cell.

Citrus can be replanted, but must be purchased from certified nurseries that are registered with the state. Decontamination requirements have been lifted for lawn maintenance companies operating in canker quarantine areas. However, the Department encourages good sanitation practices to protect plants from harmful pests and diseases. Citrus material (trees, fruit, rootstock, leaves, potted citrus plants, etc.) should not be moved from the state without a limited permit from the USDA.

Spring is an ideal time to plant new citrus trees. Garden centers have a good supply to pick from, and the trees are ready to begin root and shoot growth. Make sure you give the new tree a sunny site and space the trees at least 12 to 15 feet apart. If you miss the spring planting season, don't worry. Container-grown trees are available year-round. They can be added to the landscape anytime.

Most patients describe minimal itching and burning for 5-15 minutes following sclerotherapy, but you will leave the office free of discomfort. You will feel the prick of the needle being inserted into the skin. However, we use the tiniest needles possible to reduce the discomfort felt by our patients. If you are very concerned about pain, please talk to Dr. Walrath. They will be more than willing to discuss some possible solutions.