Many Energy speakers have 2 sets of speaker level inputs, this is designed to allow for bi-wire or bi-amping. With the "jumpers" in place, one would connect these speakers like any other, simply by running speaker wire to the positive and negative inputs.

Bi-amping a pair of speakers basically entails adding a power amplifier to your system so that your integrated amplifier drives the tweeter units whilst the power amplifier drives the bass units. This ensures that the speakers are driven more efficiently which in turn will produce a greatly improved sound. Bi-wiring on the other hand simply means bypassing the crossover unit on the speaker so that the speaker cable goes directly into the bass and tweeter units.

There is no easy answer to this, but as a general rule for best results (less power loss) you should use the heaviest gauge wire as is practical, especially for the longer speaker runs. For short runs you could use lighter cable. But don’t let this be the weak link in your audio system.

I just removed one yesterday from the junk yard. It's the same procedure Matt D listed below. Just remove the the rear seat enough to lift the rear deck lid up around the speakers. There are three clips and three 8 mm bolts. I removed all three bolts and two clips. Then I went to the trunk and carefully pulled the speaker and amp assembly down. If you simply need to remove the speaker, that is even easier and can be done solely from the trunk. - /Bryan (91 SE), 6/16/01.

If the speaker are rated for 400 watts peak and are 8 ohms, then you can use an amp that is 400 watts (peak) per channel @ 8 ohms (an 800 watt amp). You can use a lower wattage amp, but you will be limited by the amp. You can also technically use a higher wattage amp, just don't use it a higher volumes which would drive the speaker over its wattage limit and potentially blow the speakers.

This can be a long answer, but to keep it simple; each speaker has a load resistance usually given in ohms. When you add speakers in parallel, jumping one to another, it lowers the ohms by half (i.e. - adding two 8 ohms speakers is a 4 ohm load on the amp). So back to the question; if in the amplifier specs it gives you the wattage for a certain load (Ohms), it is safe to run the amp at that level per channel.

Be sure to purchase an amp with a wattage rating that falls into the wattage rating of your speakers. In other words, if you have speakers with a wattage rating of 10 - 80 watts, be sure not to get an amp with an RMS wattage rating of more than 80-watts per channel. Of course, you must also be sure that the amp you select is powerful enough for the way you like to listen (see FAQ on BLOWING SPEAKERS). As long as you purchase a receiver that your speakers can handle, you have a good match.

Each speaker is uniquely designed, timbre matched, and seamlessly coordinated in its own system; in order to ensure the most impressive sonic attribute and true cinema experience, we strongly encourage you to mix & match only in the same series of speakers. If your order includes 5 speakers, and one subwoofer, you are entitled to receive a set discount.

First take a look at the wattage of your amplifier. Figure a minimum of 20 watts of power per pair of speakers. Divide the wattage of the amplifier by 20 watts per pair to find the maximum number of speaker pairs that can be impedance matched for the amplifier. (Example: 100 amplifier - divided by - 20 watts per room = up to 5 pair of impedance matched speakers.)

On the rear of every amplifier there are either one or multiple output jacks. The outputs vary by model, but typically will be in the form of RCA, Speakon, Balanced XLR, and Banana binding post. Simply choose the output type on your amplifier and connect it to the input on your speaker.

Dual pairs of speaker terminals not only allow for biwiring but also bi-amping. This requires dual preamp outputs or a Y-connector on a single preamp output. Two different bi-amp scenarios are possible. If you own two amplifiers of identical power output by the same maker, both scenarios can be explored. In the first, each amp drives one speaker. One channel each gets hooked up to the upper speaker terminals; the other channels drive the lower ones.

No. Using instrument cable to hook up your speakers can cause intermittent power loss, cause your amp to oscillate and damage the amp and/or your speakers. Please use 18 gauge cable or heavier (16, 14, or 12).

You can use amplifiers made by other makers, but the transitional characteristics of ECLIPSE system components, including the amplifier, are all optimised to faithfully reproduce the characteristics of the source sound. From this point of view, it is better to use an Eclipse amplifier.

There are many schools of thought on this subject. Linn for example say that more should be spent on the source (CD player, Turntable) and less on the amplification or speakers. We on the other hand tend to think that balance is best; basically spend the same on each component. By doing this if you decide to upgrade your hi-fi at any time in the future you will know that your system will always be balanced. Also by balancing your system the features on your equipment.

You need a DPDT switch. Wire it as shown in the diagram at http://aga.rru.com/FAQs/Images/par-ser-spkr.gif . Make sure you get one capable of handling the current you're likely to see in your speaker cab. I'd go with at least a 5A switch. The overall rating is what matters, not the switching rating. You should never be flipping this switch while the speakers are being played through!

BI stands for Business Intelligence . An interactive process of analyzing and exploring business data that help business users/ enterprise decision makers make better decisions. BI is any computerized process/system/sets of tools and applications used to extract and/or analyze business data. These systems place a key role in strategic planning process of the corporation.

The wire is 39 inches (1 meter) long and per MIL-W-16878 (TFE insulation). One is red, plus (+) voltage and one is black (ground).

There are two types of relays that are commonly used in 12-volt automotive applications: Single-pole Double Throw (SPDT) relays, which have 5 pins, and Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) relays, which have 4 pins. Depending on the application, you can use either of these; for remote turn-on leads (see Section 5.11), an SPST relay is fine, SPDT relays are often used in alarm installations. Make sure that you get a 12-volt relay - this specifies the voltage required to make the relay "switch.

You do need an amplifier to play the Fretlight Guitar. No sound is transmitted via the cable that connects your Fretlight to your computer. That cable allows for the computer to power and control the light system. To hear the sound from the guitar's pickups, you will need to plug it in conventionally to a guitar amplifier with a 1/4" instrument cable (not included.

While the Ruby, Little Gem, and Little Gem MkII practice amps can be used with any speakers, best results are achieved with full-size speakers intended for use with guitar amps. The amps will work well with an total impedance of 4, 8, or 16 ohms. We've tried hi-fi speakers, clock-radio speakers, and auto speakers - they just can't cut it. For me, using anything other than a speaker designed for the frequencies of an electric guitar produced sounds more like a toy than an actual amp.