Flaking is most often associated with wax contamination and/or poor cleaning prior to recoating. Peeling is usually caused by incompatible products (some pre-finished engineered floors, for example), improperly dried seal or paint or improper cleaning/abrasion before recoating.

Peeling is the final result when a paint film loses its adhesion to the substrate. Peeling may occur between coats of paint (intercoat failure), or all the paint coats may peel from the underlying substrate (total film failure).

Peeling and flaking of a new tattoo is perfectly normal. Before it actually begins to peel, the tattoo will look like it's covered with a whitish, cracking film. Then you'll see white or translucent flakes of old, dead skin start to peel off and some of the flakes may even contain some ink. Sometimes you can actually see a duplicate image of part of your tattoo peeling off - it's rather disconcerting, but it is also perfectly normal and there is no need to panic.

Note: Boards close to the ground and boards installed on chimneys are the first to become damaged. Look there first.

No. You should never wet mop your wood floor. Standing water left after wet mopping can dull your finish, damage the wood, and leave unsightly discoloring. If you happen to spill water on your floor, clean it up as quickly as possible. If massive amounts of water leak out onto the floor, such as a dishwasher that has leaked, it might damage the floor to the point where it would need to be replaced. Most homeowners insurance companies would cover the repairs needed if this were to happen.

Inspection should be done from a standing position with normal lighting. Glare, particularly from large windows, magnifies any irregularity in the floors and should not determine acceptance. No matter how hard the professional tries or how well experienced they are, there are some things you should not expect. A tabletop finish. Each piece of wood flooring sands differently depending on its grain type (plain or quartered) making it virtually impossible for a completely flat surface.

Peeling is worse than chipping. When a finish is chipping, there is some bond to the floor. When a finish is peeling, there is no bond to the floor. If after Phase 3, there is still finish left on the floor, then the floor should be sanded.

Yes, DuraTeck can be bent greater than 90 degrees without peeling or flaking. The PVD coated sheets can also be drawn or embossed (within limits based on the application) without peeling or flaking.

Preparation should be completed before applying the product. The flaking and peeling of the structure should be removed by either power washing or light sanding and any damaged or rotting surface should be replaced before applying our product.

It is very easy to clean a Pre-finished hardwood floor. Simply dust mop, sweep, or vacuum (vacuum should have rubber wheels so not to scratch the floor). Most flooring dealers also sell cleaning kits, which come with a mop as well as an approved cleaner. If you are not sure which cleaner is appropriate for your floor, contact your local dealer for assistance.

The most common cause is moisture. But blistering can also be caused by painting in direct sunlight, inadequate surface preparation, or using a low quality exterior paint.

The answer is yes, but if a room has under floor heating, it is doubly important that it be properly installed to allow for expansion and contraction. We are able to supply manufacturers' technical specifications regarding underfloor heating.

No, MAR-K oak bed wood is grooved, sanded, cut-to-size and ready for you to finish. MAR-K pine bed wood is grooved, planed, cut-to-size and ready for you to sand and finish. For suggestions on how to finish your bed wood click here. Or see our wood finishing tests for information on different finishes.

The natural characteristics of wood include the grain pattern, dark gray or black marks and knots of various sizes. They are a result of the growth process of a particular species and are influenced by sunlight, soil and climate. Minerals can appear in several forms such as a light gray streak across a board to black lines in the grain. The same holds true for grain patterns and knots.

Cupping, or "washboard". Across the width of one piece of the flooring material, the edges are high, the center is lower. Generally develops gradually. Moisture imbalance through the thickness is the only cause. The material was manufactured flat and was flat when installed. Job site or occupant provided moisture is greater on the bottom of the piece than on the top. Find the source of moisture and eliminate it.

Depending on the type of flooring, it is usually graded from clear being the best - to #2 common, know as a rustic grade. CLICK HERE for an example.

Yes, Bruce offers several suggestions. If you have a minor chip or slightdamage, we offer a color-blended filler. Our touch-up kits take care of several different issues, such as scratches and chips. If the damage is severe enough, you can have individual boards replaced.

Correctly fitted and maintained a solid wood floor will last a lifetime, but correct fitting is crucial.

Three grades relate to the floors visual appearance only and not to quality. Select is the highest grade. It is knot-free, giving floors with uniform colour and texture. These floors command the highest prices, but some people find them monotonous. The cheapest grade is Rustic, where there may be small knots and colour variations in the wood. This can make for a lively, interesting floor full of character and in no ways impairs the quality. It depends what effect you want.

With all wood floors it's just a simple question of running a damp mop over them as part of your normal house cleaning routine.