Unless the catalog has a note like "pair packaged" or "set of 3", all parts are priced individually. The only exceptions are brake pads and brake shoes, which come in axle sets (one package is enough for both front wheels or both rear wheels). See similar questions...

YES, ABSOLUTELY. There isn’t anything Carbotech can’t make when it comes to your brake pads or your brake shoes. If we don’t have or can’t get (which isn’t often) your backing plates or shoe frames just send us yours and we can clean them up and line them with any of our compounds. It’s that easy. The only thing you can’t send us is old pads and shoes that are lined with asbestos. See similar questions...

The stock pads on the Impala are very good. They stop well, don't squeak, and tend to last a long time. However, they are very expensive from GM. Also note that the replacement pads you get from GM are not the same as the original pads: they are of cheaper construction. Raybestos makes a nice set of pads for the Impala. These are what Tim Allen used on his LT5 powered SS. Most auto parts stores should stock them. Make sure you get the top of the line pads as there are several grades available. See similar questions...

Theoretically, the rotors should outlast the pads. In fact the rotors should last several sets of brake pads, but they often don?t. Excessive rotor runout, uneven rotor wear, the appearance of hard spots and/or heat damage (cracking, glazing and discoloration) can all make good rotors go bad. Unless the rotors are in like-new condition and show no grooving or wear, resurfacing is always recommended when the pads are replaced. See similar questions...

In general, we always recommend using a high-quality, semi-metallic pad. Semi-metallic pads offer premium stopping power and fade resistance. Many of the semi-metallic or hybrid pad compositions also offer very low dust and are noise free. Lastly, I can tell you this: BRAKING IS A TRADE-OFF You cannot have better braking performance with less dust and/or less rotor wear. See similar questions...

This involves the braking of molecular bonds between the pad material and the iron in the brake disc. Pads that function on this basis (typically organic pads) tend to have a high wear-rate and low resistance to high-temperature brake fade. Adherent friction is developed when a transfer-film of the same compound of the pad material is deposited as a very thin 'film' on the surface of the rotor. See similar questions...

Causing a wife-waking outburst of laughter from me, cblpo!matula (Valentine C Matula +1 614 860 2650) writes ... gt;>> Could the reason the Diesel [brake] pads last longer is because they only wear down when used to slow a fast moving vehicle (and the Diesel poses no threat in that catagory?) <<< Actually, I think it's my driving style; my BMW 732i is _lots_faster, but the front pads on it lasted 80,000 miles, plus whatever the former owner put on them. See similar questions...

clip keeping the pads firmly in place. It can come flying out if the retainers are removed too quickly. Squeeze old pads against caliper with plyers to push pistons back into caliper (to make room for new, thick pads). Prepare new pads by filing side surfaces which slide on caliper when brake pedal is pushed. (some bads have rough edges). The only tricky part is to push the pistons in to make room, and to reinstall the spring and retaining clips. They can be difficult to align propperly. See similar questions...

Yes! - Contact us regarding your return. You can view our return/refund policy by following the link at the bottom of the page. No! - LSK will never sell, distribute or provide any private consumer and customer information to any third parties. See similar questions...

Organic Streetbike Pads (i.e. "standard" compound) are the number 1 selling EBC formulation. They're made in EBC's own factory in Bristol, England. They are a Non Asbestos Organic compound featuring Dupont Kevlar? in conjunction with other high tech fibres that have come on the market. The NAO series are a superb all round value-for-money replacement for all levels of motorcycle and are still extremely popular with many riders who prefer the "feel" of organic pads. See similar questions...

One of the Galfer staff is a KLR owner, and recommends the following Galfer pads: 50/50 on/offroad: Galfer green front, part FD091G1532; FD075 sintered rear. More street: Galfer blue front, FD091G1434; rear blue FD0751434 or black FD0751052. EBC sintered pads may work a little better than stock, but can develop an occasional squeal. If you're looking for something cheaper, I've had very good luck with Parts Unlimited TufStop pads (TSRP-802 front, TSRP-786, rear). See similar questions...

Let's start by saying that ceramic brake pads have a place in the automotive industry. They were designed to be a low-dust, noise-free brake pad. They came into popularity after the discontinued use of asbestos-based brake pads. At that time, semi-metallic pads exhibited problems with higher noise and dust levels. See similar questions...

YOU WON'T STOP. In fact, you will probably blow-through the first 2 or 3 stop-lights, stop-signs and the like everytime you first get in your car and drive it. FACT. Just like other brake pads- racing pads are engineered to operate at a CERTAIN TEMPERATURE RANGE. They will not stop you for a hill of beans BEFORE they get to that temperature range. YOU WILL DESTROY YOUR ROTORS. Racing pads are a much harder compound than streetable pads. See similar questions...

GM probably makes the best stock replacement pads which will last the longest and provide adequate stopping power. However, if you're looking for improved braking ability from pads, your best bet is go with a set of carbon metallic brake pads. Performance Friction (available through Auto Zone) makes some of the best sets of these pads: Pad Type Front part#/cost Rear part#/cost -------- ---------------- --------------- Street 6234 / $39.92 4134 / $49.98 Z-rated 623Z / $95.62 413Z / $90. See similar questions...

Wilwood has a worldwide dealer network that stocks and sells replacement parts. Check your phone book for the local high performance speed, hot or race shop, or e-mail Wilwood with your location, and we will provide a referral. See similar questions...

Temperature between the pad and the disc do not normally exceed 400-450c even in heavy street use. In race use 400-600c is common on smaller cars and in Championship Cup races temps, shoot up to around 800-900c where discs will glow red or orange. Always choose a pad that is adequate for your needs. NEVER just choose a race compound because you think you are a "hot shot". Many/most race pads need "warm up" and don't become effective till 200c. See similar questions...