Did you replace all of those little missing or broken plastic pieces inside and out? Do all systems work? Windows, locks, seats and sunroof all probably at least need lubrication. I take all of mine apart, clean and relube.

To "turn" a rotor means to put it on a laith and "make it true." This is done with a special carbide cutting edge which slowly moves across the turning disk. This gives you a nice flat surface again. Cost? about $25 per rotor. Volvo now recommends new rotors if the old ones are not smooth. This is ok if you don't mind spending the $70, but one can "turn" old rotors two or three times before you need to replace them. p.s.

You can "float" your stock rotors if they're slightly warped, or if you just like the jingle bells sound they make. Use the ball end of a brake lever and a socket a little bigger than the back end of the buttons on the rotor. Put the ball end on one side, the socket on the other, and squeeze the whole contraption in a vice. Repeat equally with all the buttons, and your rotors will dangle in place.

Vented brake disks are hollow on the inside. They look like a sandwich and allow air go inside of them, therefore cooling them off. Remember, the cooler your brakes are, the better braking performance you get.

The U.S. market was denied the more efficient two-piece rotors offered in the rest of the world because BMW of North America was concerned that, if not properly maintained, the rotors presented the possibility of failing, thus creating a legal liability. However, M coupes produced for the Canadian market were equipped with the floating rotors.

Brake pads are packaged four pads to a box, enough to replace the pads on one “axle.” In other words, order one box of brake pads and you will have enough to replace the pads on the front or rear two wheels. For example, if you want to replace the front brake pads and discs on your car you would order two front brake discs and one set of front brake pads.

Causing a wife-waking outburst of laughter from me, cblpo!matula (Valentine C Matula +1 614 860 2650) writes ... gt;>> Could the reason the Diesel [brake] pads last longer is because they only wear down when used to slow a fast moving vehicle (and the Diesel poses no threat in that catagory?) <<< Actually, I think it's my driving style; my BMW 732i is _lots_faster, but the front pads on it lasted 80,000 miles, plus whatever the former owner put on them.

clip keeping the pads firmly in place. It can come flying out if the retainers are removed too quickly. Squeeze old pads against caliper with plyers to push pistons back into caliper (to make room for new, thick pads). Prepare new pads by filing side surfaces which slide on caliper when brake pedal is pushed. (some bads have rough edges). The only tricky part is to push the pistons in to make room, and to reinstall the spring and retaining clips. They can be difficult to align propperly.

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The need for longer brake hoses varies with vehicle type and lift height. However, longer brake hoses or relocating the factory hoses should be considered whenever a lift exceeds 4". Refer to the specific vehicle section for more information on your application.

Organic Streetbike Pads (i.e. "standard" compound) are the number 1 selling EBC formulation. They're made in EBC's own factory in Bristol, England. They are a Non Asbestos Organic compound featuring Dupont Kevlar? in conjunction with other high tech fibres that have come on the market. The NAO series are a superb all round value-for-money replacement for all levels of motorcycle and are still extremely popular with many riders who prefer the "feel" of organic pads.

One of the Galfer staff is a KLR owner, and recommends the following Galfer pads: 50/50 on/offroad: Galfer green front, part FD091G1532; FD075 sintered rear. More street: Galfer blue front, FD091G1434; rear blue FD0751434 or black FD0751052. EBC sintered pads may work a little better than stock, but can develop an occasional squeal. If you're looking for something cheaper, I've had very good luck with Parts Unlimited TufStop pads (TSRP-802 front, TSRP-786, rear).

GM probably makes the best stock replacement pads which will last the longest and provide adequate stopping power. However, if you're looking for improved braking ability from pads, your best bet is go with a set of carbon metallic brake pads. Performance Friction (available through Auto Zone) makes some of the best sets of these pads: Pad Type Front part#/cost Rear part#/cost -------- ---------------- --------------- Street 6234 / $39.92 4134 / $49.98 Z-rated 623Z / $95.62 413Z / $90.

Wilwood has a worldwide dealer network that stocks and sells replacement parts. Check your phone book for the local high performance speed, hot or race shop, or e-mail Wilwood with your location, and we will provide a referral.

Temperature between the pad and the disc do not normally exceed 400-450c even in heavy street use. In race use 400-600c is common on smaller cars and in Championship Cup races temps, shoot up to around 800-900c where discs will glow red or orange. Always choose a pad that is adequate for your needs. NEVER just choose a race compound because you think you are a "hot shot". Many/most race pads need "warm up" and don't become effective till 200c.