You can re-sharpen your ceramic knife by sending it back to Kyocera or by bringing it to a qualified knife shop which has a powered diamond sharpening wheel. There is a $10 shipping and handling charge and this covers up to 2 knives. Please send a check payable to Kyocera with the returned knife. Refer the the MS Word document, Kyocera Knife Re-Shapening for the appropriate form to include with you knives.. See similar questions...

These knives are made of an advanced, high-tech ceramic called zirconium oxide (also called zirconia). Zirconium oxide is extremely hard, wear resistant, and chemically inert. For the technically minded, zirconium oxide has a hardness of 8.2 mohs (vs. steel at 5-6 mohs and diamond at 10 mohs). See similar questions...

Two reasons. First, zirconium oxide is a relatively new, advanced material which costs much more than steel. Second, the U.S. government charges an unusually high import duty on advanced ceramic products. See similar questions...

There are many ways to sharpen our knives and no one way is better than any other. Actually because our knives are sharpened on one side only, people tend to think they are harder to sharpen. It is actually easier, since you are only dealing with one side. It's just different, not any more difficult. We are always asked about different sharpening systems and fixtures. Well, there are so many that we cannot be familiar with them all. See similar questions...

No, since we would be handling all of your sharpening needs you will have no reason to continue to maintain your current sharpening machines. This will not only reduce costs, for machine upkeep, but will also free up the existing space, that is currently dedicated for these machines, for other more important tasks. See similar questions...

Sharp knives are safer than dull ones because dull knives require more pressure for cutting, which can result in slipping. Sharpening knives with a sharpening steel can seem difficult at first, but it’s actually quite easy once you get the hang of it. Pull the knife down & across the sharpening steel in a slight arc, pulling the knife handle toward you. Stroke the entire blade edge from base to tip. See similar questions...

In my opinion, a sharpening steel should never be used on a laminated Japanese knife blade. The edge of a Japanese laminated knife is thin and hard, and a sharpening steel can easily chip the edge. In addition, prolonged use of a steel will eventually ruin the profile of any knife blade. In general, any Japanese laminated knife is sharper and has better edge holding qualities than any European knife. The majority of our knives come from individual makers working alone or with several helpers. See similar questions...

Yes and no, conventional sharpening steels and domestic knife sharpeners have virtually no effect on a ceramic blade especially if the edge has become chipped. Diamond sharpening steels do work, but the best option is the CATRA spiral knife sharpeners such as the CATRASHARP. These units quickly and accurately restore a worn and chipped edge to its factory condition. However they do require fitting with finer diamond wheels than the standard ones supplied originally. See similar questions...

A - This comes down to personal preference. Some players sharpen them every game while others may only sharpen them a few times per season. See similar questions...

Tests performed in EdgeCraft's laboratories demonstrated that Chef'sChoice® cutlery edges are more durable than ceramic knife edges. And, because of the inherently brittle nature of ceramic, they are prone to fail by chipping. Unlike Chef'sChoice® Trizor® cutlery, ceramic knives cannot be sharpened by any available conventional methods. See similar questions...

Ceramic is a product made from slip which is about the consistency of mud. It is pored into a mold and left to harden slightly. It is then removed from the mold and fired at a high temperature in a kiln. After the product is fired it is coated with a glaze and kiln fired again. The firing process hardens the glaze to a glass-like finish. After these processes are completed the decals (pictures) are applied to the surface and kiln-fired again. See similar questions...

Sharpening is a trick to increase the apparent sharpness of an image by increasing the contrast around areas that look like edges in a photo. There are many reasons for doing this, the most obvious of which is that judicious use of sharpening can make a photo more pleasing to the eye. Image resizing also tends to soften edges, so it is often necessary to sharpen an image after resizing. See similar questions...

Speedheater scrapers are only beveled on 1 side. The following methods can be used to sharpen the blade: Remove the blade from the handle. Place a piece of sandpaper (150 - 220 grit) on a flat surface, and rub the back (non-beveled side) of the blade in circles. This method is the simplest, but if the blade is very dull, it can take some rubbing, since you are wearing away the backside of the blade. See similar questions...

It is highly recommended to replace the blades rather than sharpening them. Once a season is a good time to do it or when dull. Sharpening the blades will reduce their balance, which will increase mower noise, vibrations and can lead to damaging the mowing motors as well as shortening the available work time for a fully charged battery pack. PowerMow.com recommends that you replace your blades at the start of every mowing season to assure a quality cut year after year. See similar questions...

Your image should be sized to 220dpi at the size you're going to print it. Zoom the image to 100% so that you can see every pixel in an area of your image. Select Filter/Sharpen/Unsharpen Mask. Adjust the sharpness parameters without over-sharpening. Typical values are 100-150%, 1-2 pixel radius, and a 0 level threshold. See similar questions...

How often you sharpen your knife and how you sharpen your knife largely depends on what you were cutting and how many times you cut with the blade. However, MIL-TAC highly recommends frequent light sharpenings and never let the blade become completely dull. This will ensure that your blade is always sharp. Dull blades are far more dangerous than sharp blades and can cause problems and even injury during use. See similar questions...

This is a really great place to be, because it means you are almost finished. If the blade is still fairly thick at the cutting edge, you might consider having it professionally sharpened the first time. If it’s not, then it’s time for a whetstone. Whetstones work best when wet, so use a light oil, or even kerosene if you are very careful, and apply oil to the coarse surface of the stone. Take a marking pen and make a line along the cutting edge. See similar questions...