Answer: Yes, ASM sprayers, hoses, guns, etc, are designed to be compatible with all of these types of fluids. There are a few other considerations that you should be aware of. Be sure that all equipment is of sufficient size and of a high enough pressure rating to work with the material that is being sprayed. Another issue to be aware of is that no matter how well a sprayer is cleaned out, some residue will remain behind.

Limewashes represent the best of both form and function. They're beautiful and breathable, making them the perfect choice for both historic and new buildings. Unlike typical modern paints, they don't trap water and they age beautifully--instead of getting shabby, they develop a lovely mellow patina over time. See similar questions...

Generally, no. If you have untreated water then you can. If there is chlorine in the water that will kill the microbes. See similar questions...

They have a less objectionable odor, which makes them good for repaints and painting in occupied areas, where solvent odor is an issue. They clean up with soap and water; there's no need to work with hazardous and/or flammable solvents, and no used solvent to dispose of afterwards. Latex paints dry faster, and can be recoated sooner; this makes them a good choice for painting in occupied areas, where someone might touch or brush up against the freshly painted surface. See similar questions...

Firstly, our sprayer surpasses hose sprayers because of its simplicity. Turn your tap on, and the sprayer is activated. No more "fighting" with your hose sprayer to get it to its target, and then wrestling it back into its hole. Secondly, our brilliantly simple sprayer design means much less likelihood of breakage or leakage with our product. In fact, there is minimal chance our sprayer will cause costly plumbing problems. See similar questions...

No, you do not. It was Bob Taylor who said, "A long time ago, some guy figured out that if you keep spraying and sanding a guitar, you can make it really shiny. We need to exhume that guy and shoot him!" While nitrocellulose lacquer has become "traditional" and a mirror-like lacquer finish is the standard, there are many other finish options including waterbased/waterborne lacquers, French polish/shellac, varnish, and various oil-based finishes like Tru Oil. See similar questions...

Solvent-based paints are less sensitive to application conditions, which means they can be applied over a wider temperature and humidity range (however, the surface must still be dry for good adhesion). Solvent-based paints have better flow and leveling characteristics, so they'll dry to a smoother finish, with fewer brush or roller marks (this advantage is reduced somewhat for low V.O.C. alkyd paints). See similar questions...

Yes. You have two choices to do this. First would be to wash the surface then sand and then clean the sanding dust off. You then apply your latex paint over the oil based paint. That process works for both interior and exterior applications. Your other option is to wash the surface and then apply a coat of a bonding primer and then topcoat. No. The particles of acrylic latex paint fuse together to form a film that remains flexible over the life of the paint. See similar questions...

We did not recommend aerosol spray oils for use with the original SCANPAN CLASSIC/ERGONOMIC surface. These oils may contain ingredients, which may carbonize at relatively low temperatures. That, in turn, may lead to an oil and carbon residue forming on the cooking surface and blocking the nonstick surface from doing its job. SCANPAN CLASSIC/ERGONOMIC NEW TEK can be used with any oils or seasoning, or without any seasoning. See similar questions...

Latex paint is a great choice for most instances, but there are still situations where a solvent-based paint may be preferable. To help decide which is best in your case, consider the following: See similar questions...

For regular use you should spray your gun only after shooting. However, if you have ever used other gun-cleaning products, it's a good idea to spray the gun both before and after shooting for the first three uses only. These three extra 'pre-use' sprays will help clean out any old residue - rust and dirt ? which may have accumulated in your gun. "Gun-Plus" is a unique formula that contains NO sticky lubricants such as oil, grease or silicon. See similar questions...

Stands for High Volume Low Pressure and used to spray paint onto the paint surface. Most HVLP spray guns are gravity feed (paint cup on top). They have taken the industry by storm. They have a much higher paint transfer efficiency rate than traditional spray guns of just 10 years ago. They produce less overspray and have less paint "bounce-back" so more paint goes onto the paint surface and less into the air -- basically less waste. See similar questions...

When it comes to HVLP spray guns, SATA guns are considered tops. DeVilbiss, Binks and Sharp also make high-quality HVLP spray guns. Accu-spray also makes a wonderful high-efficiency HVLP spray gun. See similar questions...

That's a judgment call only you can make. It really comes down to the type of work you want to do and how much you want to spend. If you're only doing occasional paint work, an inexpensive import spray gun from companies like Harbor Freight will work well and can give very good results. I've seen some quality overall paint jobs from these inexpensive HVLP spray guns. See similar questions...

It is very easy to paint and clean up using these paints without having to use turpentine or other potentially hazardous solvents. Using mineral spirits for clean-up is a more involved process and includes concerns about disposal of the hazardous solvent at the end of the painting period. The paints seem highly pigmented and have that nice buttery quality found in traditional oils. See similar questions...

Oil paints, which have been in use since the 15th century, use oil as the medium to bind the color pigments together. They were the dominant medium used until recently, when acrylics were developed (in the 1960's). Oil paints have the following characteristics: they generally are slow-drying; they tend to be richer and more luminous on the painted surface; and if applied correctly, will last many, many years. See similar questions...

Not if the emulsion is well hardened, washed and dried. If in doubt, a coat of water-based polyurethane to promote adhesion is a good idea (coat thinly to avoid streaks.) Or you can use Marshall's photo-oil paints. The unexposed areas will stay clear while the exposed areas will turn black, depending on the degree of exposure. If a toner like Polytoner is used, the unexposed areas will be clear and the exposed areas will become the selected color. See similar questions...

Latex is a milky white liquid composed of rubber particles dispersed in water. This material is whipped with air to form a foam, which is cured to make our mattresses. See similar questions...