Spring is an ideal time to plant new citrus trees. Garden centers have a good supply to pick from, and the trees are ready to begin root and shoot growth. Make sure you give the new tree a sunny site and space the trees at least 12 to 15 feet apart. If you miss the spring planting season, don't worry. Container-grown trees are available year-round. They can be added to the landscape anytime.

Potted citrus trees can be planted almost anytime of the year. Fall and Spring are two of the better times. Since newly planted citrus trees are not as cold hardy as more mature ones, Fall planting should be done at least two (2) months before freezing temperatures can be expected.

Start with what you like. If you like oranges pick a naval, blood, or Valencia. If you like grapefruit pick the white Marsh or a pink Ruby. What you really need to consider is where your citrus is going to be grown. Some are more susceptible to frost damage than others. And although there is always talk about covering citrus trees to get them through the cold nights of winter it's a lot of work.

In either early Spring or throughout the Fall. The reason is that the soil temperature is low and the tree's roots can easily acclimate to the new soil where it will live for the rest of its life without stress. It takes about 30-45 days for a tree to root-in and begin living on its own without the additional care required to sustain its life. If a drought would occur, a minimum of 25 gallons or 1" of water would be required per tree per week to keep them alive.

Most woody plants do especially well when they are set out in the fall. Serious horticulturists prefer fall plantings since it allows the plants the balance of the fall, all winter and all spring to establish their new roots before the summer's hot, dry weather. Spring and summer plantings can also work well so long as you hand-water the new plants for the first season.

A:The ideal pH for a citrus tree is 6.0 to 6.5, if it's on citrus roots, or 5.5 to 6.0, if budded/grafted to Poncirus roots or one of the Poncirus hybrids (citrumelo, citrange, etc.) Ideally, you should have your soil tested. A local extension office may do it for you, or even a local college or high school with a chemistry dept. Or you can buy fairly cheap pH meters or even cheaper pH testing paper (not very accurate, but perhaps close enough).

Most trees and shrubs do best when transplanted in the spring or fall, however I have found that with proper care you can transplant most pants just about any time. One more note about planting, a plant can be put in the ground any time of year as long as the ground is not frozen. It is the act of cutting the roots of a plant that is can kill it. A plant purchased at the nursury has already been transplanted and can be put in the ground any time as long as it gets watered.

The best spacing is about one tree in an area measuring 30 feet x 30 feet, or 50-60 mature trees per acre. Initially, a maple grower may start with a higher density of trees but will thin several times to achieve a final density of 50-60 trees per acre. The bottom 4-6 feet or tapping zone will be reduced in value by defects associated with tapping. Above this zone, the quality of the wood will not be affected by tapping.

Citrus are usually fertilized three times a year - Valentine's Day, Memorial Day and Labor Day. newly planted trees do not need fertilizer the first 1-2 years. Use Ammonium Sulfate, Ammonium Phosphate or Citrus Food fertilizer. The amount of fertilizer need per year depends on the age, the size, and the type of tree. For example, a medium-sized adult tree 5-6 years after planting needs 6.2 pounds of Ammonium Sulfate per year (split into three applications).

Thrice is nice. That's the recommendation on a bag of citrus fertilizer from Arizona's Best. And it makes sense if you think about it. First feeding comes near the end of winter which means February while the tree is somewhat dormant possibly looking a little under the weather because of a number of unexpected freezing nights so the leaves look a bit dried and discolored.

Carefully prepare a hole large enough to accommodate the roots fork over the bottom of the hole to break up any pan that may be present and incorporate some organic matter, make sure it is well rotted as fresh material can scorch the root system. We would advise staking newly planted trees even on strong rootstocks while they establish and weak rooted stock should be securely staked for life.

Yes. However, you must purchase certified citrus plants from nurseries that are registered with the state and because of devastating diseases such as citrus canker and citrus greening, we strongly recommend that residents find alternatives to planting citrus – there are many wonderful fruit trees that can be grown in your area.

The old arborist saying goes, “the best time to prune is when the pruners are sharp,” meaning that trees can be pruned at any time. This is still true for most trees, although there are some points to consider and some limited exceptions to the rule.

The choice over whether to divide large plants really depends on your growing goals and situation. You may wish to grow the plant into a larger 'specimen plant' that will produce larger and more flowers reliably, or you may want to produce divisions for trade or sale if the plant is in demand. Because most of our plants 'work by producing seed, we are very hesitant to divide them unless they fall apart at a division point when they are repotted.

Not without a permit. Please contact the South Park Ranger District in Fairplay for more information 719 836-2031.

It will depend on the grass. Warm-season grasses such as the various bermudas, zoysias and St. Augustine should be planted from April through September. May is an outstanding time, since summer's blast hasn't quite hit yet. If you plant in the summer you'll have to be much more concerned about keeping the grass moist until it can root into the ground. Cool-season grasses fescue and rye are planted in mid-September.

The best planting time for USDA hardiness zone 6 and south is the early fall; for zone 5 and north, the spring is better. (See the USDA zone map, to determine your zone. A draft version of an updated map is available here.) Loosen and remove some of the potting medium until root ends are pulled out of the mix and extended out into the soil when planted. Work soil around extended roots with your hands, packing with feet will tear roots. Most plants grow better in soils high in organic matter.

We have set up an automatic calculator on the site that makes it easy for you to enter any number of trees that you would like. In the order process when asked for the number of trees you would like to plant choose "Tree Preserve" and add your desired quantity in the box. The cost is $6. per shade, fruit or flowering tree and $7. per evergreen tree. The correct total dollar amount will appear automatically at check out.