Definitely, fertilizer toxicity can have an adverse effect on your plants directly or may cause environmental damage. Major nutrients like nitrogen, potassium and sulfur in excess will cause marginal leaf burn. Excessive levels of phosphorus, calcium and iron will interfere with the availability of other nutrients. Minor nutrients like zinc, copper, and boron will cause leaf drop if over applied.

Yes. If you plant your rose in the Fall wait until Spring to begin fertilizing. Start fertilizing with liquid fertilizer at ? strength or use fish fertilizer at full strength. If you plant in the Spring or Summer: start about one month after planting and continue monthly until August. Always make your last fertilizer application in August so that the roses may harden off for winter The second year you may use granular fertilizer sparingly or liquid fish at full strength monthly until August.

I don't think there's one "correct" answer to this one. The general rule of thumb is for Paphiopedilums to fertilize every 1 to 2 weeks at 1/2 the strength of the recommended dosage for other orchids such as Cattleya's and Phals. I haven't had any problems following that guideline and my plants grow quickly and strongly. For Phragmipediums I've ended up cutting back to 1/4 strength doses at most, as I've been developing a lot of fertilizer burn on the leaf tips recently.

The proper tool for most pruning is a sharp clean set of bypass pruners. Anvil pruners should not be used for roses as they crush the stem being cut. A saw or lopping shears may be used to cut very large canes (1/2 inch diameter or greater) All pruning cuts on canes greater than 1/4 inch diameter should be sealed with nail polish or glue to prevent cane borers from entering. Proper pruning will help keep a rose bush healthy.

Again, this is specific to the plant and the environment but generally, during the spring, summer, and fall (the growing season) use a house plant fertilizer per package directions. An excellent strength is a fertilizer comprised of a 9-6-9 ratio.

Granular fertilizers are more persistent in the soil; they are absorbed more slowly and last longer. They can be incorporated into the soil at planting or they can also be broadcast onto the surface of the soil of existing plants. Super phosphate, frequently lacking in western soils, is essential for plentiful flowers and strong root growth. Grow Power is an excellent all-purpose fertilizer especially for lawns. It should be worked into the soil when planting turf and ornamental grasses.

Orchids must be fertilized on a regular basis! For best results, use Norman~s Optimal Orchid Nutrients every other week. It is recommended to pre-water plants before applying the diluted nutrient solution if the potting media is dry.

There is some dissention about whether it is recommended or not to fertilize an extensive greenroof – I believe the answer is yes, as most German roof greening professionals recommend. Use encapsulated slow release fertilizer twice during the first year of establishment in the early spring and fall, and then yearly thereafter for the next 4 years or so.

This is a tough one to answer, because fertilization is so tremendously tied to water quality, potting medium, temperature, light and a variety of other factors. However, if you just have a few plants, and don't want to fuss around a lot learning about the intricacies of water and fertilizer, I'd simply suggest you get any reasonably balanced 'orchid' fertilizer, that is low in urea, and use it at approximately 1/4 to1/2 the label strength every other watering.

Trees often require fertilization at some point in their life span. Remember, most tree’s natural environment is the forest. There nutrients are continually recycled as leaves and other plant, and even animal material, fall and decompose on the forest floor. When you put a tree in a landscape setting it is usually deprived of these nutrients. One thing you can do is try to recreate the tree’s natural environment by providing mulch rings. See Mulches.

Answer: Almost all of the Rugosa roses are very fragrant -- and they're easy to grow. In addition to the Rugosa's the following roses are also fragrant: Cuthbert Grant and Rosa mundi. For more information about using the roses we offer, visit our online catalog. Answer: We have our favorites, of course, which biases this answer, but here's our suggested list for Zone 4: This list can be expanded, depending on your preference and favorites.

Answer: We get this question alot! I guess it's important to those of you giving roses as gifts -- you don't want it to send the wrong message! As far as we can determine, this is what the following rose colors signify: For more information on rose color, especially the names used to describe the color, visit the American Rose Society Web site.

It depends on where you live, and just how cold it gets there. In mild winter areas we generally recommend pruning back in the winter in January or February. In colder climates light pruning may be necessary to prepare you plants for cold weather insulation but the final pruning is done in the Spring after the danger of hard frost has past.

One of the most frequently asked and difficult questions to answer is how often and how much do I water my roses? On average roses need 1 to 2 inches of water every 7 to 10 days. That being said the best way to water is to develop a schedule for the specific conditions in your garden. Quantity and frequency are determined by soil texture, season, climate, exposure and the growth stage of your plants. Light (sandy) soils will need more water and frequent watering than heavy (clay) soils.

Bareroot roses are dormant plants sold without soil. Because roses are deciduous plants, they can be successfully field grown and harvested. This efficient method of mass producing roses allows the grower to produce high quality stock at much lower costs than container grown stock. Roses are harvested delivered and sold "bareroot" or without soil only during the winter season.

Deadheading is cutting off flowers as they wither or don't look as good. Old blooms left on the plant may have been pollinated and may begin to form seed pods (hips). The formation of hips requires a lot of energy from the plant and slows flower production. By preventing the formation of hips, deadheading encourages the rose bush to grow new flowers.