Both ways of insulating (inside and outside) have different advantages and disadvantages. We recommend insulating basement walls from the outside if possible. This method of insulating is more difficult to do but does save space inside the house. Insulating basement walls from the inside is very common as well though, and is generally a less expensive way to provide thermal protection.

The importance of basement insulation depends on whether the basement is heated. If you heat your basement, or if your furnace or other sources of heat are in the basement, you should insulate the basement walls to contain the heat. If not, you should insulate the basement ceiling to reduce heat loss to the basement and keep your floors warmer.

The Association has assumed the responsibility of painting the exterior walls and fences seen by the public. The inside of walls and fences is fully the responsibility of the homeowner. The Association has the responsibility of part ownership only where the Association owns the property adjacent or bordering the Wall or Fence.

Typically, it is at your advantage to have the computer side of a Mini/MicroBiscuit unit indoors and the transformer side of the All-in-oneBiscuit indoors. This will allow for easy access to the monitor, keyboard, and mouse ports inside the unit should you ever need to reconfigure the software. Also it is typically less environmentally detrimental to the unit.

YES. The floor and walls are a significant source of heat loss. An insulated floor is warmer and drier; and it has direct influence on your comfort. Putting carpets on a floor only makes it feel warmer. If you have a heated floor insulation is very much necessary, as the heat loss through the floor would be higher than 50%. This heat loss is a huge and unnecessary waste of money. Return on investment for floor insulation is very quick, mainly because of the low cost of INSTA-PANELS®.

Yes. We insulate existing walls by drilling a small hole (about the size of a quarter) through the exterior or interior of the wall, filling the wall with blown-in insulation product (either cellulose or fiberlass), and patching and priming each hole to reduce visibility.

Answer: Insulate the floor if the building is up on stilts and adding walls to close in below is impossible. This requires that you protect pipes and drains below the floor level. If you can close in the area under the building, insulating the walls will have the following advantages: Costs less to do - usually fewer sq. feet, easier to install, and eliminates having to insulate the mechanical systems.

Nansulate will provide similar thermal benefit whether applied to the exterior or interior of a wall. The main difference, is that interior applications will last approx. 10+ years, and for exterior applications which are subject to the elements, it will last approx. 5-10 years.

Yes, buildings do bring air in from the outside, but a building's mechanical ventilation system should greatly reduce the indoor concentration levels. A recent research project, at Hawthorne Elementary School in Salt Lake City, showed that indoor air quality was about three times better than outdoor air quality during inversions. In addition, there is a similar project currently being conducted at Greenville Elementary in North Logan. (News release).

Yes. The walls must be designed correctly to account for axial loads when used as a basement retaining wall. Due to the extreme horizontal pressures exerted by backfilling, thicker walls with additional vertical conrete and rebar reinforcement should be used, as specified by a qualified structural engineer. All walls below grade should be waterproofed as discussed above.

Any large gaps on the outside should be weatherproofed to keep rain out, but the inside is generally the best place to caulk to keep the heated air inside, along with any water vapor that could condense in a cold wall cavity.

A product containing Portland cement such as Porter's BLOC-LOC Waterproofing Block Filler can be used to waterproof masonry surfaces. Extreme moisture leakage, however, may require more extensive measures such as applying a vapor barrier material to the exterior surface of the walls, or contacting a certified waterproofing contractor to evaluate and repair the problem.

Yes, if you have a standard 2x4 framed wall in front of the concrete foundation. Although there is vapor barrier and insulation in these walls, our cabinets can be installed into below ground perimeter walls if care is taken to retain as much insulation value as possible between the cabinet back and the concrete. Equally important is the integrity of the vapor barrier. Use additional plastic and overlapping seams to create a recess or pocket into which the cabinet will install.

Our garage door screens have been designed to mount on the outside of your garage door, however, some customers do figure a way to mount them inside of their door. It is recommended to mount on the outside of you door to prevent any possibility of interference with the operation of your door.

A measure of the distance across the center of the tube from the outer surface for the O.D. and the inner surface for the I.D.

Of course you can. All we ask is that you fold them up as best you can and keep them in a dry place so they don't get damaged. After your event just put them in the tent so that our crews can get them.

am-cor inc. provides pre-engineered basement wall panels with are embedded in the footer and integrated structurally with the superstructure. This system is approved in all US states. Unlike sold wall basement walls, am-cor? cavity walls provide ready space for insulation and concealed services, should the owner wish to finish basement areas.

Down warms without weight. It takes 14 wool blankets to equal the temperature control of one down comforter. Each down cluster traps more air for its weight than any synthetic fiber. Every ounce of down has about two million fluffy filaments that interlock and form a protective layer filled with air that keeps warmth in and cold. Down is wonderfully resilient. You can flatten it and with a good shake it will bounce back to its original loft while providing you with natural warmth.

Unless you are finishing the attic for living space, you should insulate the attic floor to contain the heat within the living space.

We typically only need to remove one row of siding to access the wall cavities. We carefully remove a row of siding and drill a hole in each stud bay. We insert a tube into these holes and blow cellulose insulation at high density into the bays. This is known as the dense-pack method. Not only does this increase the thermal resistance of the wall, but it creates a better air barrier against unwanted air exchange between inside and out.