Although there are times when an alternative might work better, the most cost effective method of installing iron fences tends to be to set them in concrete.

All of our awnings come complete with concrete "anchors". Two 1/4" or 3/8" inch holes are drilled into the concrete for each post (with a masonry bit). The anchors provided are used to mount the post brackets directly to the concrete slab. The 3" square posts are then slid over the top of the secured post brackets and a 3/8 inch bolt, washer, & nut (provided) is used to attach the post to the bracket.

When you want to mount the fence atop your concrete pool apron, for example, you can use floor flanges on the posts. These are bolted down using lag bolts and anchors which are available at any hardware store. You'll need four 3/8" x 2" bolts per post. It is not unusual to have an angle other than a 90 degree corner. You can use a corner post or a line post, depending on the angle. Basically, anything wider than 90 degrees, use a line post. Less than 90 degrees, use a corner post.

For the do it yourselfer I would strongly recommend it. I would also level each one with a transit type level. Building pools on the firm Arizona ground as I do blocks are seldom used. But I know the soil and use them when needed. I also laser level and pack the ground several times during my pool installation. It is better as a beginner to use the blocks and make sure they are all level.

All of our Arbors come complete with concrete "anchors". 2 - 3/8" inch holes are drilled into the concrete for each post (with a masonry bit). The anchors provided are used to mount the post brackets directly to the concrete slab. The 3" square posts are then slid over the top of the secured post brackets and a 3/8 inch bolt, washer, & nut (provided) is used to attach the post to the bracket.

No. However there are options for post installation: Directly on a concrete slab, concrete slab with concrete footing or just a concrete footing. Read and follow the directions for properly installing posts. There isn't an engineering design to allow posts to be secured to a wooden deck.

This depends on many factors, including the type of material used and the climate conditions in your area (snow loads, frost, winds, etc.). The American Fence Association (AFA) recommends that you consult with an experienced local fence contractor (preferably an AFA member) who is familiar with the specifications and standards associated with fence installation.

Concrete is a commonly requested material. To be honest, we don't know much about gluing to concrete. You could check with some building sites. Cement is the adhesive that holds concrete together. It will take some research on our part but we are thinking about doing concrete. A very cool and specialized glue! It does its job then you can roll it into ball and ... well, have a ball with it. The glue that is used for "tip ins" (magazine jargon) is referred to as a Peel and Stick glue.

The American Fence Association (AFA) recommends that you consult with an experienced local fence contractor (preferably an AFA member) to ensure the type of wood you choose is compatible with the soil in your area. BACK TO TOP

All posts are set minimum 36" below the finished floor line to the top of the roof trusses in one solid, un spliced column (including gable posts) 8' on center or less, depending on door locations. 4x6 posts are used in buildings 10' high and lower, and laminated posts are used in buildings 12' and higher.

Oz-Posts™ have been tested to high levels of horizontal forces and have been found more than suitable for the majority of fencing and sign projects. A fence or sign constructed as recommended using Oz-Posts™ will be equally as strong as traditional concrete installation. A post placed in a standard 6”-8” post hole with one or two bags of concrete takes minimum of a ½ an hour to install.

The rule of thumb is that concrete should be allowed to set at a rate of 24 hours for each yard of concrete.

Yes, provided it is not too windy a day. Winds in excess of 20 mph would prevent us from holding it down with our sand bags.

Yes, provided it is not too windy a day. Winds in excess of 20 mph would prevent us from holding it down.

While we prefer for safety reasons that the bounce be placed on a level, grassy area, we also realize that this is not always possible. As such, we provide rubber mats free of charge that must be placed around the entrance to the bounce when setup on concrete or asphalt.

Yes, as long as the pool location allows you to secure all doors and windows. A ground cloth under the pool is highly recommended. Do not drag the liner across the concrete, as abrasions will cause holes. The surface must be flat, level and stable.